DIY Wiring Joying JY-UO134N4GS-H 10.1” Head Unit - 2017 BRZ
 

First things first: credit where credit is due. 90% of the wiring and installation instructions I got from Akuma147 here: https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=111866. I also got some pin-out information from Thriller here: https://www.ft86club.com/forums/show...+unit+2017+brz

This is mostly a wiring guide for wiring a Joying aftermarket head unit into a Subaru BRZ, 2017 and newer with the universal wiring harness. Specifically, the head unit I’m installing is the Joying JY-UO134N4GS-H 10.1” head unit. If you want a detailed breakdown of how to disassemble the trim and extract the OEM head unit, Akuma147 has it detailed in his post I linked above. What I wanted to do with this post is provide a little cleaner wiring diagram than Akuma147 provided (not hating, just trying to help improve), and provide a guide for connecting the universal wiring harness from Joying. I also wanted to cover some issues and techniques that I learned along the way that will hopefully help others trying to accomplish a similar installation.

The Joying JY-UO134N4GS-H 10.1” head unit comes with two wiring harnesses: 20-pin universal harness and ISO harness. The 20-pin universal harness has only unterminated wires, and the ISO harness has an 18-pin connector with the wires terminated to the connector. The ISO harness, unfortunately, does not fit my 2017 BRZ, so I was forced to use the 20-pin universal harness that the unit came with. Later in this guide, I will scavenge a wire from the ISO harness, so keep it handy.

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Parts List

Here’s a list of parts that I used for this installation:

Axxess AX-SUB28SWC-6V Harness For 2015 & Up – to retain steering wheel controls, OEM amp, audio, reverse camera, and OEM microphone.

Note: Alternatively, you can buy two, Axxess AX-TOY28SWC Steering Wheel Controller Add-On Harness. The AX-TOY28SWC is about $7 and the AX-SUB28SWC-6V is about $25. Two AX-TOY28SWC are cheaper and gives you more wires to work with; down side is you’ll have some repeating colors. I went with the two AX-TOY28SWC (what can I say, I’m a cheapskate).

6-pin and 10-pin wiring harness, and antenna adapter. Can be found here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Axxess AX-SUBUSB2 USB Retention Harness for Select 2015-Up Subaru Vehicles – to retain integrated USB function (optional)

DROK 12v to 6v Car Power Converter – to retain reverse camera functionality. Can be found here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1



Wiring Diagram

Here is the complete wiring diagram:

https://www.ft86club.com/forums/pict...ictureid=11809



28-pin Connector

You’ll need to reconfigure the 28-pin connector to match the above diagram. This is done by releasing the locking tab that holds the pins into the connector, and remove them by inserting a small, thin piece of metal into the front slots of the connector. The slot size is kinda small, so I had to fashion a shim for this specific application. I ground down a broken lock pick to the correct size:

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To release the pins, pull back on the wire and insert the metal shim until you depress the small metal tab holding the pin in place:

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Reconfigure the 28-pin connector to match the diagram above. It should look like this:

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The colors don’t really matter except for the RCA connections on pins 26, 27, and 28.



OEM Amplifier Connection

In order for the OEM amplifier to work with the head unit, normally, you need to connect the wire labeled “AMP-CONT” on the 20-pin universal harness to pin 9 on the 28-pin connector. If this works for you, then great, do that. For me it did not work. I used my multimeter to measure the voltage coming across the AMP-CONT connection from the 20-pin harness, and there was basically zero volts. I happened to have two of the exact same head units at the time, so I connected the other one and got the same thing: OEM AMP not working, zero volts on the AMP-CONT wire. The OEM amplifier needs a 12v input for power. As a workaround, I tapped into the ACC connection to supply the necessary power to the amplifier. To ensure that the circuit is properly surge protected, I cut the orange/black AMP-CONT wire from the ISO harness, and spliced it into the connection to the ACC. I used 3M Scotchloks to make all of my connections, but if you want to make sure you have really solid connections, soldering and heat-shrinking is the way to go. The workaround for the amplifier power is illustrated in the above wiring diagram, and below here:

https://www.ft86club.com/forums/pict...ictureid=11801



OEM Microphone Connection

The Joying JY-UO134N4GS-H 10.1” head unit is not compatible out of the box with the BRZ's built-in microphone. This is because the BRZ microphone utilizes a microphone amplifier assembly located in the ceiling to the right of the microphone. This microphone amplifier requires a 5v input, but the Joying JY-UO134N4GS-H 10.1” head unit doesn't have a connection on the wiring harness that can supply a 5v power source. One option to get this 5v input would be to buy a DROK 12v to 5v converter and connect it to the ACC connection. The other option is to tap the 5v power source on one of the built-in USB ports on the Joying head unit. I went with tapping the USB port because it was the cheaper option (like I said, I'm a cheapskate), and doesn't require an additional converter.

To start, you need a cable with a USB type A male connector on at least one side. Below is the wiring for a standard USB cable:

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If the cable you're using doesn't have the white and green wires, that means it's a power-only cable with no data connectivity. This isn't an issue since you won't be using the data anyway. Using the head unit wiring diagram above, configure the 28-pin connector: USB red to pin 4, USB black to ground.

Next, you need to splice a 3.5mm headphone connection into the 28-pin connector to route the audio from the OEM microphone to the head unit. I cut and spliced the microphone cable that came with the head unit to do this. The Joying head unit uses a 3.5mm mono (tip/sleeve) microphone input, so if you're using a 3.5mm stereo jack (tip/ring/sleeve) the ring wire is unused. On a 3.5mm cable, the sleeve connection is the braided, metallic mesh that surrounds the internal wire(s). Carefully un-braid this mesh, and twist it to form a single wire that can be spliced. Configure the 28-pin connector as follows: 3.5mm jack tip to pin 5, 3.5mm jack sleeve (shown as "ground" in diagram) to ground.

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Plug the modified USB cable into a free port on the head unit (if you don't have a free port, you may need to buy a USB hub), and 3.5mm jack into the head unit. Once you've supplied power and connected the audio input, your OEM microphone should work again. My anicdotal testing (calling my wife while driving 70mph down the interstate), shows there is no static or attenuation of the signal and sounds just as clear as before.

Antenna Connection

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That's about all I've got. Please let me know if I missed something. Hope this helps.

This is a life saver. I wish I found this months ago, rather than various other posts/sources (many of which were posted after this thread!). No idea why Google refused to surface this then, but is doing so now after so much frustration.

Thank you!