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The rattle in the shifter while accelerating in your first video sounds like the rattle often attributed to the reverse lockout. You can try to hold the lockout up while in gear and see if it changes at all (it may not, or if it does it may not completely disappear).
The sound you get when initially pressing on the clutch reminds me of my experiences with the throwout bearing. I think there are several variations on the theme that many have experienced, but I will say that in my case, the bearing remained relatively intact when I finally did have the transmission pulled; however, the bearing grease had escaped and slung all around the bell housing and I was told bearing failure was "imminent." This is after Subaru telling me these noises were "normal." I have a much older car (mid 2013 manufacture) and I know they have revised the TOB at least once since my car was made so YMMV. Also, just in case anyone asks, I had my TOB replaced at 65k - no issues other than normal wear with the clutch disk and the rest of the clutch system was intact and looked good. |
It’s not the rev lock out. What you can’t see in the videos is how much then whole shifter vibrates and bounces around it looks like it will actually come out of gear. There is so much play and it’s in all gears. I took a video of it using a dB and it’s almost over 100 dB from around the shifter other area is not more than around 80dB.
The clutch is also seeming more sloppy than it has with a lot of sound feed back. The Toyota field service rep said this was normal operation. Nobody will look at it at the dealer till something breaks. As I have not found a way to get above this guy. Funny thing is all the people that I talk to out here that have one of the twins they all say there’s don’t make it and it sounds like something is wrong. I’m trying to get someone to take me for a ride in there’s so I can take a video and send it as proof to Toyota that it’s not normal. |
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Yep Ultra and since the guy at the top said it’s normal operation no dealer will touch it.
If I take it to a out side shop and have them look at it the dealer will say it will void the warranty. So how can I get someone to fix it even though it’s still under warranty. Will someone with 16,17 or any other year and a stock trans and clutch take a video of their shifter during driving above 4K. My though is if I submit several video to Toyota and mine it will prove it’s not normal and actually have them pull the damn trans and inspect it. |
FIXED THE RATTLE! (mostly)
I have an '18 tS, and my shifter rattled pretty bad over 4000rpm, and was annoying the crap out of me. The car is under warrantee so I tried the dealer, but the blamed the carbon fiber driveshaft I have on the car, which I wasn't about to swap off just to prove the rattle was still there without it (which it was). Then I tried the Perrin billet lockout lever, and the rattle is reduced about 75%. Still happens, but in a much narrower rpm range and it's far more subdued - to the point of not being noticeable. Recommended. |
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I have not posted in this forums but I have been a long time lurker since 2015. Time to say hello :-)
I had the same buzz and here is what I personally found. That sound sounded just like the reverse lockout in in my shifter. I have seen a few threads try to explain it, that it's a washer etc. After much trail and error, I found where mine was really coming from. The shifter is hollow and has a plastic rod in the middle of it for the reverse lockout. Once you get to a RPM which makes a resident frequency that matches the plastic or leaver, it goes nuts and rattles against the side walls. To reduce the rattle to almost nothing, I stuffed that shaft full of a thick grease. The rattle is now almost completely gone. |
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humfrz |
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There has been a bit of head scratching over in the UK about this and there was one guy who come up with quite a compelling fix for it.
The source of noise (in some cases) seems to come from the small metal lockout collar which prevents you from shifting into reverse, as your transmission transfers more vibration through the shifter it causes the collar to vibrate against the shaft of the shifter. The tolerance between the parts is large enough to ensure the collar slides up and down smoothly (enabling you to get into reverse), but too loose to prevent it vibrating. The cause of the vibration is undetermined, its generated from the gearbox/clutch assembly but nobody knows why, some just seem smoother than others. The solution is to remove the gap between the collar and the shaft by using a shim material or Teflon tape between them, then to pump grease into the middle of the shaft to dampen the cable and anything else which could cause vibration. The guy who come up with this also added a rubber stop made from self amalgamating tape below the collar for it to sit on, slightly under spring tension to prevent movement. Unfortunately its not a 5 minute job, you need to remove the shifter completely from the car and partly disassemble it. My shift rattle is horrific, it sounds like I have a bag of bottle caps sat in the dash, once I have some free time I intend to tackle this job and see if it works for me. |
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