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STX setup sharing thread (2019)
There is an older “STX setup sharing” thread but things definitely change over the years. I thought it would be nice to start a new thread for anyone that would like to share their current STX setup and give feedback on how it’s working for them so people new to the class can see what is working and people contemplating setup changes can find some guidance. When I ran STS there was a new “STS setup” thread every year on Miata.net and it was interesting to see how the setups changed and what people were trying. For reference, there is also a lot of good discussion and development going on in this thread which will undoubtedly remain a good ongoing resource:
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showt...=25779&page=90 Here is the original STX setup thread: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showt...ht=stx+sharing This is my setup: 2015 BRZ, ~32k miles (usually raced as #68 or 86) Color: Red Suspension - Dampers: KW V3, adjusted pretty soft. Springs: 350F/325R Sway bars: Perrin front on full stiff, Whiteline 16mm set soft Alignment & suspension settings - Ride height: Haven’t measured lately but it’s High. Roughly 5 1/4" at the pinch welds last time I measured. Alignment: -3.5 camber/0 toe front, -2.4/ 0 toe rear Engine & drivetrain - Exhaust: HKS EL header (wrapped), everything else stock. Intake: Perrin CAI and elbow with lots of fancy gold space shuttle wrapping paper. ECU: ECUTEK tune. Whiteline transmission mount insert and shifter bushing. Diff: stock Wheels/Tires, etc - Wheels: 17x9 Enkei RPF-1 45mm offset 10mm spacers and extended ARP lug studs in the front. Tires: BFGoodrich Rival S 1.5 (245/40-17). 27-28 PSI depending on the lot. less than 27 has not worked well with only 3.5 degrees of camber. Brakes: HP+ front and rear. Battery: Braile 11.5 lb. Other: Steering rack bushings, diff and subframe bushings are waiting to be installed, AMSOIL fluids in the engine, transmission and diff. This is the first year racing this car, since my FR-S was totaled on the way home from Bristol last year. Currently the car feels very good at higher speeds generally but as one might expect with the unusual spring selection, it is quite pushy at lower speeds. I will be making adjustments to correct that and get it balanced out before the Finger Lakes Tour. The springs will end up something closer to square or I'll just swap them end for end. As it is, the car has proven itself reasonably competitive already this year, though nobody good enough to show that has driven it. The car took second at the Dixie Tour and had the fastest time in class on day 1 at the Charlotte Tour and the second fastest time on day 2, but with different drivers, so no overall finish worth mentioning. The softer springs provide outstanding grip in high speed sweepers and transitioning is still great. Unfortunately there is no amount of trail braking that is going to get it to rotate at lower speeds at this point, but that will be fixed soon. Edited 4/27/19 to update spring rate/swaybar changes. |
Suspension/Align
ProParts Megans - 6k/7k (350/400) 8-12 clicks from soft front, 18-24 clicks rear From pinch: 5 1/8" front, 4 5/8" rear F: -4.3 camber, 0 toe R: -2.5 camber, 1/16 total toe-in 22mm Perrin on medium SPC arms w/ FRSport delrin inserts Engine Tomei UEL, HPS Tube, Perrin filter, Perrin 2.5" cat-back, custom OFT tune Wheel/Tire/Brake Both 245/40/17 REs and Rivals for whatever surface 17x9 TRM C4, +35 front +40 rear (spacers) Ferodo DS 1.11 front, DS2500 rear, GT3 front ducts Car works fine and can run with upper mid pack easy. Will not beat well setup cars with awesome drivers. Needs a diff, Mann rear bar, good EL header and full exhaust with custom tune to make up the difference. Also could use some more rear rate as it sits. |
This was set-up from 4 years ago but lap time still stands
2013 GT86 auto This set-up was very understeery. Since it was a street car we decided it was safer. On other proper racecars, different shocks and spring rates turned it into another animal. Ohlins 380lbs spring ft and rear 3 clicks hard rear 8 clicks hard front Cusco fender braces Tanabe lower front sub brace Toyota hardend frame bolts Whiteline 22mm front sway (set loose) Whiteline 18mm rear (set medium) Whiteline rear sub bushing (full bushing) CF drive shaft JP auto works A/T vacuum delete 5:1 Final Drive (OEM diff) Airaid intake Delicious FF tune ACE A350 header and front pipe RacerX front LCA's (solid bushings) RacerX rear UCA's RacerX rear LCA's TRD door latches front caynards Perrrin steering rack bushings Hardrace stiff motor mounts Rays 17x8.5 SL's (37et) 20mm spacers rear only Maxxis RC-1 235/40/17 (treadwear 100) AP 5200 Sprint kit (ft only) CL-6 sintered pads (ft and rear) Essex "harness" bar 51.3% cross weight 45% rear weight 5.6 caster LF (I forget, have to check notes) 5.5 caster RF (I forget, have to check notes) 4* camber LF 2.5* camber RF 4* camber LR 2* camber RR 2mm toe out front 0 toe rear 57cm ride height LF (measured from center of hub to fender with driver (78kg) 57cm ride height RF 57.7cm ride height LR 57.5cm ride height RR total weight 1218.6kg with driver (2681lbs) Link to tire temps: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=80118 Old video: 50+ cars on track, start at around 2:15 for hot laps [ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mL7uYz5_3bk&t=277s[/ame] |
This has been my STX setup for a few years now. Planning to finally add camber plates when I get my coilovers rebuilt at the end of this season.
2013 Scion FRS Suspension Dampers: RCE Tarmac 2's (Recommended Settings) Springs: 400F/400R Sway Bars: Strano front, stock rear Rear LCA: Whiteline (stamped steel version) Endlinks: Whiteline adjustable (shorter version) Alignment & Suspension Settings Ride Height: 13.25" hub center to fender Alignment: -2.7 camber, 0 toe front | -2.2 camber, 1/16” toe-in rear Engine & Drivetrain Exhaust: Perrin 2.5" Resonated Header: JDL UEL Intake: Stock box with K&N filter and Perrin tube ECU: OFT Stage 2 Wheels/Tires, etc Wheels: 17x9 Enkei RPF1 35mm offset Tires: Bridgestone RE-71R (245/40-17) Brakes: Winmax W3 Battery: Shorai 5 lb Bushings: Steering Rack, Shifter, Differential, Subframe |
My car just bought in January this year after years of ****ering around with other chassis (yaris, s2000, rx8, 2.5rs coupe and a ND1)
Purpose: Be the ultimate combo of street-able, track-able and STX classing. Able to go from auto-x to the hpde's up north and be driven between the two. So stock seat, add a little more of everything but keep Reliability near max With how I drive, I wanted the car to rotate on all four wheels vs just oversteer with the back. So at the very limit there is some understeer to make it more stable mid corner. I have a messed up driving line and perspective (years of awd driving and rally-schools have sort of improved and worsened my driving philosophy) 2015 Scion FRS -> BRZ tS clone 35.6k Miles, second owner Raced as number #400 Suspension : Shocks: Koni Adjustable Yellows. I have the fronts at 1 3/4 turn hard ( outta 2) Rears at 1.5 turns, and i change rears more if the surface is smoother or rougher) Bumpstops: Stock FRS Springs: Swift Spec-R (4.4 kg front/ 5.3 kg rear) Sway Bars: Whiteline Sway Bar 22mm front Adjustable/ Whiteline 18mm Rear Adjustable (Front set full tight, rear set middle) Endlinks: Whiteline adjustable front and rear ( Buy the vehicle kit from whiteline) Rear LCA: Cuscio V2.0 Adjustable rear, for toe and camber adjustment Front Camber Bolts: Whiteline Strut Tower Tie: STI Flexible Strut tower Extra: Lower Flexible Draw stiffener from 2015 JDM tS (the 2018 usdm ts uses a different set up) Alignment & Suspension Settings Ride Height: 13.25" hub center to fender (About 1.5" lower than stock) Alignment: Front Camber: -2.25 * ( stock top hats whiteline camber bolts only) Rear Camber: -2.0 rear ( cusco rear could dial in 3.25 from what the guy said) Front Total Toe: 1/16 out Rear Total Toe: 1/16 in Front Caster Matched: 8 Degrees (again stock top hats) Engine & Drivetrain Exhaust: OE Headers: OE Axle-back: JD Muffler Delete with Muffler delete cap ( it was cheap..) Intake: Stock box with K&N filter. ECU: OFT Stage 2 W/85 Tune Soon: Crawford intake manifold spacer with Aluminum intake that has been flow matched ( secret sauce