Confused about my alignment. Suggestions?
 

Just installed RSR ClubRacer coils (and some whiteline rear LCAs) myself and went to a shop recommended by a local FRS owner to get an alignment, I've only ever previously had it aligned at the dealer before installing coils/just had springs and camber bolts. I removed my camber bolts after installing my coils.

I was looking to run -2.6 in the front and -1.5 camber in the rear, hoping for zero toe on all four corners but also realized it may be difficult to get that exactly with just my Whiteline rear LCAs and no toe arms, but I didn't think they were necessary?

Current ride heights are ~5inches from floor to pinch weld front and 5.25icnhes rear.

Here are the results and I'm a little confused, I did ask and they said they were not able to take out any more rear camber. Is there something I am missing here? Anybody have any suggestions? I confess I am by no means an expert on this so want to give things the benefit of the doubt, but it doesn't look like things are close, and I've heard of people getting zero toe on their setups while being able to dial out (at least some of) the negative camber that comes with the rear drop.

And Im not sure the fronts were even touched at all.

So are you saying that the factory toe arms lacked enough adjustment for the alignment tech to take out any rear camber? It’s a multi-link setup so adjusting toe impacts camber and vice versa.


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In the rears this is potentially what is going on, but when I did my research it seems that with my ~1.25 inch drop in the rear people were able to dial out a lot of that negative camber with just whiteline LCAs without the need for aftermarket toe arms. They did clearly take out a lot of the toe in the rear.

I certainly didn't expect a perfect result given removing neg. camber in the rear will impact the toe and the factory adjustment will have its limits, but thought it would be closer than -2.5 in the rears and was wondering if anybody else can weigh in if this seems reasonable or not.

I would be disappointed with that alignment. Is your steering wheel straight?

How much lower than stock are you?

- Andrew

I'm lowered 1", Eibach Pro Kit. With SPC (Moog) LCAs i was about to get the rear toe to 0*6" with -1*23" of camber. Minutes, not decimals, so close to -1.5*. I did not install the offset toe bushings, and I believe I still had a bit of room in all directions.

That front alignment is terrible... Absolutely no excuse for cross camber and .10 steer ahead.



I would find a shop that cares about the work they produce. Setting the alignment to green and pushing it out the door is not what you're after. They didn't even bother setting it to the green. That's a poor excuse for an alignment.

My after, for what it's worth. You just have to give a shit, it isn't hard.

https://www.ft86club.com/forums/atta...1&d=1549999293

Current drop isn't massive, it left it at the recommended setting from RSR and I think it's about 1.25-1.5 inch drop total.

I don't think they touched the front alignment.

Part of why I was skeptical was thinking maybe it's my mistake not getting rear toe arms but from what I read it seemed that people with similar drops didn't have a problem getting rid of that rear negative camber with whiteline LCAs, even with the limits of the factory toe adjustment. Very disappointing looking at -2.5 in the rear

It does drive straight at least it felt fine on short drive home

I would agree they did not do anything in the front. Change in thrust angle accounts for the steer ahead moving a bit.

Again, that isn't an alignment. That is vaguely setting the rear camber and toe and calling it done. I've never heard of that in my life, 15+ years in shops.

The front alignment baffles me, anybody have any ideas why the toe is like that as well? I don't think they touched my top hats to try and get the specs I asked for in the front. There's plenty of camber adjustment left in top hat

Was the mechanic from Montreal?

They're probably not used to messing with camber plates - so they didn't touch 'em
In some ways camber bolts are easier to adjust on an alignment rack since they can be reached from underneath, but that shouldn't prevent a good shop from doing what you ask. Unfortunately time to look for another shop imho, look for places that do racecars.

You don't need any more parts, factory rear toe adjustment is plenty for what you want.

Thanks for the input.

I was told they could align coilovers and when I called to setup a time I asked the lady on the phone if they could do an alignment to custom specs with coilovers and she went to ask and returned to say they could. I debated leaving the camber bolts on but figured my camber plates would be enough.

Im not even sure they touched my rear LCAs. She assured me that the -2.5 was as close as they could get the rear wheels even though I asked for -1.5, I'm not sure what to say about the front. Zero toe shouldn't be hard to achieve in the front, even if they werent going to mess with the camber plates?

You're right, it should've been a cakewalk to fix that which is why my recommendation is to just go to a different shop, the numbers just scream someone who said 'good enough' without even hitting the halfway point.

The rear camber/toe can confuse some people, I could give a shop a bit of slack on that and improperly installing the cam bolt on them might prevent getting the desired alignment, but the front is as straightforward as it gets I think.

Who knows what they did. They did not do an alignment.

While adjusting rear camber will move the toe around, moving the toe doesn't really change camber.

You set rear camber first, then toe. Thrust angle determines your steering center, then you adjust front camber/caster. Last thing you set front toe. Swing for caster once again and the "after" screen shows up.

Find a new shop, either a sports car type place, or a place with cool stuff parked outside. Someone in there should care.

Thats what Im thinking. I should've checked the specs before leaving but its also a Friday afternoon and I needed my car, but am tempted to just cut my losses and find a new shop.

Not aligning anything on the front is baffling, the rear I can almost give a pass to if they weren't familiar with the rear lower control arm setup whiteline uses, who knows.

Either way I will live with this alignment for the next 3 weeks at least until i can find time to get things fixed.

I appreciate your input a lot, thank you