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OP, I live in the Northeast and initially my BRZ was my daily. Once I put AP racing brakes and Jackson racing oil cooler, and some suspension parts I realized it was just not feasible as a daily driver.
With the oil cooler it never got up to temp on the street unless I drove it really hard. And it would cool off so fast even if I did. I would drive one gear lower than normal just to keep RPM up and some heat in the oil. And running A/C in the summer also blew air over my cooler and cooled oil. Even with a cardboard over it was still running low temps on the street. Anyway, I was lucky enough to have a second car so I just retired the BRZ from DD use and only used it if I wanted to go for spirited drives and track days. I looked into, but never did, some people put a valve in line with the oil cooler and can block off flow that way when they don't want to use it. Also Jackson racing came out with the radiator+oil cooler combo later on which I think would have been better for my useage. That is probably something you should look into. And maybe a grill block if you see really low temps. |
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I have no clue how you can drive this car for 25 hours without getting misfires. My AFR's aren't too outrageous, and on E85 is about 108 Octane. Perhaps my misfires are a function of still being too aggressive on the tune for power. My car is a super-sprint car, so need every last pony I can get.....hmmmm |
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My T4 car has a 55mm restrictor plate on stock engine with an OEM header (no cat) and it very safely made 188whp on 92 octane. Without the restrictor I would easily make 195+ on pump gas with a safe tune for endurance racing. It seems like a waste of money to run 100 octane ($13/gallon) if making the same power you would on pump gas. The only thing I can think of that would justify the 4x extra fuel cost is that they tuned lean for economy like 13.5:1. Considering how cold it was there and they were still close to 240f with a cooler suggests they were running lean because on a 90+ day I run 240-250f oil temps while in a draft but with 12.5:1 afr. I definitely would like to know more. <240f temps with 50wt oil must have had plenty of oil pressure for sure, >10psi/1k rpms I imagine. Quote:
With that being said, they may have done what I did on my 2013 FRS - change out the harness and coil packs to 2015 parts. I also have heat shields in place. While the car is in motion there's little heat soak on those coils due to how much air is flowing through the engine bay (and how cold that air was). The heat soak that's the most harmful is when the car is parked; when cars with headers (no shields) are run hard on a hot day then parked with the hood closed. After I come off track I leave the fans running for 10 minutes and pop the hood as well. |
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From the Toyota Endurance team Re longevity on the track Oil cooler 100 Octane 5-50 Conservative AFR Oil temp sub 240 So no, this wasn't an assumption. I'm sure there are several unmentioned factors however this was their response. |
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Good to know. Well, I just found out that my '15 actually was the early model that had the "old" '13-14 setup. I thought all '15 models were updated. I was wrong, they were not. So I am now going to upgrade to the "new" harness and coils, and add a bunch of heat shielding (headers are already dual ceramic coated). Also got my track-box so I can flip on peddle dance mode and fans with a switch, something I haven't been able to do until now. Yeah, thought about adding a diff cooler too, but I'm running at most three 15-20 min sprint races/sessions a day, with a bigger cover (about .75L extra fluid), so that should be fine for 4-6 track days before needing to be changed, and that's the heavy duty 80W250 Giken fluid. I'm interested to see what it looks like after about 5-6 days on track. |
Thank you for the excellent info. I only intend to track my car 3-4 times a year and each outing with 60-70 actual on track miles. I think I will run a X-40W oil and just go from there.
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