from the old wrx days in the 00s) Differential: 17+ Swapped 4.3 stock LSD, Motul 300 Gear oil filled Wheels/Tires, etc Wheels: 18x7.5 Subaru OE tS Rims 35mm offset Tires: Humho V720 (225/40-18) Brake Calipers: OE Brake Pads: Stoptech Brake Rotors: Stoptech Slotted Brake Lines: Stoptech Braided Battery: OE Bushings: OE Interior: Titan Racing shift knob Schroth 3 point ASM DOT legal harness Verus Engineering Throttle spacer Clutch Spring Delete Soon: 949 Racing Steering Wheel spacer Exterior Soon; BRZ tS wing, 2018 Brz bumper, with fog delete, Verus Engineering hood vents Im sure I am forgetting something, once iget the alignment set up Ill post it. Im thinking -2 camber front. -2 rear, slight toe out up front, toe neutral in the rear. and as much caster as we can find. not excessive but itll get stability for streeting driving. |
I'm intrigued by the setups that are way outside of being STX legal (well, @Doozer seems to have posted setup on a track car... not sure if it's actually autocrossed in STX). Does no one care? Is it just not competitive locally so it doesn't matter?
2017 Limited PP BRZ RCE T3's, currently 8k square RaceSeng front cas/cam RaceSeng rear -1" tops. Strano FSB Mann RSB, stiffest setting RacerX rear LCA with STX legal bushing Whiteline swaybar endlinks, F&R Whiteline rear subframe inserts Whiteline diff mount inserts Whiteline steering rack bushings SPC rear toe-arms (probably not legal, also no performance benefit... except when I'm doing alignments where they're infinitely better than the eccentrics.) Ace 350 header, ceramic coated 3" catted/resonated front-pipe Thermal R&D catback Grimmspeed intake EcuTek, Delicious (remote) tuned Kartboy shifter insert Kartboy short-shifter non-PP rear brake calipers AP Sprint front calipers Ferodo DS2500 (for now...) Spiegler stainless lines F&R Grimmspeed hood struts Shorai 5lb battery RacerX catch can RaceSeng Sphereology shift knob Cusco accelerator pedal cover STi lip and side skirts, spats soon as I fix them Off the car at the moment: Grimmspeed front strut tower brace; also have 7k and 9k springs (ran 7f/9r the first year I had the T3's) wheels/tires: 17x9+35 TC105n with 245/40/17 RE71r (3rd season) 17x9+40 949 6ul with 245/40/17 Rival S (also 3rd season) have a test-n-tune + event on a concrete site in 2 weeks, which is the reason I haven't put the 255/40/17 RE71's onto wheels quite yet... Ride height: approx 30mm drop pre corner-balance Front camber: -3.8° Front toe: 0.1° toe out Front caster: max (~6.8°) Rear camber: -2.5° Rear toe: -.07° toe in Car weighs in at around 2800lbs with me in it and a quarter tank of gas, give or take. Toe arms, as noted, are not legal (almost for sure... I forget if that' ever been challenged). There is also no performance benefit I can identify; still regular rubber bushings, slightly larger metal bit... and SO much less headache doing alignments. Were I running anything but locals, I'd go back to stock - but I'd also align with these then swap, to get the RLCA set right and then only have to get the toe arms back to the right place for both toe and camber to be correct. None of my local competitors have cared so far - if someone did, I'd do the switch again. I have a Verus rear diffuser I haven't put back on the '17 (only just found the drill template), but I created a custom mount solution so it's a ~2 minute removal, ~5 minute reinstall - I don't autocross with it on the car. Current challenges: confidence, rain performance (driver a huge part) and top speed is too low. Taller tires will help a tiny bit on the latter, thus the 255 switch. Practice will help with the former... so far it's been ~40° temps and stuff falling from the sky in various stages of existence (not always liquid... in fact, we had to delay an event a couple hours to let ice on course melt...) for the two events we've had, and it looks like for this coming Sunday as well. Crazy me is considering 225 re71's on 8" wheels for rain days... Also a diff if the budget comes around again. |
@cjd That's a really nice setup! I'm especially jealous of that Ace 350 header. Did you find the Mann rear swaybar to make a significant difference? I've considered getting one.
