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-   -   Thoughts on this built engine for my Turbo FRS (https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=136346)

Conman 08-14-2019 04:18 PM

Thoughts on this built engine for my Turbo FRS
 
https://www.rallysportdirect.com/par...ru-short-block

Looking to build my engine. The shop I would take it to is recommending this engine. Any thoughts?

86TOYO2k17 08-14-2019 04:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Conman (Post 3247713)
https://www.rallysportdirect.com/par...ru-short-block

Looking to build my engine. The shop I would take it to is recommending this engine. Any thoughts?

how much power are you trying to make?
What turbo are you going to be running and at how much boost?

Conman 08-14-2019 04:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 86TOYO2k17 (Post 3247728)
how much power are you trying to make?
What turbo are you going to be running and at how much boost?

400ish... Gt2860rs...I dunno; what ever is safe for E85 and occasionally 91.

Grady 08-14-2019 05:23 PM

You can make 400whp on E85 without dropping the compression ratio.

Conman 08-14-2019 06:03 PM

That’s jus what they recommend... Why would or wouldn’t you use a different compression ratio? The IAG described it as being safer for boost... I don’t care what hp number I make. I just want my engine to not blow up.

Joveen 08-14-2019 06:31 PM

IAG is a great company. Do it!!

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Irace86.2.0 08-14-2019 07:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Conman (Post 3247751)
That’s jus what they recommend... Why would or wouldn’t you use a different compression ratio? The IAG described it as being safer for boost... I don’t care what hp number I make. I just want my engine to not blow up.

Dropping compression will allow for more power and especially more power on pump gas, but you may find there is less fuel economy and less power down low or off boost with slightly more turbo lag. It is definitely not necessary for modest goals and isn’t too necessary if you have easy access to E85. Unlike a supercharger, the turbo can have its boost modulated better with an electronic boost controller to adjust for 91 or for doing boost by gear or progressive boosting. If you want to go further than 400whp then definitely drop compression.

Grady 08-14-2019 08:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Irace86.2.0 (Post 3247787)
less power down low or off boost with slightly more turbo lag

Exactly why I would not drop compression at 400hp. With good rods, pistons, tune and E85 you will be safe at 400.

86TOYO2k17 08-14-2019 09:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Conman (Post 3247730)
400ish... Gt2860rs...I dunno; what ever is safe for E85 and occasionally 91.

I’m not a turbo expert. But isn’t that turbo on the smaller side? Not sure if it can flow enough air to hit 400whp with 10:1 compression. If it can I bet it’ll be maxed out.

350whp on 91 and 425whp on E85 should be perfectly fine and safe on stock compression with forged rods/pistons. It’s largely on the tune and boost controller for safety once you have forged internals.

The trade off is lower compression requires more boost to make the same power So you’ll have more turbo lag/spool up and less low end torque/throttle response, worse MPG, and less off boost power. but assuming your turbo can pump enough air you’ll have more top end potential. But with sub 425whp goals your probably better off with stock compression. Or do 12:1 or 11.5:1 for a happy medium.

Irace86.2.0 08-14-2019 09:34 PM

Pump gas is really the deciding factor, besides power potential and reliability. I would rather be able to make big power on pump gas than be concerned about low end power.

Are there many people making more than 300whp on 91? 350whp on 91 seems sketchy, even on a built motor. A built motor can help avoid failure from higher power, but not from preignition/detonation.

86TOYO2k17 08-14-2019 09:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Irace86.2.0 (Post 3247811)
Pump gas is really the deciding factor, besides power potential and reliability. I would rather be able to make big power on pump gas than be concerned about low end power.

Are there many people making more than 300whp on 91? 350whp on 91 seems sketchy, even on a built motor. A built motor can help avoid failure from higher power, but not from preignition/detonation.

You may be right. 350whp on 91 may be pushing it. I’ve seen 350whp on 93 though. So maybe 315whp on 91. (Disclaimer dyno #s vary a lot dyno to dyno)
But not really anyone with a built block that kept stock compression and runs 91 that’s posted a dyno that I’ve found. Usually either lowered compression, or uses E85.

Personally if I had E85 and only wanted sub 450whp i would keep stock compression, or only slightly drop it. And just keep the boost low if I ever had to resort to pump.

