Intermittent will not start
 

2014 FR-S automatic.

I've had issues where my instrument panel lights up fine and the car will not crank at all.

First time, at a car wash nearby, they brought a jump start pack out and it fired right up.

Second time, at work, would not crank a bit at lunch. A couple hours later, everything was fine.

Just replaced battery after 5 year old one tested "need to replace". Had a spark while cranking battery hold down. Placed on battery charger for a few minutes until 100%. Instrument panel lights, windows will not work, clock doesn't come on. Zero activity when trying to start. Slight unidentified whine from engine compartment when key is halfway to ignition point (instrument panel lit up).

Car is in park. Tried with two different key fobs. The hell is going on?

:sigh:

What's the last thing you did to the car before it started messing up?

You might check to make sure the battery terminals are clean and the battery cables are tight.

I'd suggest you check the ground for the battery cable (where it bolts to the engine/frame).

Check the cable at the starter to make sure it is grounded good.

Maybe the "start switch" on the auto shift lever is acting up. Maybe try jiggling the shift lever when trying to start?

humfrz

Same thing happened to me when I changed my battery a couple years ago. It was probably -20 outside so I didn't tighten the battery clamp down enough because frozen fingers. Outside that, everything else Mr humfrz suggested.

Missing from @humfrz suggestions of putting the cart infront of the horse?

Sounds like the same issue I had with my old BMW. Loose battery connection.

Yes, and ALWAYS remember to set the spark before you start cranking - ;)


humfrz

I got lost at the bold text, could you please rephrase that?

Just recently, I had very similar issues to yours, and in my case, my negative terminal was pretty corroded. Bought a cleaning kit and cleaned both the post and the terminal. Haven't had any issues starting my car ever since.

Like others have said, check your grounds, especially if you've disconnected your battery for any reason.

Does the fact that the instrument clusters light up rule out a grounding issue, or a loose connection? Everything seems to be pretty tight.

Does it seem strange to anyone else that I get no effort from the windows, and the clock doesn't come on?

While I used a very small socket wrench when cranking down the clamp, it contacted the positive terminal and the clamp at the same time, which is when the spark was thrown, which surprised me. Is it possible that there is a blown fuse which could be responsible for this issue?

I bought an extended warranty on this certified pre-owned vehicle. I have a call out to the dealer to see if it will do me any good, if they ever call me back. Anybody think it will, or should I just take it to the excellent local shop?

Also, I considered trying to change the battery on the key; would that do anything for not sensing the chip? Problem is, when I start to do it all the buttons want to fall off the f***ing thing, and I'm afraid I'll make things even worse. Is it a CR2025?

I actually last weekend opened my hood and found my terminals having some corrosion, little bit of work with a wire brush and I think I got the bulk of it off.

I recommend that everyone use some dielectric grease, and coat the terminals and connectors and any exposed wires in the engine bay to help combat corrosion. I never had an issue for years until the J02 recall where it all got wiped clean for the job and I was too lazy to re apply and about 7 months later I started seeing corrosion. After cleaning my terminals and connectors I caked it all up in a healthy layer of dielectric grease. It is good stuff that does help.

My terminals look immaculate, but thanks.