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The '17 has a stiffer (stock) rear bar and I wanted to be changing fewer things when I had to shift everything over to the '17 from the '14, so I got the Mann rear bar - and I'm basically using it where it matches the stock '14 sway, so I haven't explored how it works on softer settings... that's part of what the test-n-tune is for! Also for LFB practice. I'm tempted to switch to the Karcepts front sway, but man is that pricey, and I don't know if it matters right now. I mean, I get it, but... probably diff first. I had money for that this year, then a furnace died and my tax cuts cost me 7% more (income went down, taxes went up) so... maybe next year. Ace was mostly because I couldn't find a replacement Nameless header... that got crushed in the crash. I think the Ace is a little better overall though - definitely doesn't have the dip the Nameless did. And the tune is SO much better than what I used to have. So well balanced for autocross. And the 3" FP was noticeable at the top, just doesn't quite feel like it wheezes, where it did with the stock FP. Confidence + pulling it all together and I could be fast. |
2017 Toyota 86 - #337
Suspension : Whiteline MaxG Coilovers (AST5100 Single Adjustable) 6kg Swift Springs Front/Rear Vorshlag Camber Plates Stock Sway Bars Alignment & Suspension Settings Ride Height: Front | 13.5" hub center to fender Rear | 13.75" hub center to fender Alignment: Front | -3.5* Camber, 0 Toe, 7* Caster Rear | -2.25* Camber, 1/16th Total Toe In Engine & Drivetrain Thermal R&D Catback OpenFlash Performance V3 Header with overpipe Stock Front Pipe OFT OTS Stage 2+ Tune Perrin Oil Cooler Wheels/Tires/Brakes: 17x9, +40, Konig Hypergram or Konig Dekagram Bridgestone RE-71r (245/40/17) AP Racing Spring BBK Porterfield R4-S Pads Front & Rear A few thoughts on set up. These cars seem to like square rates with the stock sway bars. With a bigger front bar it favors a touch more rear spring than front from what I can tell. I like the square rates for autocross but suspect they will be a little twitchy on a high speed track. I generally run lower spring rates than most set ups due to our local lot being incredibly rough but I like the softer set up on the street. For my uses it's plenty fast and regularly one of the fastest STX cars locally. |
Thanks for all the responses so far. It really looks like setups have not changed too terribly much since 2013 when we have the most posts from the older thread.
