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I second this. I'm running 245 and it doesn't feel light and quick like it did stock but I didn't want to run staggered and even with the 245's I can light up third gear (FI).
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Like others said, the wider tire will make the car feel heavier and numb on the street.
However, when you push on the car a bit, it will pay dividends (if you've chosen your parts well). ...and all this is assuming everything is tight and aligned properly. |
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Also, if the wheel is turned at all, it'll be much easier to light up the tires as well versus trying to go straight. |
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It is weird seeing someone praise the Falkens, especially for how they put down power.
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What spring rate?
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Running FI turbo 200kw+ i think it might have something to do with the suspension being soft as I made it stiffer by turning the knob at the top of the structs on the front and back clockwise to the stiffest setting and now it's a tiny bit better Quote:
https://i.imgur.com/AdcdsNG.jpg |
csol: in future i advise to whenever you do alignment, to ask for printout of it. Only knowing camber/toe numbers others may suggest with more certainty, if certain handling issue is from that or not. Also knowing what alignment before, simplifies doing planned changes to handling from different alignment. Printout also adds some extra QA to suspension shop work :).
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18's are boat anchors. That is what happens.
Grip is compound dependant, not size dependant. Unless you are racing, it's silly to use such large tires and wheels. |
18s aren't always boat anchors. Some are reasonably light and it's not too hard to find an 18x8 lighter than stock. But I do think too many people go to 18x9.5s on this car (may not be the issue here).
Either way for this case, you've got to get your alignment numbers and should know your spring rates as well. Hard to help without that. - Andrew |
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