Dual bolt pattern wheel for HDPE
 

I was wondering if dual bolt patterns, so called universal wheel are strong enough for some HDPE/tracking? Or if they are weaker because of the 8 holes.
I'm looking to buy a cheap used set but there is not a lot of option. I already have rpf1 for autocross, but would like to do a couple of track days with my old re71r tires but I don't want to pay too much for wheels.

Honestly you are way overthinking this.

Wheels are wheels. They will hold up. Cheap wheels can/will the same performance as expensive wheels.

Only downs side is pot holes. Some can bend/crack, but it's the same for any light weight expensive wheel.

As for autox use, go for it. You'll have zero problems with a multi hole wheel.

Ok thanks. They are not for autox tought, i already have a set for that, I want a second set for track day/hdpe. I wasn't sure if the dual bolt pattern were stong enough.

Just my thoughts:
I don't think I have ever seen or heard of a wheel failing at the holes themselves, so I don't think the fact that there are more holes is going to be the problem. However, the whole reason they put two sets of holes is to save money, so they can sell the same wheel to two different customers. And then the question becomes, if they are saving money there, where else are they saving money? That's the main reason I would tend to avoid those kind of wheels, because they could be a sign of cost cutting that will result in some other failure.

In the end though, as long as you know that the wheels are from a reputable brand, inspect them regularly, and torque them down correctly, you should be okay. I think the best bargain is to snatch up some stock wheels on the cheap.

I have never heard of anyone breaking a wheel because of a dual bolt pattern. FWIW if it gives you some assurance, I've tracked on an early production set of Apex arc-8's that were dual-drilled (5x100 and 5x114). No problems.

I've only just gotten into track days, but I've had the same 2 sets of dual-drilled Motegi SP10s since ~2009. One set each year was for street, other for autocross and other shenanigans. They're cheap, gravity cast, 17lbs and $125 each. Just about the worst combo for ultimate strength you can manage off-the-shelf. Weakened further when I got the FRS and had to shave 2mm off each wheel hub face to make the offset street/stock legal.

The wheels are not all perfectly straight/round. But, no issues with the bolt holes. And the wheels have done now 4 days (16 sessions) there, including 4-off drills on top of the many seasons of autocross and crappy northeast roads.

Short of actual defects in the wheels specifically in that area, I'm pretty sure some other part of the wheel will fail first. But when buying used, that's a big part. Knowing how to look for signs of fatigue will be reassuring.

Also, google can be handy when cruising classifieds. Just google the brand/model and look for people ranting on the internet. More than just the bolt holes, I think you'd still not be happy with a cheap wheel that bends like butter.

**Now, that is not to say that re/dual-drilling a second set into the current wheels is the same thing. It's not guaranteed to be.