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Going New Brakes
Hey guys and gals, I am on OEM Brakes and OEM Rotors. I want to do a kit swap in new rotors and brakes. NOT BIG BRAKE KITS! Something that is drilled and slotted, doesn't make a lot of brake dust. Also, that is a great affordable, performance brake kit. I do not track only for daily sending lol. Hit me with what y'all find. Thank you!
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I'd help, but I'm new to brakes : (. So instead you get the "this is a forum where you can request some help, but also go do research" responses.
Sent from my GM1915 using Tapatalk |
If you are just looking for a cosmetic upgrade, you can find these on ebay. I painted my calipers to match my lugnuts. (and other trim) I needed to replace my stock brakes, so I got these. They stop my car as good as OEM, or at least I think so. :bonk:
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A blanket " I want to upgrade my brakes" statement is too open ended for any useful information to be given. TRD pads are considered an upgrade if your car never sees more than daily use. I would not bother with drilled or slotted rotors. Stick with high quality blanks. Unless you track I don't see the need to go beyond OEM. Factory rotors are good quality. I've done a track session 100% stock and everything survived minus the pad fading after 2-3 laps. |
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Sorry hijacking so I digress and will chime in if I can offer an answer for op. Sent from my GM1915 using Tapatalk |
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I see OP has since adjusted his post with more info. For daily use hawk HP plus is about as aggressive as you'll want for stock tires. They're harder on the rotor but can handle back road driving with ease. HPS is probably better suited to daily use, but they dust a bit. Hawk makes a ceramic pad which will dust less but will not bite as hard. |
You will not beat OE replacement parts for cost and quality based on your goals.
Centric blank discs are $35-$45/each People like Stoptech pads, TRD pads are also affordable at like $150/set Brake fluid flush with quality DOT 5 is also warranted at almost 4 years old Drilled/slotted is a gimick |
I guess my post got deleted, even though I linked a helpful article..
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You win this round! Fine, fine. Well know that when I ask, it's likely after I hit a wall with research or I wasn't able to find much, or definitive info. |
Wondering why my post was deleted too... gave him actual useful information.
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but also know that better/grippier pad compounds generally are going to dust more. any pad compound is a personally-acceptable balance between pad wear, noise, dust, and performance. you cannot have a low dust, low noise, high performance pad. you can only pick one. choose high performance, and get some noise, and dust. choose low dust, and noise will go down, as will performance. drilled rotors are mostly a concept. if you're reaching a point where heat gasses are preventing the pads to contact to the rotor(unlikely if you don't track the car, and the only reason to have drilled rotors), the oem brake fluid would be boiling, and you'd have largely exceeded the restrictions you've stated by not upgrading to a BBK. Quote:
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Centric blanks for rotors. Get better brake fluid and some new pads. Plenty of good options. Check out winmax pads. Get their w2 or w3 depending of track time/autocross or just dd. No need for fancy rotors. In fact drilled rotors are more prone to crack under high heat loads.
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Adding again since my original comment was deleted...
Slotted/drilled are a gimmick and waste of money. If it's a pure daily street car, stick with OEM or OEM equivalent. Centric blank rotors are great value (cheaper than OEM, every bit as good). Pads that are more aggressive than stock will create more dust (and noise). If you can engage ABS, you already have more than enough braking power. Adding more bite will just have relying on ABS even more. Tires are the limiting factor in stopping distances if the car is all stock. |
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Modern pads don't off gas at all, so that's not a concern even with track use. |
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