Planning a 2JZ GTE swap 2016 Scion FRS Advice?
 

This is my parts list for my 2016 Scion FRS 2JZ GTE. I will list the planned parts for the swap and there prices as listed on their web sites. Then follow by my power goals for right after the swap is complete. Any advice you have to give would be appreciated.

Engine: 2JZ GTE from www.jdmenginedepotinc.com. It’s a complete long block dressed out. Comes with an auto trans. Will remove and resell. 2,500.00- 2,900.00 I plan on tarring down the engine and installing new water pump all new gaskets etc.… before the swap.

ECU: PURE 2JZ Swap Into Toyota 86 Plug and Play Package With MoTeC M130 Stand Alone. This custom ECU kit is made to be plug_and_play and is said to retain all the OEM functionalities of the Scion FRS. This is from www.pureautomotiveperformance.com Price 5,600.00 I will try and find an alternative to this because its way to expensive, any suggestions?

Transmission: Full Blown Toyota Supra 2JZ to CD009 Nissan 350z Transmission Conversion. So far in my research this is the best option for a 6 speed manual transmission, because the supra trans is getting to expensive. This transmission can come with a single disc clutch price 3,000.00 and is good for 500 hp. Or you can get it with a Twin disk clutch and its rated for 800+ HP with a price of 4,245.00 I’m still on the fence with this part, but probably going with the twin disk, give me your thoughts. Specifically, how well does a Nissan transmission’s shifter match up to the Scion FRS’s shifter location? I want to keep the car looking as stock as possible from the outside and inside the cabin.
https://fullblownmotorsports.com/ful...ion-conversion

Breaks/Rotors: I will be replacing these soon; the rest of the build is a while off from starting. I’m planning on going with Wilwood’s Forged Narrow Super lite 6R front break kit. 6 piston calipers seems a little over kill for me, so I’m also looking at wildwood 4 piston front break kit made for the WRX, but is billed as working with the FRS. The cost is 1,750 for the 6 piston and 1,100 for the 4 piston. With this kit I would be dropping 16lbs per corner. I’m for sure doing this mode soon, because the OEM break suck if you’re getting rowdy on back roads. I found that out the scary way! Any advice on which break kit to go with, has anybody put the wrx kit on the frs? As for the rear brakes, for now I think I’ll just powder coat the rear calipers red and let the front breaks do the work. Probably throw on some performance pads for sure.
https://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/Br...axle=Front+Kit

Those are the main parts I have priced out so far, I know there will be an exhaust system to fabricate for the turbos, cooling, custom drive shaft and a ton of other small parts all over the place.

What do people normal do for the rear diff? