For those interested here are some updates. Parts are here, silicone is cleaned up and starting the reverse process.

Took quite some time blowing out and picking out anywhere I could possibly see the possibility if silicone bits making their way.

The clearance to the valves seem unchanged as well, even with the new rocker arm, which is awesome . And the leak down test still showing good on all 4.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b9d93bceda.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...41fab7bbe6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...eaad63ee0d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...d2fd16c5f5.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...ba298d479c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...8a49e58e25.jpg[IMG]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190626/c4d7d1126439cd93b36568eb6***d17a.jpg[/IMG]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...7aecd13c64.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...8e0372edcb.jpg

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Hoping to start torquing down both sets of cams today and maybe try to get the timing chains on. Going to wait to put on the valve covers until the timing chains are on so I can give it a few spins manually and verify everything is looking visually ok. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...6126c501ae.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...d89a048803.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...61a08b67b9.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...5e483075cc.jpg

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Clean engine is clean, very nice.

Thanks man. At this point I wouldn't be surprised if I have more time in cleaning everything than actual pulling/tare down.

After going through this exercise I certainly see how there are 90+ some cases of failed motors due to oil pickup blockage. With the amount of time covered by toyota/subaru for these techs it is pretty hard to get it done properly I would imagine.. this stuff literally goes everywhere. Even with the gasket remover spray and a bunch of new plastic razors it all comes off in small bits and pieces and wedges everywhere. I spent 30 minutes yesterday turning the motors in various angles and blowing it all out just to make sure I get as much as possible out. Once its all together I'm planning on doing just straight flushing the motor a couple of times to see if I can get small bits and pieces to wash out from anywhere using the oil I drained (going to strain it to make sure it goes in clean to begin with).

Then it will be time to get working with the FIPG... which im not too crazy on doing but im sure without rushing and taking my time i'll do a good enough job.

Whats crazy is that even from the factory, you can see how inconsistent the FIPG went on. The RH bank cams even had excess gasket material stuck to them from where it squezed out from under the cam caps :confused0068:

Love that rear spoiler!

I remember doing the "rope trick" on my Integra when I had to replace the valve seats. Worked pretty well.

Yeah I was looking at the pics and and thought "Rope!?" I learned to do it with compressed air.

Yes cleaning is terribly time consuming. I did the timing cover last week on a 3.6 WK2 GC. I actually beat the book time by a comfortable margin, but half of the time I spent scraping gasket, even if you know you've save a lot of time and you can take your time to clean it well, it's hard to not get impatient, it's even harder when the engine's in the hole and you can't put your face in it.

Also, I'm always under the impression that asking a toyota tech to pull an engine isn't a reasonable request, not only do they probably not do that kind of thing very often, but it's also a subaru. I wouldn't be surprised if a subaru tech took half to a third of the time to pull it out versus a toyota tech, which probably adds to the time crunch.

^thats for damn sure. Though if they did multiple recalls they would have probably gotten much faster, but to your point, yes, its definitely out of the scope of their every day work.

Thank you on the spoiler! I loved how simple it was. I also switched out the badges to black ones yesterday and have some other goodies that delivered yesterday and one more box coming today that will really change up the rear of the car :)

Got my first hands-on experience with the FIPG on this motor. It was nerve racking. To get the bead straight, exactly on edge where they illustrate AND have it fall within the thickness tolerance takes skill that I do not yet posses lol. I would say to apply it JUST like they illustrate is damn near impossible. I imagine at the factory they have robots that zip around and apply this in the consistency they need, but not by hand.
Installed the cams and the cams, as well as fuel pump and air pump ( all of which took some FIPG). Now hoping like hell that I didnt get on too thick in some places, and too thin in other. I am at a point where I think I would much prefer a small leak (IF I HAD TO CHOSE**) vs a clogged pickup/spun bearing. Was definitely good practice for the main cover which may go on tonight or tomorrow. we will see...

A few quick pictureshttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...c727f0a703.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...320da9787b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...23baa5dcc8.jpg

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Let's just say another box showed up today. Really need to get on with getting the motor together bc visually the car is just about ready to go :)https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...fa0691392b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...682597ede6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...bfea606d23.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...8b895e407b.jpg

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I've stripped my motor apart and reassembled a couple times now. The biggest thing you need to worry about is cleaning the mating surface and also the inside edge surface well. That way the squeeze that happens to the inside sticks well to the aluminum. That way it won't break loose. Getting it straight and exact size isn't as important as everyone claims it to be as long as you don't put excessive fipg on.

Thanks man, thats definitely reassuring, and also what I kind of figured. I definitely spent a lot of time cleaning every every possible mating edge . I'll degrease it once more on both pieces before doing the FIPG on the front cover.

I find it the most difficult to get a good consistent bead around the small round parts, im dumbfounded that these didn't just use regular O-rings lol.

I simply used a few disposable rags sprayed with brake cleaner to wipe the surfaces down prior to application of the fipg.
There shouldnt really be any small round parts except for the 5 on the front cover where they use the 10mm bolts.
I also tried a plastic razor, but they work worth a shit. I used a normal razor and scrape the edges with the blade backwards. This way it won't cut into the aluminum. Cleans up well that way.

FIPG, well applied and bonded to a clean surface will last the life of the engine, o-rings WILL get dry and hard then leak.

Fantastic job. Thx for sharing your experience with us.