Ticking/rattling after engine install, now won't turn over?
 

Had a new engine installed last week, never noticed anything for the first 100 or so miles the first day (trip to Orlando). On the way back something like 220 miles after the install I started hearing a tapping/rattling during acceleration, ONLY DURING ACCELERATION, as soon as I let off the gas it stopped. When the car was in park and idling it would also tick if you really gassed it.

On a couple startups there was a single single knock, but everything would continue on just fine(save for the ticking/rattling).
For the next 600(?) Miles the tapping continued, didn't take the car above 2500 RPM. Mpg was fine, I was averaging around 35 before everything went sideways.

Sunday evening I parked on a sloped driveway and as i pulled in the rattling was pretty intense for the first time while in park and wasn't giving it gas. I was at my destination so I didn't really think anything of it unless there was an issue when I was leaving. When I left there was no rattle or tapping at all anymore. Started the car about ten(?) Separate times between then and this evening, put on another 200 or so miles and still no rattles.

Leaving the store today I made a u turn and the rattles started almost immediately(within 30ft?) this time doing it even when not under load, about two minutes or so later they got pretty fierce, it sounded like something broke in the engine bay. Pulled over, threw it in park and you could still hear some type of rattling, recorded a video of it (So when I figure out how to add I'll post it). One of the pulleys is losing its mind(assuming its the tensioner) not sure if that was the ticking and tapping the whole time.

During the one startup I attempted after all of this the car gives off a sound like a tire stuck in gravel/grinding(as if the starter isn't catching)?

Sorry it's so long, wanted to add as much detail as possible.

Ticking video @ idle, when rpms are revved(taken a week ago)
https://youtu.be/I2Mopybd9uA

Louder rattle occurring even at idle(taken two days ago)
https://youtu.be/BMorePYHrvM

Grinding/whirring on attempted start(Taken after the loud rattle started and I pulled over)
https://youtu.be/FmIdrsUA9dk

hmmm......my computer isn't hearing any sounds from your video.

Is the engine under warranty?

I'd suggest you take it back to whoever installed the engine and ask them to fix it.

It could be a lot of things. If the tension pulley is acting up, I'd suggest you start there.

I hope you get it sorted out.


humfrz

you went over 1,000 miles with a noise on a newly installed motor?!?

take it back to whoever installed it, but don't be shocked if they say the damage was caused by running it for so long with the issue and they won't cover it.

Thanks for pointing that out, not sure why the video's don't have sound, i'll try and figure that out. It's at the shop now.

https://www.ft86club.com/forums/show...15#post3204815
Her noise is really similar to my own, she had a rattling due to something not being set correctly and her flexplate(flywheel?) being damaged?
https://www.lynnmichellephoto.com/Vi...z8/i-QKsGs3n/A
However now mine is at the point where it just won't turn over. Would damage to the flexplate keep the car from starting and give off a grinding sound on start? It sounds super similar to when my much older camaro's starter was going and it would sound like it was just spinning and whirring.

I'm not saying I'm not stupid :bonk:, but I took it back as soon as the noise started and we couldn't determine the cause, it not happening for the first 200 or so miles made me feel it might've been something missed during installation. It going away ENTIRELY made me feel even better since...it was gone.
The noise happened for probably 250-750, and The driving was basically 100 miles each way on a highway, never under a heavy load and performance was fine. Didn't really seem to be a cause to worry.
Whole situation trying to get this resolved after the valve spring has been a nightmare for 2 months so i was pretty ready to believe everything was good(that and it was a span of 4 days).

Well, keep us posted.


humfrz

Heat shield someplace.

Videos with sound

Ticking video @ idle, when rpms are revved(taken a week ago)
https://youtu.be/I2Mopybd9uA

Louder rattle occurring even at idle(taken two days ago)
https://youtu.be/BMorePYHrvM

Grinding/whirring on attempted start(Taken after the loud rattle started and I pulled over)
https://youtu.be/FmIdrsUA9dk

Yep, it sounds like there is a problem with the flexplate or with the starter itself. Time for an operation - :(

humfrz

That sounds like a good place for it. I have a feeling there is more than one thing wrong with that engine.

