Yeah, I know that but I thought SXE10 was addressing someone else as 000 Racing has already specified what he would be running.

(5 minutes later)
Ah ok. Yeah,it makes sense now. My post was superfluous.

300V is fine for longer service intervals. There's plenty of UOA on BITOG to back this up, most of the yanks seem to do 5000mi (8000km) intervals when tested & it's still got plenty of active additive left.
There's no reason an ester based synthetic oil like 300V shouldn't be able to do 10K km intervals whether it's designed for racing or not. It's not the most cost effective option is why most people don't use it in their daily.

I had read that the case against racing oils for daily driving was their lack of detergent.
Hypothesis: in a new engine this is not so important.
Ahh the internet. So much information. Some of it correct :/

I found that the 300V UOA thread http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30803 & http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30742

Agreed about the internet ;)

I've been running castrol edge 5w-30 ever since my car hit 5000km.. have had no issues whatsoever. Only problem I have is that the car does feel a bit sluggish when not warmed up but that is expected given the oil's viscosity.

Edge Ti is quiet a thick 5w30 & it's not even GF-5 rated. I'd be looking at something better suited/thinner next service. There's plenty of decent 0w20 & 5w20 options already mentioned in this thread.
Toyota NZ are supplying Motul H-Tech 0w20 for the 86 so that gives you an idea of what you should be using.

I changed mine at 2,500km's - it was black, thick, dirty... 15,000km's is marketing / cost saving BS..

Know of a ZN6 owner using Toptec by Liqui-Moly in the 5w30 and he's really happy with it, it's a good oil also. Note; This isn't the economy blend, it's the high-vis stuff. Meets Porsche C30, amongst others.

But what's he achieving running oil that thick?? Does he think the Porsche rating will make it go faster or something? I don't even run oil that thick in my 3SGE with 140K on the clock (current fill is M1 5w30 dexos1).

To put this into perspective the average 0w20 will have a kinematic viscosity around 8 centistokes (cSt) at 100°C (operating temp). Edge Ti is 12 & LM 4200 is 12.3 (M1 is 11 cSt).

• 20wt = 5.60 - 9.29 cSt
• 30wt = 9.30 - 12.49
• 40wt = 12.50 - 16.29
• 50wt = 16.30 - 21.89

You run Motul 0w20 don't you Nezz? If you drove the two cars back to back I bet you'd find his sluggish compared to yours. Get him to google "hydrodynamic friction".

would you care to explain? I'm not too understanding about the technicalities regarding oils.

Did you read my post above? #51 That's about as simple as I can explain it


If you want something a bit thicker for the aussie heat then I'd be looking at something like Redline 5w20 http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=1&pcid=21

did my first oil change just before 10,000km, used Penrite HRP 0 0W30 oil. Fully Synthetic stuff, they confusingly have a very similar looking bottle of Semi Synthetic oil as well.

The oil that came out was quite black!

It might be the placebo effect, but the car does feel a little bit nicer now. I think its not a bad oild to use and one of the few with the right viscosity obtainable at the shops.

I swear by Motul aswell it is very good but I use 10w40 for my m3 what should I use for my 86. ppl say 5w30 but im leaning to the 10w40 aswell. I go to the track every weekend and drive hard on daily basis. what does ur subi friend use from motul?

The proper way to choose an oil is to monitor oil pressure and temperature and do uoa. If you don't do this it is all conjecture.