I want to use it as Daily. It wont be safer and cheaper to do A swap instead of this mods?

Once fully completed it may be more reliable / more power. But cost is about $15k minimum if you do everything 100% yourself. Most swaps never get finished, become long time projects, never run right or get everything working perfectly.

Pure automotive has some swap kits and is working on finishing up another one. I would look into those if you are going to swap. But expect it to be a long process costing at least $20k minimum since most people cant do it 100% themselves. And more if you are going to FI the swap. In the end once done it’ll probably be worth it if you can stomach the cost and work/time involved. And end up actually getting it all working properly.

A basic turbo setup good for up to 350whp can be done for about $6k if installed yourself and cheaper if you buy used. Not counting any supporting mods you may or may not want/need. Although most of those supporting mods would be similar to the supporting mods of the swap.

First place I'd start is, getting a ride in (or drive) an 86 with 350 whp (this sounds pretty close the limits of a rod failure). I heard a lot of this over in the ClubWRX forums, lots of claimed desires of X number of HP, and some who finally get there and realize "this is too much for me to handle" or "this isn't what I had in mind" or "I've invested way too much, I should've _____."


The electric turbo threads in here keep tickling my interest to learn more about them, not necessarily wanting one per say.

Agree with the above. I don't have anywhere near that power, I'm running an Edelbrock kit with headers, but I can't even imagine that power without a taller rear end at the very least. First gear in my car just lights up traction control as soon as I get on it and that is with 245 tires. I guess if you're more into highway pulls that would be a hoot but I can't imagine the engine living long.

Like it was said, it will be cheaper to do a swap if you plan to track the car and/or want 400whp/300wtq+ because then you need a built motor and a tranny swap and forced induction. For the street, at your goals, all you need is a turbo/SC kit and a clutch setup. If you want insurance then get a built motor, but it likely isn’t necessary.

Well, how much torque will stock rods hold?
In Poland turbo gt86 which I have seen have got 300hp with 310nm torque or less

It depends on where the torque is applied. At low rpms, there is less tolerance for torque because the piston speed is slower. There is a greater chance of knock/preignition/detonation too because there is less flow of clean air circulating in and exhaust gases circulating out. Oil pressures are also lower, so there is a greater risk of bearing contact.

As the piston speed increases, not only is it harder to make more torque because the flame front is chasing the piston, but the torque is applied when there is less inertia to overcome.

With that said, as it was suggested, a supercharger will build torque with RPMs, so there is less risk to the rods. Essentially, the turbo will make more torque down low, so if the peak tolerance is 250wtq down low, but the turbo stays flat, then the supercharger could hit 250wtq low and grow to 300wtq up high. Of course, a boost controller and tuner could be used to do progressive boosting. In short, the limit depends on the rpms, but in general, it is probably around 250-300wtq.

I don’t know if anyone has official rod torque numbers.
But 220wtq is pushing the top end of still being some what “safe/reliable” which is 293whp at 7k rpm.

People have bent rods at far less and not bent rods at far more. But 240wtq which is 320whp at 7k rpm is probably the highest I personally would consider going for a daily, beyond that and you are most likely seriously lower the reliability. Even 240wtq is started to get pretty “risky” but you got to weigh the pros/cons and risk/reward. Also how you drive is a huge variable.

TBH if you wanna swap the car, sell it and buy another car IMHO. It's just a complete pain in the arse and the balance of the car maybe affected which for me is the reason I bought the car.

Build it and do it right.

I am running updated rods with stock pistons (tods have been machined to fit stock pistons), after a couple of failed built motors I think this the way to go. Running stock compression, 380 bhp at the hubs and 300ft lb at the hubs. Running the HKS turbo kit. Stock trans has been ok so far but no track days yet, TBH I am expecting this to be the weak link along with hub shafts. I have looked at the Mazworks CD009 kit but as I understand it the trans tunnel will need massaging - can anyone confirm?

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Right on - if you want a project, something to do, a creation to be proud of, do a swap or some hairy turbo kit. If you want a reliable and cost effective high-powered track beast, just buy something like a C6 Z06 and call it a day.

This isn't exactly the platform for making anything beyond 300 hp, so I am curious - do you still intend to go through with looking for a GT86?

I have no qualms either way, but unless you have the knowledge, money and/or resources to make a 300+ hp GT86, why not look at other platforms?

If I change my target for 250-280hp it would be better? But can I use forged rods and make about 300 lbft torque with those power or its nnsens?

280whp /210wtq on stock 2017+ block and 93octane should be pretty reliable if installed/tuned correctly.

LS swaps have been corner balanced/weighed, and there was no penalty to weights distribution or balance. The K20/24 swap would probably be lighter or better with minimal elevation to COG. With that said, his goals are modest enough that a swap isn’t worth the cost. He probably doesn’t need a built motor, except for reliability/insurance.

The Mazworks CD009 swap requires no tunnel hammering. A 2jz/CD009 package would require hammering because the motor is moved closer to the firewall. This is not the case for the FA20.

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showt...ighlight=Cd009