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- Andrew |
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will do. thanks andrew. |
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Hey just to update everyone that the whiteline KLC180-215 endlinks worked great for fixing my sway bar and lower control arm from touching. See the pics below. I used some home made wheel cribs at all 4 wheels and adjusted the links until the pre load was gone.
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thanks for the update! nice job on the blocks, too. :)
i am patiently waiting for my set of these endlinks too. they apparently an unobtanium in canada... |
Has anyone used the Hotchkis front/rear endlinks with KW based coilovers? I have RCE SS-1 and I noticed the geometry of the stock endlinks does not look correct when the car is very low. The Hotchkis endlinks are very low profile and feature stock looking bushings rather than spherical so I am interested in getting them before my next alignment, but I am not sure if they are short enough?
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which hotchkis end links are you referring to? a quick google search for me yielded adjustable ones. as an aside, i finally received my whiteline KLC180-215's and they worked out great. while i was waiting for them, i also picked up a set of aftermarket [BMW] E36 M3 end links, which are roughly 3/4" shorter than the stock end links; length-wise they kind of end up between the stock links and the whitelines. i didn't install them yet, but they would likely be short enough and at $45/pair they were about 30% of the cost of the whiteline units. food for thought. |
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I actually emailed them about it a few weeks ago and they never got back to me. I guess I will need to give them a call. |
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i took a few minutes to google this, and someone was kind enough to leave an amazon review with some details on the length: "These certainly are made well and easy to install and adjust, but they are barely shorter than the OEM endlinks at their shortest setting. If you're looking for shorter endlinks to address a lowered FR-S's swaybar clearance issues, I would look elsewhere." (from: https://www.amazon.ca/Hotchkis-25445...ustomerReviews) if the RCE SS-1 you're running has got the same body or mounting dimensions as their Tarmac 0 (which i have on my car), then you definitely want to look into the whiteline KLC180-215. i am lowered about 25-30mm from stock height and i have plenty of clearance with the KLC180-215's. |
I cut the Hotchis shorter because they were too long on even the shortest position with RCE T2s and T3s.
I have used those that way with the OEM sway bar and a Whiteline sway bar. Once cut down, they were fine. The Whiteline endlinks were too thick for me and would contact the inner fender, because of all the camber. Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk |
Guys I'm really lost with this topic, I've read literally everything: some say you need shorter links, others say longer, others say that up to 40mm drop you can use oem ones
Please someone who is 100% sure, which length of end links I need for my setup: KW v3, oem sway bar, ~1.3"/33mm drop? |
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I needed SPL short endlinks with Tarmac 2s and TRD bar. Links JUST kiss the back of the strut at full lock.
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I used a endlink made for Kia (215mm ish). Length and shaft thickness clears shock body (kw 1 way), control arm and all chassis common contact spots...up to about -4.2 camber before endlink cap starts making contact with wall. (max on crash bolt and top hat) on trd 21mm and perrin 22mm (forgot position used).
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Definitely recommend adjustable endlinks with adjustable swaybars or if you're corner balancing the car.
- Andrew |
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As you may remember from the other thread, I will be running corner balanced V3s with a 20mm drop on stock sway bar and end links. Is that an order for me to spend more money? (I don't take those lightly [have already ordered the 60-170 at your indirect direction :D]) |
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Make sure you also index your end link rod ends / ball joints so that they don't bind. It seems like it is extremely easy to get into end link issues with these cars in a way that causes binding or contact, a lot of manufs on both sides (coilovers and endlinks) seem to get it wrong. Length is important too. I've seen contact in the following ways, I'm sure there are more: 1. Sway bar to LCA 2. Endlink to chassis behind coilover 3. Endlink to bottom of strut when turning the steering wheel This can cause weird stuff like power steering cut out, sudden understeer under certain situations, broken endlinks, etc. |
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With adjustable swaybars which have different mounting holes, it helps to have adjustable endlinks to make sure you don't have rubbing issues. And to do a perfect corner balance, you need adjustable swaybars to make sure there's no preload on the swaybar. - Andrew |
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No, I'm curious to find if *YOU* need the adjustable end links :laughabove: |
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but FYI some guys from Germany told me that it should work with OEM links with a drop of up to ~40mm. More than that you would need longer links in the front, not shorter |
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