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I want to post mine up in full detail after I get a set of fresh tires and a few events in them, hopefully being much more competitive than I have been. But here's the quick rundown because I'm in full support of this thread. tldr setup: I'm copying Tony's setup notes above with similar alignment and such based on what Jeff Wong developed in 2017, there probably isn't a better budget autox solution for this car than ProParts right now. ProParts Megans F-6k R-7k Tomei EL header, stock exhaust from the header back (I like quiet) OFT with WayneRom canned tune RPF1s 17x9 +45 with a 5mm spacer on all corners (ARP extended studs and gorilla steel extended lugs) Bridgestone RE71R 245/40/17 Ferodo DS2500 pads on stock calipers and discs Edit forgot some details: Front Swaybar: Whiteline 20mm - full stiff, works well on a warm grippy day, but in cold and damp I'm getting a push which I think softening will help with. Rear Sway: Stock RacerX Rear LCA's with STX legal bushings The technically illegal SPC rear Toe arms (both by letter clarification and percentage of metal) but I really don't see any benefit other than making my life easier DIY alignment changes, If I got to a serious event they'll come off and stock will go back on. I want the Karcepts front bar (in case someone reading this doesn't know about it), but probably won't buy it this year unless I decide to make a run at Nats in this car and I have time to test it. Front camber is at -4.1° and I think I'll be upping it to -4.3° after scrubbing in another set and paying attention to outer edge heat after a run, if you're serious I'd be surprised if you're much less than -4.0° up front on an STX car these days. This is my only car, it gets DD duty since I bought it over six years ago, currently at 78k miles, replaced a few coil packs and replaced the clutch a few weeks ago, it's been great! I've tried a few parts, some I liked, some I didn't, Raceseng Camber Plates and top hats, Mann Rear Bar, Nameless muffled catback, Bilstein, I've had Eibach, Hyperco and Swift springs on the car, Motul, Redline, Royal Purple fluids, Dunlop Z2SS, MPSS, Firestone Indy 500's, this is a great car to tinker and learn on. https://scontent-mia3-2.xx.fbcdn.net...b3&oe=5D34634C |
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However! Wheel offset can be a noticeable change in handling, going with the +45's and extended studs means I can easily go +10 on each wheel and play with it, wish I could say I did it on purpose but I lucked into it and I'm glad I have the option. (as you can see Tony is running staggered up above, and he's underselling himself, he's got a good setup going) I forgot to mention sway bars in my above post: Front: Whiteline 20mm swaybar - full stiff, works well on a warm grippy day, but in cold and damp I'm getting a push which I think softening will help with. Rear: Stock I want the Karcepts front bar (in case someone reading this doesn't know about it), but probably won't buy it this year unless I decide to make a run at Nats in this car and I have time to test it. Quote:
Honestly, zero offense intended to anyone/everyone in this thread, but there's only one driver/car combo in this so far that I'd put money on to trophy at nats so take everything with a grain of salt. Cheers to making the thread though, I think sharing info makes everyone faster, even if it's from a scrub like myself. :burnrubber: |
I'm exploring more camber this year, may go up more in front. Also may try a 1k lower front spring vs rear later in the season. Trade-offs. I think wet/cold/ crap surface suffers at higher rates, and grippy loves it. Especially in how the car works through hard transitions: slaloms and offsets, and how you can apply throttle, how late you can brake. So not sure if that means up in the back or down in the front. 2k spread was too snappy for my liking.
Or maybe I'll just drive it and have fun. |
Another setup
I'm enjoying this thread! I posted my previous setup, about three years ago. I've learned a lot since then, and changed a few things around.