Scjacob827 08-14-2019 11:54 PM

Well that took a turn

Irace86.2.0 08-15-2019 12:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 86TOYO2k17 (Post 3247818)
You may be right. 350whp on 91 may be pushing it. I’ve seen 350whp on 93 though. So maybe 315whp on 91. (Disclaimer dyno #s vary a lot dyno to dyno)
But not really anyone with a built block that kept stock compression and runs 91 that’s posted a dyno that I’ve found. Usually either lowered compression, or uses E85.

Personally if I had E85 and only wanted sub 450whp i would keep stock compression, or only slightly drop it. And just keep the boost low if I ever had to resort to pump.

The other option is lower compression and have more power on pump and e85, but deal with a slight drop in low end, but I’ve seen dynos with lower compression, and there doesn’t seem to be a huge difference. This is also why high compression and FI is just not done. It is better to raise the effective compression ratio than to start with a high static compression ratio.

I would run 10.5:1

Irace86.2.0 08-15-2019 12:31 AM

Also, this post of this thread had this link, which showed the dyno below for a slightly modded WRX throwing down decent numbers on 93 octane.

http://i.imgur.com/MU08aj3.jpg

That post led to this response, which I'll quote anyways:

Quote:

For what it’s worth and more from a holistic perspective... the final tuning work was recently completed on my engine. Since I was going to use 91/94 octane (no e85 in my location) The builder/tuner had decided to proceed with 10:1 to maximize long term reliability and detonation protection. I was initially concerned about how this could affect off boost performance, however Final tuning dissipated all my doubts, the car performs amazingly, with power delivery being just as gradual as before, with essentially no lag at all. The car is simply mind boggingly fun to drive, and they we able to bring TQ about 400rpms earlier than before in the low end, as well as achieving a higher tq plateau (up to +60lbft @crank) across the entire mid/top end as well, resulting in lots of extra “area under the curve”. The garrett gt2871 was able to maintain steam to 7500rpm. Note that I was not seeking maximum top end power, but just more usable tq across the entire range for daily driving with the odd hpde. My low boost 91 map now has higher tq across the entire rpm range than my previous stock engine high boost 94 map, with the rest of the setup and unchanged. So for those not going towards higher octane fuel, my feedback on those considering lowering to 10:1 cr would be that very satisfactory results (for my goals) was achieved.

Joveen 08-15-2019 01:16 PM

Sell the parts separately. I'm interested in the turbo kit and clutch and etc.... hahahha

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Irace86.2.0 08-15-2019 01:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mrg666 (Post 3248065)
You have totaled that car. Nobody in the right mind would pay $12K. It was a beautiful car before you owned it.

:paddle::sigh::thumbdown:

I really don't feel like that was necessary. You might not be a fan of his style, nor would a majority of people, but the 86 is known for having young and flashy owners with tastes on the more extreme spectrum, so I'm sure he could sell the car for at least $12k. No need to beat on the man when he is down having blown his motor and needing to sell his car for a loss.

mrg666 08-15-2019 02:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Irace86.2.0 (Post 3248102)
:paddle::sigh::thumbdown:

I really don't feel like that was necessary. You might not be a fan of his style, nor would a majority of people, but the 86 is known for having young and flashy owners with tastes on the more extreme spectrum, so I'm sure he could sell the car for at least $12k. No need to beat on the man when he is down having blown his motor and needing to sell his car for a loss.

How does saying "you did a good job but that car is really stupid" sound? Would it be helpful for the next car? I am not that kind of a nice guy. He can hate me all he wants but hopefully he does not waste that much money next time. So, we disagree.

Irace86.2.0 08-15-2019 03:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mrg666 (Post 3248113)
How does saying "you did a good job but that car is really stupid" sound? Would it be helpful for the next car? I am not that kind of a nice guy. He can hate me all he wants but hopefully he does not waste that much money next time. So, we disagree.

Obviously you haven’t heard ‘if you don’t have anything nice to say then don’t say anything at all’.

Outside of the wrap, the car looks like any other car here, so what is your point? The $4k vinyl wrap can be removed in minutes. That car is loaded with high end parts. A new, built shortblock and a rebuild for $5k, and the car is capable of being a beast. Maybe the cost for the new owner can be offset by selling a few parts like the other two sets of rims or whatever.

Conman 08-15-2019 06:15 PM

I really just wanted to know If this particular engine the IAG Stg2 with the lower 10.0:1 compression is a reliable option and worth spending the $9,000 it well take to have it installed. James my tuner says the lower ratio is not a good idea... The internet is filled with waaay to much misinformation and I seriously regret ever looking on it for any advice on this build... I guess I just drop the money on this and hope it runs. Shop says they cant tune useing EcuTek so i dunno what im going to tune it with. Sell my ecutek and buy a OFt i guess. Or hope that the same tune from HRi before will work on the new engine

Irace86.2.0 08-15-2019 06:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Conman (Post 3248199)
I really just wanted to know If this particular engine the IAG Stg2 with the lower 10.0:1 compression is a reliable option and worth spending the $9,000 it well take to have it installed. James my tuner says the lower ratio is not a good idea... The internet is filled with waaay to much misinformation and I seriously regret ever looking on it for any advice on this build... I guess I just drop the money on this and hope it runs. Shop says they cant tune useing EcuTek so i dunno what im going to tune it with. Sell my ecutek and buy a OFt i guess. Or hope that the same tune from HRi before will work on the new engine

I feel like Delicious or CSG can get you an etune you would be happy with until you do a dyno tune with a shop that uses ECUTEK.

Look at every manufacturer on the market who has a forced induction motor. They all run lower compression. 10:1 is still high by many standards. If a tuner is balking at such a notion then perhaps it is because they don’t have experience tuning lower compression on this platform. Can they actually provide a reason why lower compression isn’t necessary? 400whp is achievable, but you will be making less than 300whp on 91. Why not have more while your building the motor and not being reliant on E85. It seems easier to tune the car for 91 and E85 with lower compression than trying to program progressive boost or boost by gear or something anyways.

Grady 08-15-2019 06:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Conman (Post 3248199)
I really just wanted to know If this particular engine the IAG Stg2 with the lower 10.0:1 compression is a reliable option and worth spending the $9,000 it well take to have it installed. James my tuner says the lower ratio is not a good idea... The internet is filled with waaay to much misinformation and I seriously regret ever looking on it for any advice on this build... I guess I just drop the money on this and hope it runs. Shop says they cant tune useing EcuTek so i dunno what im going to tune it with. Sell my ecutek and buy a OFt i guess. Or hope that the same tune from HRi before will work on the new engine

I tried to give you good advice, That power setting you do not need to lower compression.

You shop can’t tune using EcuTek? Is this the shop that tuned it prior to it blowing up? If that is the case I would look into a new shop/tuner.

You have put a lot of money in the car. Buy used engine out of a junk yard. Look for a car that has not been modified not the lowest mileage. Take apart and put new rods/pistons/rings. Reassemble with the best of the parts you have.

Conman 08-15-2019 07:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Grady (Post 3248214)
I tried to give you good advice, That power setting you do not need to lower compression.

You shop can’t tune using EcuTek? Is this the shop that tuned it prior to it blowing up? If that is the case I would look into a new shop/tuner.

You have put a lot of money in the car. Buy used engine out of a junk yard. Look for a car that has not been modified not the lowest mileage. Take apart and put new rods/pistons/rings. Reassemble with the best of the parts you have.

Well I could buy the MAP built block with the stock compression ratio... NO; this is not the shop who blew the car up originally...This is the only local shop that will do an engine rebuild and warranty their work; they want to use the IAg stg2. They said they have never tuned with ECutek but will give it a try. Otherwise James said he can tune it but doesn't recommend the IAG block... Full Blown is the only other local shop that tunes with ECutek. James at HRI said go with Full Blown; But everything I hear locally is stay away from Full Blown... I dont know how to install an engine but maybe I should spend the $9,000 instead and go out and buy all the tools I would need, a lift, and engine stand, I dunno what else. Then do the install my self, I doubt that would go well since I have no idea what im doing... Thats why I wanted a local shop to do the install. Final option is pay to have the car shipped cross country to a shop that knows what they are doing... :iono: Think I will just put down the deposit on the IAg block and hope for the best. Thanks everyone... Now off to find a second job so I can pay for my totaled car, lol.

Bach415 08-15-2019 07:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Conman (Post 3248223)
Well I could buy the MAP built block with the stock compression ratio... NO; this is not the shop who blew the car up originally...This is the only local shop that will do an engine rebuild and warranty their work; they want to use the IAg stg2. They said they have never tuned with ECutek but will give it a try. Otherwise James said he can tune it but doesn't recommend the IAG block... Full Blown is the only other local shop that tunes with ECutek. James at HRI said go with Full Blown; But everything I hear locally is stay away from Full Blown... I dont know how to install an engine but maybe I should spend the $9,000 instead and go out and buy all the tools I would need, a lift, and engine stand, I dunno what else. Then do the install my self, I doubt that would go well since I have no idea what im doing... Thats why I wanted a local shop to do the install. Final option is pay to have the car shipped cross country to a shop that knows what they are doing... :iono: Think I will just put down the deposit on the IAg block and hope for the best. Thanks everyone... Now off to find a second job so I can pay for my totaled car, lol.

IAG also offers a normal compression built block for our platform as well.

It's weird that the shop have not tuned with ECUTek when it's the most used program when it comes to our platform besides OFT. Makes me doubt that shop a bit but can't judge. You can possibly have them install, then get James to e-tune it for you.
Full Blown is a reputable company that made turbo kits and parts for our cars so Idk why people would say to stay away from them, when James do recommend it.


Edit:Here's the link for IAG St2 Standard CR (12.5:1) https://www.iagperformance.com/IAG-S...g-eng-1210.htm

Tonrogs 08-15-2019 07:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Conman (Post 3248223)
Well I could buy the MAP built block with the stock compression ratio... NO; this is not the shop who blew the car up originally...This is the only local shop that will do an engine rebuild and warranty their work; they want to use the IAg stg2. They said they have never tuned with ECutek but will give it a try. Otherwise James said he can tune it but doesn't recommend the IAG block... Full Blown is the only other local shop that tunes with ECutek. James at HRI said go with Full Blown; But everything I hear locally is stay away from Full Blown... I dont know how to install an engine but maybe I should spend the $9,000 instead and go out and buy all the tools I would need, a lift, and engine stand, I dunno what else. Then do the install my self, I doubt that would go well since I have no idea what im doing... Thats why I wanted a local shop to do the install. Final option is pay to have the car shipped cross country to a shop that knows what they are doing... :iono: Think I will just put down the deposit on the IAg block and hope for the best. Thanks everyone... Now off to find a second job so I can pay for my totaled car, lol.

You should seriously consider at least part of my offer. Take a ride in my 9:1 engine BRZ. You could also just pull the engine and have FBM build it utilizing your existing case halves and crank.
As for the tune you have from James, it is the same base tune. It will work so long as it has the same parts on the engine as before. CR won't affect the base tune.
Lastly, consider my entire offer I sent to you via pm. I'm more than willing to help you out. I'm only 4 hours away.
If you want to, pm me back and I'll give you my number and we can talk.

Irace86.2.0 08-15-2019 07:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Grady (Post 3248214)
I tried to give you good advice, That power setting you do not need to lower compression.

You shop can’t tune using EcuTek? Is this the shop that tuned it prior to it blowing up? If that is the case I would look into a new shop/tuner.

You have put a lot of money in the car. Buy used engine out of a junk yard. Look for a car that has not been modified not the lowest mileage. Take apart and put new rods/pistons/rings. Reassemble with the best of the parts you have.

His tuner is saying it is a bad idea. You are saying at 400whp is not needed, but he is building the motor so why not? Can you give one reason why he shouldn’t? Wouldn’t the improved reliability, improvement power on pump gas and overhead for more power in the future more than warrant lowering compression?

Tonrogs 08-15-2019 08:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Irace86.2.0 (Post 3248235)
His tuner is saying it is a bad idea. You are saying at 400whp is not needed, but he is building the motor so why not? Can you give one reason why he shouldn’t? Wouldn’t the improved reliability, improvement power on pump gas and overhead for more power in the future more than warrant lowering compression?

yes it would warrant it. Go 10.5:1 or 10:1 and have fun knowing you have more head room for more boost.

Bach415 08-15-2019 08:19 PM

@Irace86.2.0. (for some reason can't quote) The thing is, we aren't seeing the whole picture of what @Conman wants from his car or what he had told to his tuner. So far, we only know two things of what he wants and those are it being a safe build and making 400 whp. His tuner might have said it might be a bad idea because if he wants the minimum or no turbo lag at all then having the standard CR helps alleviate that as much as possible. Until @Conman tells us what he wants from the car, any type of theory/build is usable.

Irace86.2.0 08-15-2019 08:33 PM

If E85 was plentiful, pump gas was rarely going to happen, 400whp was the limit forever, the car never saw a track day and long commutes required fuel economy then I would totally say leave the stock compression, but in any other scenario I would say drop compression.

This quote from post 14 says it all:

Quote:

My low boost 91 map now has higher tq across the entire rpm range than my previous stock engine high boost 94 map, with the rest of the setup and unchanged. So for those not going towards higher octane fuel, my feedback on those considering lowering to 10:1 cr would be that very satisfactory results (for my goals) was achieved.

Conman 08-15-2019 08:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Irace86.2.0 (Post 3248250)
If E85 was plentiful, pump gas was rarely going to happen, 400whp was the limit forever, the car never saw a track day and long commutes required fuel economy then I would totally say leave the stock compression, but in any other scenario I would say drop compression.

This quote from post 14 says it all:

@Bach415

Right on! Thanks; Yeah E85 is plentiful around me. I dont really see making any changes for more power after this. I might want to do a track day maybe a couple times a year, and weekend autoXs. Its going to be my daily for the spring, summer, fall but my commute is very easy. Only 12 miles, mostly highway... Only thing is i really wanted to be able to drive it cross country out to CA to visit my buddy and do a track day out there with him. But I might just need to buy a trailer and haul it if I want to do that...

Grady 08-15-2019 09:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Irace86.2.0 (Post 3248235)
His tuner is saying it is a bad idea. You are saying at 400whp is not needed, but he is building the motor so why not? Can you give one reason why he shouldn’t? Wouldn’t the improved reliability, improvement power on pump gas and overhead for more power in the future more than warrant lowering compression?

His 2nd post clearly stated he is running e85 and occasional 91. So no lowering compression for him would be a step back.

Irace86.2.0 08-15-2019 09:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Conman (Post 3248261)
@Bach415

Right on! Thanks; Yeah E85 is plentiful around me. I dont really see making any changes for more power after this. I might want to do a track day maybe a couple times a year, and weekend autoXs. Its going to be my daily for the spring, summer, fall but my commute is very easy. Only 12 miles, mostly highway... Only thing is i really wanted to be able to drive it cross country out to CA to visit my buddy and do a track day out there with him. But I might just need to buy a trailer and haul it if I want to do that...

No reason you couldn't drive it to CA, even if you ran out of E85. You could just run a lower boost map.

I would just read that link I posted. Here it is again, but read more about what others said than myself; those who lowered compression:

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showt...pression+ratio

In the beginning I was in the camp that E85 was enough for 400whp, that it only made sense to drop compression when wanting more power than that, or if someone was going to spend a lot of time on 91 octane, but it seems like if anyone is going to be doing track days, wants more power off E85, more power potential down the road, etc then might as well drop the compression. In fact, several guys with lower compression motors chimed in and their responses confirmed the benefits. You are in the E85 capital of the country, practically, so access isn't an issue, but for reliability, I would consider dropping compression, especially if you will be doing track days.

Irace86.2.0 08-15-2019 09:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Grady (Post 3248270)
His 2nd post clearly stated he is running e85 and occasional 91. So no lowering compression for him would be a step back.

There might be more turbo lag and less fuel economy and less power off of boost, but if those detriments were 200rpms, 3mpg and 15hp@2k, respectively, then wouldn't the reliability improvement be worth it, especially for track days?

FunnyGopher 08-16-2019 05:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Irace86.2.0 (Post 3248284)
There might be more turbo lag and less fuel economy and less power off of boost, but if those detriments were 200rpms, 3mpg and 15hp@2k, respectively, then wouldn't the reliability improvement be worth it, especially for track days?

There's a post on here from Delicious somewhere explaining that they opt for customers to use a stock compression or 12:1 compression built block when going FI, because there was no need to lower compression. I have a buddy locally who just built his block through CSG via Bluemoon Performance, and they opted for a 12:1 compression. Both of these companies are regarded as companies that know their stuff, and both chose to use stock-ish compression.

Just sharing some knowledge about what those companies prefer, not trying to tell you you're wrong. Many different ways to make power.

churchx 08-16-2019 07:19 AM

Or simply there are more ways to skin a cat, netting same result/output at end.

86TOYO2k17 08-16-2019 09:51 AM

When these cars first came out, it was commonly thought that even 10:1 compression was high compression, and people thought with 12.5:1 that no way this can handle any boost, then people tried it and thought, OK it can handle it but 7psi is the limit, and then they kept testing it and pushing it and its been shown that even 12-13psi is pretty reliable on a stock engine. Many tuners in recent years now have changed their thoughts on needing to lower the CR stating its not really necessary, and often times not recommended.

