Oh, forgot to ask.

Does the Supra come with the Toyota clock?
Did the BMW dash reject it and spit it out?

-Keep it NA I
-Keep the port and direct injection methods
-Taller 6th gear
-If the HVAC would actually stay closed when it's off. Under WOT, the car gets pretty toasty... Especially my feet.
-UEL headers but that's probably never coming back
-Higher strength steel usage to reduce weight

All in all, I'm pretty happy with the current version. Probably an unpopular opinion but I wouldn't care if they kept the 2.0L (which I think they'll do) -- so long as it's accompanied by more weight savings.

Push the cabin recirculate button even when it is off. It will stay closed then.

I dunno.. I'd say needing a roll bar and having to pass broomstick to track on many tracks is a pretty big compromise for a street/track dual use car.

1) More Torque - At least 100 ft lbs more (Turbo or more displacement)
2) 1980s called, they want their interior back.
3) Made in the Toyota Factory with better fit and finish

More expensive so fewer dumbasses buy them. It's working well for Nissan's 370Z.

Oh yeah you’re right. But it would be worth it because it looks like so much fun lol

Well there’s A LOT of dumbasses with money and those are worse than the broke ones lol

Cheaper insurance too since less on the road. You'd scoff at the difference between a CTR and 86.

I have zero tickets...

My insurance was $44 per month on my FR-S back in 2012. Now because of the people that get tickets, my insurance is $90 per month. Pretty lame!

It's only going to get worse as more and more young people get them used and crash them.

My demands for the 2nd gen:


1) More rattles! I'd especially like to see things like the front windshield, undercar components, and all of the knobs rattle in some kind of way that gives the impression the car is literally about to fall apart. Nothing says race car like rattles.



2) No actual style improvements needed (it's a great looking car), but an excessive number of aftermarket themed add ons. I want this car to come from the factory with carbon fiber look canards, diffusers, splitters, window louvers, etc. At least give it to us as an option! (hint TRD)



and most importantly



3) Lighter paint. Lot of opportunity for weight savings left in the paint. Maybe they can cut it back to just 1 light dusting of clear over the bare metal. Just enough to keep it from rusting during the warranty, but any more is just overkill and really detracts performance.

Better yet, just come factory primered for cost savings. People who want paint can figure it out themselves afterwards.

Yeah if the S2000 had originally come as a coupe, I probably would have bought one. Fun car for sure.

The dumbasses with money pay other people to fix and mod them instead of making shitty threads on here.

Like this?

Only engine bay at least

Why......marketing said Solar Orange paint wouldn't stick to undercoat in engine bay.......yes, it's the same undercoat on the panels.

On my FR-S I added them with a tapturn relay. It's surprising how on my CX-5 and FR-S now I've come to use them all the time as dumb as it sounds. Lightly tapping for lane changes is quite useful.

I just want stronger internals and a little more robust transmission. I'm happy with everything else.

Wouldn't it be better for us if the second was lame, so we could all have the good one?

I don’t think that would be a good thing at all. [emoji853] I want the 2nd gen to be better in every way. And there is something very cool about having the original version. But a 2nd gen would need to be better to attract new buyers, and get some current 86/BRZ owners to trade up.


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Targa Top?

T-Top ...yes I'm old school
More Torque
No fuel pump crickets
smaller & better steering wheel material - non peeling type

T-top, as in turret

2nd Generation 86 - WISH LIST
 

I would just like to see them come up with a much stronger bottom end, capable of taking FI without limiters. I have an HKS S/C and have to keep it at about 40% of its capabilities via the restrictor, rather than letting it give me 450+ bhp, which I was reliably informed would take a £10,000 short block replacement. A lightened flywheel snd adjusted final drive ratio would be good too. There’s no need to have a car that can do 150+ mph on todays roads, but a sub-6 second 0-60 time would be really good, perhaps even very low 5s.

I’ve also got Tein Flex A Coilovers, with the full EDFC Active Pro system to fit, my Autumn project, along with upgrading the brake pads, fitting braided lines, master cylinder brace, more engine/bodywork bracing, and perhaps a front splitter. When it comes to these, more specialised, things, I reckon that aftermarket companies will do a better job in the long run at supplying bolt on extras, staying current with new technology, and are more responsive to market demand and technological advances, especially those that filter down from pro racing. So to keep the retail costs of the car down it should remain the same with stock suspension etc.

As for the rest of the car, it doesn’t need any luxuries, apart from perhaps having memory electrically adjustable seats A double clutch auto option would be good, for those of us that are forced into an auto gearbox by those that just be obeyed, alongside a proper launch control feature that allows it to rev into its max torque range while the brake is being applied.