Let us know what the shop finds out.

Good luck.


humfrz

Oh that ain't no heat shield! Don't know what it is but it doesn't sound good.

To be honest I thought that was a joke :laughabove: I was like "...Normally Tcoat's so helpful....thanks...."

Could be throw out bearing or the shaft it rides on wasn't cleaned properly. Did they change your clutch bearing during the install?

From your original description I thought it was just a heat shield since I had the exact same thing and that was all it is.
On a second listen of the first video it could be an exhaust leak vibrating a gasket.
Not sure what the others could be.

It's an automatic.

Yeah I originally thought it might have been an exhaust leak as well, but he checked around the exhaust for any leaks and couldn't find any. That and from what I can tell an exhaust leak would affect mpg and wouldn't cause the issue of it not turning over any longer, right? I was rockin a nice 35mpg with all the highway driving I'd been doing.

Could have no impact on mileage. Check where the header bolts to the block.
You may have a couple of unrelated issues going on so it would not be your starter noise.

I really don't think these are all unrelated, the ticking/rattle was gone for like a day and a half, then I pulled a u turn, it came back with a vengeance, and then the car went kaput.
Just stopped by the shop and we tried turning it over, sounds like the starters just not engaging. I'm betting when it's cracked open something got damaged in there and thats what I heard break off.

Might be problem with the automatic transmission pump, there have been reported noise issues with those.

Sounds like a loose/damaged flex plate. Probably took out some other stuff after being driven that way for so long. :(


That first video with the sound under acceleration is a real tell. Something's getting tweaked out of line and colliding with the block or bell housing.

:slap: pay attention!

:D


humfrz

Flexplate broke, replaced that and the torque converter. Everything was great for about 3 days but unfortunately now the rattling/tick is bacl. Not as bad as before(yet?), made no sound at all for about 240-280~ or so miles(about the same as last time). Back in the shop now. Any idea's for what could cause it? Original diagnosis was the flexplate just had pre-existing damage that wasn't noticed.
https://youtu.be/OMXnsQXdop0 video of the rattling from inside of the car after a cold start. The rattle is occuring anytime I move it out of park, but also happens on first start up.


https://www.ft86club.com/forums/show...73#post3208473

I wish I knew what actually happened in this situation, because it sounds like the same exact thing as mine.


Unfortunately set pins doesn't mean much to me.

Something is tweaked. Gotta find a shop that knows how to use a dial indicator to look for runout. Don't drive it like that because you're just killing your engine and transmission with that misalignment.

Dropped it off at the shopas soon as the noise was happening again.
Flexplate cracked again, thinks I could have a bad transmission, or unbalanced crank. Also it was noticed that dowel pins were missing. From what I can tell from my limited google-ese, they're to align the tranny to the motor, I would imagine they would also limit the play going on.

Missing guide pins are the root cause of your issue. Shame on the mechanics first for losing them, and then subsequently ignoring their absence. That's day-1 shit.

F

To be faaiiirrrr it's a really reputable and popular shop, the two dowel pins are supposed to be in the engine from my understanding and not come out. For whatever reason it seems like a crapshoot of whether they come out during the removal and stay in the transmission I guess. He didn't lose them, the motor came without them in. These aren't the pins that would go on a flywheel, they're literally pressed into the engine block.

You're being nice. Any mech with a lick of experience knows that there are always two guide pins. That's either a rookie mistake, or no fucks given.


They fall out all the time. It's a thing.

Yeah it's a toss up wether they stick to the engine or trans when you separate both. Whenever I replace an engine or trans for a used unit, there can be two, one or none at all, and yeah it's pretty important to have them in.

I'm surprised a mechanic would forget them since they make mating the engine to the trans way easier by lining everything up. You align those and the two big puzzle pieces just snap together and every bolt hole lines up perfect. Would be a pain without those.

Btw, I'm not sure if I'd be confident in that engine anymore, if the transmission was misaligned enough to break the flex plate, it probably put a lot of stress on the rear most crank bearing especially during startup with no lubrication. I wouldn't be surprised if the rear main was scored from having the crank wedged off axis.