New tuning methods, the cars ability to monitor so many parameters and give instant feedback, being able to adjust and tune so many parameters, and having both PI and DI, has allowed tuners to safely push these cars closer to the edge, as well as push the edge further out, allowing for safe reliable power with out needing to drop the CR.

400whp on E85 is easy to get with stock CR, I would possibly consider 12:1 for a slight added margin of safety and being able to push the car more in the future if desired. but much lower doesn't seem necessary or worth it on these cars, unless your shooting for some crazy numbers.

Hearing from people who dropped CR stating its worth it or recommended doesn't really say much. I would much prefer hearing from people with built engines and kept stock CR and what their tuner said was the limiting factor for reliable power.

Grady 08-16-2019 11:50 AM

I remember 35 years ago doing 10 to 1 on a 351 Windsor in my 73 Bronco. At the time that was a premium gas only engine.

Bach415 08-16-2019 12:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FunnyGopher (Post 3248386)
There's a post on here from Delicious somewhere explaining that they opt for customers to use a stock compression or 12:1 compression built block when going FI, because there was no need to lower compression. I have a buddy locally who just built his block through CSG via Bluemoon Performance, and they opted for a 12:1 compression. Both of these companies are regarded as companies that know their stuff, and both chose to use stock-ish compression.

Just sharing some knowledge about what those companies prefer, not trying to tell you you're wrong. Many different ways to make power.

^this. It was the dyno for TJ Hunt's car w/ Edelbrock super charger for the delicious tuning one. Long story short, the car made roughly 400 whp but had they had to dial back the power due to the amount of linear boost coming out of the super charger. IIRC eventually TJ Hunt changed over to a turbo kit instead for more power while keeping that same CR.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 86TOYO2k17 (Post 3248414)
When these cars first came out, it was commonly thought that even 10:1 compression was high compression, and people thought with 12.5:1 that no way this can handle any boost, then people tried it and thought, OK it can handle it but 7psi is the limit, and then they kept testing it and pushing it and its been shown that even 12-13psi is pretty reliable on a stock engine. Many tuners in recent years now have changed their thoughts on needing to lower the CR stating its not really necessary, and often times not recommended.

New tuning methods, the cars ability to monitor so many parameters and give instant feedback, being able to adjust and tune so many parameters, and having both PI and DI, has allowed tuners to safely push these cars closer to the edge, as well as push the edge further out, allowing for safe reliable power with out needing to drop the CR.

400whp on E85 is easy to get with stock CR, I would possibly consider 12:1 for a slight added margin of safety and being able to push the car more in the future if desired. but much lower doesn't seem necessary or worth it on these cars, unless your shooting for some crazy numbers.

Hearing from people who dropped CR stating its worth it or recommended doesn't really say much. I would much prefer hearing from people with built engines and kept stock CR and what their tuner said was the limiting factor for reliable power.

I agree with this. Not much people ran the 12.5:1 CR on built motors for our platform but it has been proven that it does work. I would like to see more builds with the standard CR. Pretty sure everyone has seen how TJ Hunt drives his BRZ. He has not blown his motor yet from what I can recall but had snapped a lot of belts off of the supercharger.

Another view on this are the stock motors built by Honda (I know different engine). I have seen even the type-r engines (both B and K series) push around 350-400 whp on stock blocks w/ boost (these are already running 11:1 or 11.5:1 CR iirc from factory) and still driving fine.

Irace86.2.0 08-16-2019 02:30 PM

It would be interesting to see 400whp at 10:1 and at 12.5:1 on the track. Specifically, would the temps be much different and would the cars still be putting down 400whp or would the 12.5:1 be compensating with ignition timing.

We have a few people who have blown built motors too. Curious what their compression ratio was.

Irace86.2.0 08-16-2019 04:27 PM

Maybe @Sportsguy83 can chime in. Didn’t he make like 553whp on a stock block or something freaky? Maybe 400whp is nothing, even for the track.

Sportsguy83 08-16-2019 06:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Irace86.2.0 (Post 3248517)
Maybe @Sportsguy83 can chime in. Didn’t he make like 553whp on a stock block or something freaky? Maybe 400whp is nothing, even for the track.



552 on stock block, but that’s just a ticking time bomb..... I pushed it on 500 whp map, the 552 map was very rarely used.

If I would have built the FA20, it would have been because I trust the shop that built it and wouldn’t ace any worries tracking it at 400 whp...

but I don’t know if there’s any track record out there for built cars being used hard on the track at that power level. There has to be, but I personally don’t know.


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