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I wouldn't do that, I'd look for a set that increase the front and rear roll stiffness by the same amount. 1mm more on an 18mm bar is going to be different than 1mm more on 14mm bar. |
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I don't think he got that at all, and that's what I was pointing out. End links or attached directly to the strut, the only independent movement is through the sway bar twisting. We definitely agree on that, I was clarifying for the other guy. |
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Of course, for most of us, myself included, ballpark is all that matters. |
I wouldn't remove the swaybars from a suspension that was designed to work with them. The only application I can think of it would be off-roading usage, but this is not very relevant to our platform.
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Also keep in mind that even though the rate rises exponentially, it's still a relatively small fraction of the total roll resistance at that wheel. As mentioned before, it's generally a tuning device if your existing setup is close to what you like. |
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Again, platform dependent. There was a popular suspension outfit at one point who had a very fast kit for A1 chassis VWs which did away with the front swaybar completely, and used a gigantic Carrera bar in the rear... The cars were undeniably quick, so the setup worked; it was just quite unconventional compared to the majority of other kits at the time. |
The difference in effective wheel rate you get from going 1 mm stiffer in front vs 1 mm in the rear is a good point many often miss.
But what I think @Ultramaroon was getting at was...even if you increase front and rear wheel rates by exactly the same 10%, you could still be changing the handling balance of the car. - Andrew |
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Agree, having owned an EK in the past. Honda Tech's race forum is riddled with large rear hollow bars and over sprung rear rates. Not uncommon to see 12K front and 18K rear. Recently the front biased stagger is becoming the norm. A lot of Japanese tuners use this to get the car to rotate better to great effect. |
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