The advice to copy the top finishing cars is very good advice. I try to do this, but I'm still convinced to do some R&D on my car occasionally. For this year, I traded in my 2013 Limited BRZ and bought a 2013 Premium BRZ. My previous car had some issues I didn't care for, primarily with fitment of everything, and a mystery engine power issue. I drove enough other BRZs and FRSs in the last year to know they all vary slightly, and mine was a dud. I sold that car to someone who has the time, inclination, and ability, to fix it. Regarding the mystery engine power issue: after I sold my Limited, and bought a different Premium, WTY-84 was announced! I have not autocrossed my current 2013, yet, and I'm getting the recall work done next week at a dealer who is performing 10 of these a week (lots of Imprezas). I'm feeling good about the outcome. Suspension Dampers: RCE Tarmac 3's (Recommended valving) Springs: 500F/500R (aka 9k) Sway Bars: Whiteline 22mm adjustable front (full stiff), Mann 13mm adjustable rear (medium) Rear LCA: SPC with DIF bushing Front Endlinks: Hotchkis adjustable (custom shortened) Rear Endlinks: Perrin polyurethane Alignment & Suspension Settings Ride Height: 33cm hub center to fender (higher than last year) Slow speed: 4 from soft Highspeed: 4 from soft Rebound: 10 from soft Alignment: -3.6 camber, 1/8" toe out front | -2.6 camber, 1/16" toe in rear | ~6 caster front (I stopped trying to change my KPA) KW recessed front camber plates for Club Sports MSI rear strut mount plates, custom KW spring perches Engine & Drivetrain WTY-84 (lol) Header: nameless 4-2-1 (custom fab 2.5") Exhaust: 2.5" custom Intake: Stock box with K&N filter and Mishimoto inlet ECU: EcuTek custom tune LSD: Guard Transmission Wheels/Tires, etc Wheels: 17x9 Enkei RPF1 45mm offset Tires: Bridgestone RE-71R, BFG Rival S 1.5 or Michelin Pilot Sport 4S (245/40-17) Brakes: Stock calipers, Hawk HP+ pads, DBA 5000 front rotors Battery: Shorai 5 lb Bushings: Yes, Whiteline and SuperPro. The remaining stock ones are on the differential, but those have Whiteline inserts. Similar to the statement from a fellow poster, I do drive a different car in ice racing, I have gone to a Dirtfish two-day class, The Subaru Winter Experience with Patrik Sandell (of Subaru Motorsports and ARX), and I'm always thinking a little bit different about car setup and lines on course because of that. |
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On wheel offset: I was at +35 all around and the car was fine, but I would hit cones with the rear tires more often than not without realizing. After talking to Terence a little he mentioned staggering the offset and after I did that, no more phantom slalom cones. Seriously Jon & Terence did a ridiculously good job of setting up that car. It's not surprising, but damn I don't think I could ever do it as well as they did. |
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Top line summary is what I mentioned in my setup post. Good EL header and full exhaust with custom tune, OSGiken, Mann rear bar and some spring rate changes. The EL has more top end without sacrificing the midrange gain, OSG stabilizes the car on entry and puts down power better on exit, rear bar and springs are to compensate for the OSG's handling characteristics. |
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I'm checking temps, yes. They're inconsistent depending on temps and surface. Or because I am. Or both. Easy change for me though, so trying some things and checking data. |
iirc that car was 5k F, 9k R, AST triple adjustables with Mann engineering assistance who I believe would happily assist most anyone in getting the right parts on the car. @oinojo posted something about it I think in a thread about ride height started by @cjd @jwisjw posted in there too about the travel he gets on the Megans (and I was a **** non believer back then)
The trick does seem to be diff+spring+bar with that setup as I struggled with an almost identical spring setup on the stock diff and bar, but there were certainly other factors affecting me back then. On temps I've done stupid things because that's what the temps told me, like running 37 psi hot and thinking -3 camber was enough. Test with a clock, watch wear patterns, explore the envelope when you can to make sure you're in the right spot. |
Here's my setup, going on 2nd year without any real changes.