Oh, and last, but certainly not least, a Targa top would be just wonderful.

Apart from those little adjustments above, don’t touch anything!


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Current 86s already do 0-60 in sub 6 seconds.

Electric seats add weight. I prefer my manual seats, faster to adjust.

Sounds to me like you want a Supra, not another 86.

I'd actually be upset if it doesn't come with crickets now that I think about it. Major part of the car's identity.

you're not driving it right then? 5-7 K RPMs is when it comes alive..

hmm... maybe. I have this habit of closing my eyes and letting go of the steering wheel when I get nervous from the loud sound at higher RPMs. I might be letting off the throttle too. My FR-S has a (relative) good amount of tq on the low end, then hits the dip, then I hear the sound below. Nothing happens. It's as if I put the car in neutral after the dip.

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tKdcjJoXeEY[/ame]

...so having what you call a "higher power band" will open your eyes and grip the steering wheel? I see..

Don't be mean! I'm a work in progress.

Very strange, my BRZ requires and thrives on revs. What you're describing is torque never recovering after the dip. It definitely should wake up from 5k on up. It sounds like maybe you have an issue with the VVT? My first dyno run the oil wasn't up to temp and it was limp above dip rpm and only pulled ~155rwhp. Subsequent runs were all identical at ~172rwhp. Have you dynoed it?

I would love to see the new 86 be a two seater. Make it a hatchback with enough room for your luggage. Make an all wheel drive option. And make a convertible variant. If they did that, I would definitely buy another one. I know, the hatchback and convertible will probably mess up the structural rigidity, but alot of us just want a fun car that we can throw our bikes in without having to remove a pedal to fit in the trunk. As for the back seat - IT'S UNUSABLE NOW, just sh!t can it!!!

My kids use the back seats.

You want a 2 seat RWD manual, buy a MX5 RF.

You want a hatchback, buy a Corolla, you want AWD, get a Golf R.

Why do people want to turn this sports coupe into something it isn't?

If it was a hatch it would look like every other Hyundai or Kia or Coralla or Golf, which IMO, whilst you can transport a desk of draws, they look rubbish.

Much like the WRX, it looks like a Kia or Hyundai or any other 4 door family grocery getter, trust me, I had a 2015 STI, whilst it went OK, it's look was far from special.

Keep the coupe, stop the stupid.

Or a Corvette or Cayman or Boxster.

Corolla? You go buy a Corolla. AWD? Used STI?

A hatch is a coupe with a bit more usefulness.

No, it would look like an S13 240SX hatchback. Ever heard of those?
I don't think you know what you're talking about.

You stop the stupid.

You may be right. I have my test drive of the Supra booked for the 24th Oct so I will be in a better position to make a more educated decision after that. Unfortunately it is likely that the purchase of a new Supra will not fit into my budget, which is a shame, and i would be very reluctant to sell my 85, with all the upgrades installed, in order to get a Supra that will essentially be an untested model, from the public’s perspective. Perhaps, in a year or so, I will see how things sit with regards to second hand, low mileage examples. At last then I don’t have to pay the taxman so much.


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Do they? I wasn’t aware that the stock 0-60 times were at 5.xx ?

Just to be clear, I was talking about mph not kmh [emoji23]


Also, as alluded to, having been given the choice, by SWMBO (now ex-SWMBO) when purchasing my 86 of an automatic, or not at all, and also having fairly complex neck and shoulder problems, means that I am sensitive to any minuscule changes in driving posture and position. I have often found that, after 30mins driving and starting to feel pain, that the last person driving had made some tiny adjustment to the steering wheel height, or seat recliner position, so small it’s not visible to the naked eye. Yes it adds weight, it would just be a nice option to have. Perhaps there is some way of being able to mechanically set a preferred default position for everything, that is easy to find again if it had been adjusted by someone. That would be my preferred option, that way but adding any weight at all.


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Where is the hatch render?

Shooting brake style, no thanks :barf:

My 2015 WRX STI looked like a Kia with a wing, only got it because it was a fun 4 door family car.

50# of additional sound deadening, 50 more HP, 50 more lb/f, and a passenger seat that adjusts.

Ditch the little computer display on the dash that recently got added.

Give us the mph/kmh switch back.

Lose the audio controls on the steering wheel. Put an OEM Audio+ system in as a factory option.

Oil pressure and temp gauge. You can put it where the analog speedometer is and skip that speedometer.

I would pay more for a BRZ with the above stuff.