Originally Posted by Joesurf79 (Post 3295522)

:laughabove:
So - tell me about the benefits of the remote canister vs the "meh" 2WNR if you would :) On what tires, sizes, spring rates, aero setup? Because I've had nothing but great luck and lap times with them, and they damping sweep covers a dramatic range of spring rates...

Originally Posted by Elliotw (Post 3295269)

Hello all,
I am looking into doing a suspension mod where I have some adjustablity. I have never done this type of mod before where there is an adjusting component. Last year was my first major year tracking racking up close to 500 laps during the spring/summer/fall on all stock suspension. The first adjustable mod I had in mind was either adjustable sway bars or coilovers.(something good quality as well) I went about doing some research on the forums I saw a lot of discussion talking about sway bars and how the factory setup is great and they aren't adding a lot of value from a handling perspective. This really put me off buying sway bars. So I am looking into deciding between coilovers(something nice but 1 way adjustable) or sway bars.. I don't want anything too complicated for my coilovers as it may overwhelm me in the process of dialing in the car. Hoping some of the more experience people could give me some guidance in what mod I just start with.

Driving types this BRZ will need to handle:
* 0-3 times a week on the street
* 15-20 track days a year.
* 3-8 drift days a year.

Note: a valid answer is drive more time on stock before upgrading. Dont be afraid to suggest that.

Thanks!

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering (Post 3295526)

What tires do you use?

Best first and last chassis mod is a proper alignment.

- Andrew

Originally Posted by Elliotw (Post 3295533)

I am ran 17x9 340 tw(Indy 500) tire last season. I have as proper of alignment I can get with the my setup. which is just front camber plates around -2.0. Those tires and camber plates I am running consistent times. I'm still leaving a lot on the table is my impression as @NoHaveMSG runs about 10 seconds faster then me with a ~200 tw tire and just suspension mods and a header at the same track. I've bought a new set of 240 tw(AdvanSport 105v) for next season. Note my car is supercharged about 275 whp. One thing is for sure I need to ride along a few times with @NoHaveMSG this year. :bow:

Elliot

Originally Posted by strat61caster (Post 3295514)

Would Bilstein last long enough to warrant the price difference?

Originally Posted by strat61caster (Post 3295525)

I've heard similar thoughts from others, basically they don't offer enough low speed compression and enough high speed digression in the non remote versions so the curves are 'better' in the remote canister dampers they offer. The non remotes act more linearly and produce curves that can be replicated by other dampers for the same price, sometimes less.

They're still good dampers, and I know I'm averse to remote canisters but very few solutions are 'perfect' and with $3k+ on the line people like to be picky.

Also monkey does autocross, high compression at low damper speeds is prized, no aero, 245/255 200tw 'cheater tires' on 17x9, spring rates generally range from 300#-500#

:cheers:

Edit: it feels like mcs holds back their non remote damping to sell the remotes at higher prices since other companies can achieve more compression and more digression without canisters. And to be perfectly clear this is from the perspective of hunting for the very best shock you can get and being nitpicky, the non remotes are still good and are performing above my talent level.

Originally Posted by CSG Mike (Post 3295463)

Buy 2-3 more sets of stock suspension. Swap them on every 200 laps or so, because stock dampers wear out QUICK.

Spend the rest on seat time, brake pads, tires, and maintenance.

Originally Posted by Joesurf79 (Post 3295625)

Okay, autocross speeds, spring rates/200tw. What Damper is he running that performs better?

Because on 225/40 x17 R7s (9" rim), 650# front, 700# rear, aggressive aero running road course - the 2WNRs are pretty dang smooth - IMO of course ;) Having driven my car and another similar setup on JRZs with remotes, there wasn't a hill of beans difference I could discern...

Originally Posted by fminicooper (Post 3295631)

Amazing piece of information, thanks, 200 laps are nothing.
Recalculating my maintenance and mods plan.

Originally Posted by strat61caster (Post 3295514)

Would Bilstein last long enough to warrant the price difference?

Originally Posted by CSG Mike (Post 3295564)

Unfortunately, no.

Originally Posted by Totemo_Hayai (Post 3295801)

I'm not so sure about this. My racecar has Bilstein B8s because they were on my car when I bought it and I still can't afford MCS. I don't know when they were installed, but my car has just over 100k miles so it's reasonable to assume they have at least 30k miles plus a season of racing. I'm sure there are better shocks out there but for anyone that would not be able to go out to the track after buying fancy shocks the Bilsteins will be just fine.

Originally Posted by CSG Mike (Post 3295802)

What you see if you drain the oil out of your dampers may shock you, pun intended.

Most degredation is gradual so you may not realize it until you know what signs to look for.

Originally Posted by Totemo_Hayai (Post 3295831)

If I don't realize it others won't either. All that matters is whether or not my car is competitive and drives well, regardless of what my damper oil may or may not look like.



All high performance shocks degrade and require service.