Suspension MCS 2WR, 400/400 rates with Raceseng CasCam in front and 1" hats in back Racer-X RLCA with a custom housing for DIF delrin bushings Perrin adjustable front 22mm), Mann 13mm adjustable rear (usually set to medium) Whiteline KLC180-195 front endlinks Racer-X rear endlinks All the whiteline poly things: diff inserts, subframe inserts Alignment Camber: -3.5*F, around -2*R Toe: 0 front, slightest toe in for the rear Caster: 6*? ish? irrc Haven't measured ride height in a long time, but I am probably going to go to 4* or more of camber on my next alignment, just to try to keep off the shoulders. Engine/Drivetrain bits ACE A-350 JDL Ultra Quiet Front Pipe Perrin 2.5" resonated catback K&N Panel filter Perrin intake elbow thing Full sized battery (lol) ECUtek with tune from VitViper LSD: OS Giken with "stx" tune (1-way and whatever other special sauce thrown in) Wheels/tires: 2 sets of Konig Hypergrams, 17x9 +40 1 set of Konig Ultraforms, 17x9 +40 1 set of Kosei K6R, 17x9 +42 1 set of Enkei rpf1, 17x9 +35 (daily driver setup, Conti ECS). The only other that I have that is a bit atypical is a Personal Grinta steering wheel with QR (and spacer weights to make it class legal). That's mostly for my comfort on long drives so I can sit how I want). If 949 comes out with the spacer for the stock steering wheel I'll probably add that back in. I bounce around between re71s and rivals for the autox stuff, depending on weather and location. For packwood the Re71s seems to do better, though on a warm summer event I'll run the rivals. For crow's landing the BFGs suit me better. I just flipped two sets of re71s and they're terrible so now those are Evo school or really small/bullshit local sets because of how bad they are lol. Of course the missing component to all this is talent. Womp womp. |
Hi tony_r, which wheel spacers are you using?
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Whoops wait wrong car...:lol: |
I'm pretty much full lemming here.
2016 Scion FRS: Suspension: MCS 2W Remotes - Custom Revalve & Piston 400/350 Rates Raceseng Camber Plates/Raceseng 1" Top Hats in Rear Front: -4.2* Camber, 0 Toe Rear: -2.5* Camber, 1/16" Total In Ride Height - Front Wheels 25" from floor to center of fender above wheel. Rear set for 1/8" Rake Perrin 22m Front bar set on Soft/McMaster Carr Custom Endlinks (Soon to be Karwan FSB) Mann Rear Bar set of Stiff (I adjust all the time though). RacerX Endlinks RacerX LCA Whiteline Subframe Insert Bushings Engine: aFe Momentum Intake JDL 4-2-1 Header JDL Ultra Quiet FP/OP Combo w/Cat Perrin 2.5" Exhaust MotoEast/XeroLimit Custom Dyno Tune Wheels/Tires/Misc AP Racing BBK w/Ferodo DS2500s RPF1s 17x9 +35 with 245/40/17 RivalS 1.5s Antigravity 680CA Battery w/PFTuning Tray IMO, car doesn't need a diff. Lugod is not stupid, he knows how to setup cars and clearly has mastered a setup around an OSG...however don't think you're going to instantly find seconds with going to an OSG. I could be wrong, but meh. Played around with spring rates. Ended up softer in the rear on purpose because I like running more shock when possible. Revalve for this season should help running less shock when needed for wet or asphalt conditions. Car is pretty much money on concrete IMO. Changed around alignment settings this year. Use to run -3.5* Up front and -1/16" out. So we'll see what does that. I think I was sacrificing some front grip. |
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End links look pretty simple compared to other cars that I've messed with. Internally threaded ball joint linkage - threaded rod - internally threaded ball joint linkage? Or is there more to it? |
I don't think the diff is necessary at all, I just happened to have some dollars burning a hole in my pocket, and I have an OSG in my s13 which I love (especially after swapping from torsen > OSG).
I have taken runs in other folks' cars and I like the torsen just fine. |
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Seriously though that Ricky guy seems like a rules twat. Also mad that he can't win in an S2000 :popcorn: Quote:
I don't have any issue with the Torsen, it works fine and will certainly get you to a win. Some prefer the looser entry and exit of the car, and that suits a certain driving style too. With an OSG I immediately noticed how stable the car was on entry and had to change how I approached corners. On exit, the lockup is faster and feels like the car thrusts forward rather than initiating a slide first. It also feels like the Torsen has to be "spooled" mid corner with maintenance throttle. Quote:
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Endlinks are easy. With MCS though you create inner clearance issues with the fender well where OTS endlinks are too big and like rub the inner fender. |
Looks like a lot of you guys are using 4-2-1 EL headers. I'm running a JDL UEL right now but have seriously thought about switching. Would it be worth the extra cost and effort?
