What weight oil are you using?
Does it idle well after a cold start?
Will your vvt come on after you drive for a while?
One thing I had done is use techstream to manually control each solenoid while idling to rule out both a faulty solenoid and to be sure I was using a decent oil weight on my built motor.
From there it was checking logs to see that I was getting bad reading from a sensor causing the vvt to come on about 15 minutes into my drive.
I never had a code thrown for this myself either.
Since I had my stock engine sitting in my garage, I just swapped all 4 sensors and the problem was fixed.

Lastly, here is a snip from a reply from James Martin when I was having this issue.

"Grab a log of it idling, and specifically watch the cam sensors and see if they move (read anything other than 0-0.1) while vvt enabled == 0. "

Ignore, multi post

I was one of the first to have catastrophic engine failure because of it; I started the registry and discussion threads. I'm on my 3rd engine. This engine reportedly did NOT have the recall work done. Bet your ass I inspected the casehalves once I got it home to look for evidence of tampering. It's been good since last May and I put it through hell when I got it back.

@Tonrogs I run a 0w-20 Royal Purple synthetic. For no reason other than I've always run it and I get a deal through my local performance shop.
I'll get a log of it idling :) I do know in my time monitoring it I haven't noticed them being over 0.1, what does that mean if they do?
I'll go for a long drive to see. So far driving around hasn't enabled it, and it idles really well. It's never had idle trouble. I have the idle set to 900 right now. I set it to 700 in a previous re-flash to troubleshoot this and saw no improvement

keep anyway idle under 900 for now, and do a bit of driving just to put oil over 35 Celsius then just let it idle and log it

https://datazap.me/u/darkpira7e/idle...?log=0&data=17

Here's a log after a 45 minute drive, idling in my driveway. VVT status still 0. interestingly enough, now an intake cam is having a hard time reading 0 to 0.1

vvt ocv duty #1 #2 are supposed to be more than 50% and no current is flowing in your ocv intake sides

Now i go to my car and reflash to force vvt enabled 0 and check the values of the ocvs in my car with vvt disabled

nope, sorry
mine do exactly the same
but then when oil reaches 32 C it activates and current flows through ocv intake

https://datazap.me/u/tommbrz/cold-start?log=0&data=25

i have no idea, hope it's not mechanical problem like something blocking oil

i just replicated involuntary your problem

after that log i did a little trip with the car until oil and coolant were warm/hot
then turned off and after 5 min i drove home

well, on the second startup the car was still super warm and vvt hasn't enabled yet

did a reflash, and a 5min trip, still vvt off

what i'll do, and you should try too, is: tomorrow when car is super cold, flash it again first then make the cold start and do NOT touch the throttle untill oil goes over 32 C.. if no problems, it should activate

the second start after a reflash is always bitchy, and now that i think about it, i never turned on again the car while still hot as a second start... I mean, it s strange but apparently i just replicated your conditions

This is not what I expected to see. Tomm, your vvt exhaust angle (1,2) fr values are reversed from Dark's. The ecutek tuning guide that I have is vague in this area. I understand that these values are in units of degrees but I don't know what 'fr' means. Are they relative to each other, or absolute?

It's as if Dark's system appears to be measuring normally but just doesn't enable. I hate not having a complete definition of the system.

i dont know, i have a 2017 car and they changed a bit the logic and also the shape of the cam plate

You guys might need to get Techstream amd check the VVT initial parameters and look for one cam that deviates from notmal reading
https://www.ft86club.com/forums/show...&postcount=337


If the intake cam deviates from avojt 60 or ghe exhaust from 90 initial by more than say 5 degrees it usually means a problem.

how hilarious it is that now my car has the same problem of his
VVT doesn t work anymore

I had a engine rebuild, I even changed the intake cam, car worked good for 10days, today i make a reset to see the values for Darkpirate after a reset and boom, vvt is now always 0
Cam intake #1 fluctuate between the 0 and never activate

I ll go to mechanic to change the oil and maybe he can see those values with the subaru ssm3

https://datazap.me/u/tommbrz/vvt?log...00-606-571-578

I was just about to suggest that, in the absence of better information, we eliminate some possibilities.

One would be to consider a jammed spool valve. It would be an ft86-first if you've discovered the issue early enough that the ecu hasn't adjusted itself out of its ability to recover.

The tip of the valve should plunge well below the face of its nearest neighbor. I have personally felt the subtle crunch of getting through something blocking it. In my case it was bank-1 intake.

edit:
omfg :bonk::popcorn: