18x9.5 +38 57xtc help
 

I bought these rays online and the site I got them from said they’d fit a stock frs. I took them to a tire shop and they set one of the rims on the hub and it stuck out Pretty badly and was touching the spring perch. I don’t wanna return them so I wanna know what mods do I need to do if I wanted to achieve no poking or rubbing. Please help thank you, Rays Gram Lights 57xtc 18x9.5 +38

:cry:

Are you lowered? Those wheels should just fit with out touching the spring perch. A 18x9.5" +38 wheel, When on stock suspension, normally fits with a 235/40/18 without rubbing.

First, I would try a couple 3mm slip-on style spacers. (just on the front) The rear will be fine. This should make them not hit the spring perch.

If not, then I would either get extended studs+ thicker spacers for the front or a set of coilovers. (depending on your budget) With coils, you can fit a 255/35/18 all around.

No I’m not lowered but if I get coils with there still be a wheel poke ?

Yup, you bought 9.5" wide wheels. That is what they look like without tires and raised up on a jack.

Once you get tires on them and add -1.5 camber in the front minimum, they will look good. Tough, You will probably want around -3 front camber and -2 rear camber. Coils and LCA will give you this much.

Thanks for the help Leo! Would I be good with just coils and new tires? Idk if could afford LCA’s as well atm I just want to eliminate that poke

Yes. (Most) Coils have a smaller spring diameter than the OEM springs. This gives the wheel more inner clearance; allowing the top of the wheel to tuck under the fender by adding negative camber. (Most) Coils come with camber plates for the front that allow you to make this adjustment.

I would get 245/35/18 or 255/35/18 all around. Depending on the look you are going for and the budget you have.

You will get around -2 rear natural camber from lowering. You really don't need LCA for around a 1" drop. Past that you may get uneven (from side to side) enough rear camber that you would want LCA to even it out.

Good Luck!

Most, but not all. If raceseng cascam spring perch compatibility list of any indicator, Bilstein B6/B8/PSS B14/PSS B16 & Koni-s are with OE diameter like springs. Same with camberplates in set, seeing often even for mid-budget ones not including them by choice for NVH reasons and/or to cheapen costs down. Always worth checking first all the details about intended coilover set.

Thanks! :cheers: Great info! :thanks:

coilovers. adjust camber to -2. you'll be good. i run 18x9.5 rpf1 with 255/35 tires and i have no issues since i run ground control coilovers and -3.5 camber.

Will tein flex z be good?

From googled up for tein flex-z here, "Spring ID (F)70mm Spring ID (R)70mm" (vs OE 90mm, so supposedly +10mm (diameter/2) spring clearance). They include also own front camberplates in set.

Some info to consider...
Flex Z's are some of the least expensive coils on most people's list. They are throw away coils, not re- buildable. All the Tein's that cost more are rebuildable. The approx. life expectancy of coils (if properly set up and not abused) is 50k miles.

I bought coils that could be re-built when one (or more) needs factory serviced.

Leonardo: i'd word it differently. What one will miss in Flex Z - "revalving", changing damping/rebound properties if one wishes to customize differently what there is stock.
While one cannot "rebuild" original purchased flex Z shocks, in term of restoring their performance like new, due flex-z being designed as unserviceable sealed construction for cost savings, one can get same result by simply buying new "inserts" (minus camberplates and other reusable parts that are not wearing by mileage). And if anything, i somewhat like this approach, as it can reduce car's downtime, as one can preorder/buy them in advance, or buy spares, instead of removing them, if one has installing other shocks (eg. stock), or leaving car undrivable, then ship them for servicing, waiting for turnaround, and only then when received back, one can reinstall rebuilded ones back and car - made drivable again (if no other shocks for temporary use around).