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Big, but not crazy, there are bigger and I think the 22mm white line is stiffer based on the charts and word of mouth, maybe too stiff, 22mm Megan bar might be pretty close to the right thing as well with a 5-6k spring up front and stiffer rear spring. I've got a 20mm white line, seems to work good on warm concrete at full stiff but I got front end chatter at the last cool damp event and with hindsight would have tried softening it. I've got a 6k spring up front and was running the same bar with a 325# spring, a little more bar than what I've got would probably help but right now I don't think anything needs to run some 25+ mm monstrosity. Unless you've got less spring than that. |
im not competitive but posting anyway:
2017 brz PP 17x9 6UL with 255/40/17 conti ECS Ace350 K&N filter Perrin inlet tube CSG FLA with 1" drop winmax w2 5lb shorai battery alignment is -2.6 front with 1/8" toe out -2.1 back with 1/8" toe in I daily it so maybe if i gitgud ill put more into it |
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Came from a Tomei UEL. No back to back dyno (did dyno tuning at ME and remotely tuned for the new headed based off the old tune). The 4-2-1 EL still has a very good bump mid-RPM similar to UEL. IMO, it actually pulls harder at the 4k range. At top end, it doesn't choke out of air. It can still flow really well and runs hard to redline. Looking at virtual dyno, it still drops at ~6850 or so, but levels out quickly and pulls hard to redline. My dyno on the UEL, drop off starts at 6500 and goes off a cliff basically. So on the EL we were able to get a bump in torque at virtually HP max and mimic a UEL curve. The EL torque shelf is virtually flat, unlike the UEL where torque is low until the 4500 mark where it bumps and then drops off slightly. I have same torque figures (relatively) from 3800 to 6800. With all the being said, comes Lincoln's post Quote:
With that being said, not like the header I was previously on preventing me from being capable of winning... |
+1 if you don't already have ecutek going to the long tube header and custom tune is a $2k investment or more, I know I'd get a helluva lot of seat time and two sets of tires for that money, way more valuable for me than a few ponies. A few torques isn't going to make up for my dumb mistakes that are currently keeping me more than a second out from the fast guys.
JDL or Ace, maybe an old nameless if you can find it, the tomei I have is a 4-2-1 but it's a short tube header and doesn't have the same gains down low according to the box that the long tube headers have. |
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Plus if you're looking to upgrade eventually but aren't in any kind of hurry, just keep an eye on the local used market for a while. Eventually you may see an offer you can't refuse. I picked up PTuning EL for 550 that way. |
Okay I’ll play along and share.
2015 BRZ Suspension: RCE T2’s with 400f/450r with front RCE camber plates and Mooresport rear upper mounts. Whiteline 20mm front sway bar and endlinks with bar set to stiff. Mann Engineering rear bar with Racer X endlinks. Verus rear lower control arms with the STX legal bushings. Current alignment is -4.1 front with 1/16 toe out and -2.7 rear with 1/16 toe in. Ride height is 25” measured from top center of front fender to floor. Rear is 25.25” Power mods so far: Grimspeed intake, Tomei header and over pipe and Berk muffler delete. (Yes it drones on the highway lol) and a Kartboy crank pulley. Also Openflash tune. Misc. mods: Braille battery, AP Racing sprint front brake kit with Ferodo DS2500 pads front and rear. Wheels/tires: Enkei RPF1 17x9 +45 (fronts have 10mm spacers to clear AP Racing brakes) 245/40 Rival S 1.5 currently. Used to run 255/40 RE71’s. |
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