Edelbrock E85 clutch recommendation
 

Been searching for a bit, but spinning my wheels and not finding enough opinions from people who are happy with their decision with similar power levels.


I have had my Edelbrock supercharger for ~25k miles on the stock clutch. Making the jump to E85 and expect to make 250-280 ft-lb at the wheels and looking to replace the clutch at the same time.

I really only drive the car on the street, and it is typically my daily driver. I want a very OEM like feel. Also need suggestions on any parts that need to be replaced while in there. (Verus fork, 2017+ TOB, etc.)

Right now looking at the Southbend stage 2 daily.

I am AVO turbo, E85, Probably similar at the wheels. Did the ACK street clutch with lightweight flywheel, Verus fork and pivot. Pivot not needed for new car. You may want it for your 2013, fork good. Light weight fly wheel great if you are ok with idle transmission chatter. Clutch real close to stock feel but did not hold after 500 miles of break in. Now that I am past 1K it seems to be holding better. Only time will tell.

ACT SB7-HDSS

https://www.counterspacegarage.com/a...z-frs-sb7-hdss

Make sure your mechanic uses a ***METAL*** clutch tool to align during the install. This is critical to proper engagement.

Nervous about this one. I have seen you pitch it quite a bit, but from my searches it seems like the unit with the most complaints/issues as well. I understand more complaints to an extent as it has a higher adoption rate as well, but still leaves me nervous.

do you need stage 2 for <300-400 bhp?
I thought Stage 1 is plenty .. and honestly stock probably enough if you're not clutch dumping everywhere ... right?

It has the most complaints because it has the highest market share.

Every single ACT I've seen with an issue is an install issue; mechanics get lazy about how they put on the clutch, and don't torque evenly in a star pattern. They just gun it on and call it a day, and that causes issues.

Two things on this:

1, I don't see how the metal alignment tool is a thing vs plastic. If you are close enough to get the shaft into the clutch disc the first time you push the pedal the disc will move into the perfectly aligned position.

2 I installed an ACT myself and can assure you the torque was applied in a uniform pattern. Finger tight in a star, then 15 ftlbs in a star, etc up to final torque. I found the ACT to be annoying as shit. The driveline resonances it added we're tremendous.

I think the happiness with a clutch winds up being several things, like how old your engine mounts and tranny mounts are. Certainly if things are botched during install it can be bad, but they can still suck even if you do everything right.

Love my stage 2 SB daily clutch. Not sure if you want to get the endurance or stage 3. Stage 2 daily is only rated at 315 crank

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I guess I could chance it, but I expect it will slip with the experience noted on this board at the torque level expected.
The clutch swap is free due to the engine being pulled for the valve spring recall, so can not argue with that.

I would still be under 315 crank torque, but it would be pretty close.

I am unsure the stage 2 endurance would give the same OEM feel. The stage 3 requires a single mass flywheel which obviously bumps the price quite a bit, but also should have less dampening.

Well considering your stock clutch has lasted this long you can roll the dice with stage 2 daily. It's 100% OEM just a bit stiffer. Should give you plenty of life.

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To be clear, my stock clutch lived with the supercharger on 93. The change to E85 will be a 60+ rwhp bump.

Understand but the stock clutch is only good for 200-215 maybe 225tq max. So the southbend stg 2 is rated for 315tq I think you will be fine to be honest.

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I have a Harrop kit with a pulley making 12psi on E85, and I am running an Exedy Stage 1 kit, which is essentially the stock clutch in our car, but with a stronger pressure plate. I wanted something as close to stock as possible with a heavy/OEM flywheel.

I would imagine the life of the clutch will be less than other clutches, so that is a factory, yet it isn't slipping or anything yet. The initial bite could be harder, but then that could also effect drivability, and I want it to be like stock. I won't be adding more power because I will need to build the motor, so this one is fine for me.

I also did the Verus forged clutch fork and billet pivot.