I don't think cavitation at the bearings is causing damage or even happening (I don't know really).
I think this is the chain of effects:
restrictive pump inlet -> low inlet pressure -> cavitation at the pump -> decreased oil mass output from the pump + huge pressure oscillations -> decreased oil pressure / flow in the main gallery -> oil starvation at the bearings (rod bearings 2 +3 are the most damaged usually because of the shared oiling)
Now there's another big variable that complicates things which is the PRV. Exactly how much it contributes to the above conditions in the FA20 engine is unknown to me, but it's easy to see that when it opens it creates turbulent flow right at the pump's inlet so it can only make things worse. Chris from Killer B has studied this deeply in the EJ engine and thinks it contributes a LOT.
Reducing the pressure drop between the pump's outlet and the main gallery (by doing the modifications I did) can only contribute to keep the PRV shut more and help with this. Adding shims to increase the PRV opening pressure also helps.
The way to study the PRV's behavior is simple (but I don't think I'll be the one to do it): tap the pump's outlet as close to the PRV opening as possible and install a pressure sensor the way I did in the inlet. Analysing that pressure in relation to the pressure in the main gallery and the pump's inlet would allow us to get a very deep insight on the PRV and the lubrication system for this engine in general (doing this in a bone stock engine would also be very interesting).
With my 2.0 mm shims I've measured a 17.0 kg opening force for the PRV which means 8.3 bar (16.0 mm PRV piston diameter). You would think it's not opening if my oil pressure sensor indicates 4.0 bar, but if there's enough pressure increase from the main gallery (where I measure oil pressure) to the pump's outlet (where the PRV is) it might very well be dancing around.
Measuring the pressure right at the PRV would tell us exactly.
Just as an example:
https://i.imgur.com/YETiTtC.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/IjJiGqy.jpg
You can see the big (~ 1.0 bar) pressure drop between both measuring points. It's almost double than what my complete JDL oil cooler creates. Only after seeing this is that I decided to make more extreme modifications (like modifying the block's entrance for a bigger oring) to the galleries that take the oil from the pump to the main gallery in the block.
Please remember all this is to increase oil flow TO THE CRANK. The heads have different entrances (although some parts are shared) and I haven't touched them. Increasing oil flow to the crank will not create oil return problems in a boxer engine because the oil drops directly to the pan.
Having said this, I have ALSO ported and improved the head oil return ducts to the pan (many obvious spots that can me improved) and installed a Bluemoon Performance baffled oil plate to help get the oil to the pan more efficiently and keep it there.
And just to make it clear, I embarked in all this craziness only AFTER having oil starvation engine failures with a stock lubrication system. If my engine would have survived without problems, I probably would've never even disassembled the oil pump in the first place and would've spent all my time tuning, trying to make more power and enjoying the car at the track.