The ultimate track frs/brz/86 FI system
 

I was reading through the JRSC or Edelbrock thread where it is being discussed which option is better for a daily/track car. My question is; considering all the forced induction options; if you were to build a track only twin, what forced induction system would you use and why? Engine swaps are not allowed.

jrsc
Cooling > torque that goes away when it's hot

Edelbrock, ran perfect last season and I am not gentle with my car. Would like to pull some more power out of her next season if I don't sell the BRZ. What plans do you have?

Maybe something in the spring if my work bonus is what I think it will be. But I like doing research on these things before I pull the trigger. I am leaning towards Edelbrock bc of your setup. I read through the entire Edlebrock owners thread and it seems perfect. But I want to look more into other options. I am really interested in reliability and sustainability on 20-30min runs.

I edited the OP to say "all forced induction options". Not just between edelbrock and Jackson Racing

I went JRSC C30 w/o e85. It's been a reliable DD and DE setup for 20k miles and counting.

This video by DSport on youtube compares several FI kits on track:

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=84hjcG1VrZc"]link[/ame]


The turbo kits appear to be faster than the superchargers.

Odd they didnt test the JRSC kit.

They did test the Vortech, though. Since they are both centrifugal they should perform relatively similarly.

What they didn't show is coolant/oil temperatures after a 20-30min session, supporting modifications and system reliability after time. Which is why I asked this question. I figure if anyone is going to give me true track tested reliability results it would be the forum.

As far as oil/coolant temp: never saw my coolant exceed 200 and oil went as high as 211.
This is with my Edelbrock SC, Koyo radiator. JR oil cooler and I'm running water only in my system. No catch can. This is at the NYST trying to outrun Jordan in his M3 so I was on it the whole time. I will say that fuel mileage is terrible compared to N/A but to be expected.

Reliability wise you know the story. It had been fantastic. It does smoke a little when I start it after sitting for a while but that burns off and then nothing. It consumes no oil. I put 1,623 track miles on it last season. 21,xxx total miles (over 3/4 of that is on track)

On my setup, I have the JR oilcooler kit and stock rad. Temps have not exceeded 260 for oil and 225 for coolant. I dont use hood venting or non stock ducting. This was on a 98-100 degree day

I was asking one of the 86 teams that are extremely successful in endurance racing what their big secret to their reliability was and it was a sub 115c oil temp which is 239f.

Same choice, I don't see a ton of well put together turbo kits being abused by track rats on this platform which means there's a chance you'll be troubleshooting. I'm sure there are reliable turbo builds out there, but they are unquestionably in the minority. imho track car with FI to me means you want more power with maximum seat time and minimal down time, take the solution that's proven even if it's not the fastest. More power than what the tuned superchargers can safely make means building the engine which is not cheap on this power plant and you get into motor swap costs or just buying a car that's faster like a pony car, Corvette, M, etc.

If it was to be used at all daily and back roads, I'm thinking Edelbrock for mine because I won't be too upset if I heat soak and lose some time on the rare track day I end up at and the low end torque would be nice for autocross and Street driving.

If you're chasing speed/$ then yes turbo all the way.

Unfortunately, the centrifugal units are fundamentally different, and the results quite different.

I think the real issue is that nearly everyone tries to spend the absolute bare minimum possible. I don't care that they always claim "the buy quality" or "no expense spared". At the end of the day, the vast majority of these turbo builds ignore best practices and cut a lot of corners. With a SC, it's much more simplified, with less potential corners to cut.

Most people freak out when I say my powertrain (turbo setup and supporting mods), costs about 13.5k to replicate, before labor. "that's not worth it".

Well, 2 years later, ~70 events boosted (over 130 total on the car), several championships, and many lap records later, I'm still going on my original engine.

The reality is that a supercharger can make the same power level I make without turbo lag, for much less money. A turbo, while much more complex with more points of failure, is more efficient and is easier on the engine for the same level of output, provided proper directed tuning, while requiring a larger up-front investment.


Going back to that larger up-front investment, I'm still on my first set of pads and rotors on my BBK... and it went on Nov 2018. This post is being written Dec 2019.

Sell the car:confused0068::confused0068: You have one of the most bad a**st car in the club.

I would think the centrifugal would be great. Less complication and ease of access, less lines running to and fro....turbo feels great but as Mike said, there's just so much that goes into a solid build that doesn't have leak prone setup or an unresponsive charge piping setup.. extra places for the exhaust to leak or crack, much more heat generated, etc.

I wonder how the Sprinted 330 would do? I've ridden in an intercooled 210 car and it felt great

I'm curious what are all the supporting mods you have? I'd like to know what it actually takes to build a reliable turbo setup.

4700 GReddy turbo kit
950 JDL intercooler upgrade
990 GReddy oil cooler
870 CSG ceramic on all new piping
Thermal dispersant
200 DEI wrap on all new exhaust piping area
200 DEI turbo blanket on turbo
45 Cool tape on all line-of-sight plastic surfaces
180 reflective thermal wrap on all line-of-sight lines and wiring
200 CSG fan shroud
450 CSG SPAL fan setup w/ relay
330 Trackspec hood louvers
99 JR MAP sensor
745 DT ff kit w/ MK1+ upgrade
350 Injectors
190 Fuel pump
400 custom shrouding (material cost only)
1660 CSG spec OS Giken clutch
550 CSG Ecutek tune (cost listed is for e-tune, my car was dyno tuned with many, many revisions, and my personal tune cost is thousands)
1050 DSS axles

14159

Whoops it adds up to a bit more than I thought.

*edit*

Forgot:

309 JDL bash bar

14418

I should add, having done this exact build for my roommate with some minor changes from what I've learned, I'd say I can make a few further changes to make the build even better with minimal cost changes.

Harrop supercharger seems to be the best kit. Lots of guys running it with very few issues on track!

The Harrop and Edelbrock hit are high on my list. I like the packaging of the kits. No huge FMIC or piping. Anyone have any information on the Harrop support system in the States?

The name of the game appears to be heat management #1. :w00t:

Contact The Racers Line in Concord California. He is the west coast dealer and has installed more of them than anyone. Also Harrop is opening a warehouse in Ohio.

jrsc. with all the research csg and speed academy have behind it, its a no brainer.

100% correct. Heat is the enemy. I also mitigate heat in other areas of the car outside of the engine bay as well, which I 100% believe contributes to the longevity of my car and its components. Nothing lasts forever, but it does significantly extend the lives of wear and tear items. Front loading the cost makes long term upkeep exponentially cheaper, not to mention prevent wasted track time from unwanted failures, etc.

Ptuning turbo kit would be my choice...I had the GT3076R kit at 330whp around 12psi.
Many different turbo options, efficient heat management and well engineered.
Check it out!

https://www.ptuning.com/ptuning-fr-s...p-tbk-15000-v2

Both are solid kits. You can't go wrong with either. The JRSC seems to be more proven on the track but the eddlebrock will be better for daily driving. Slient with no SC wine and will have a better tq curve.

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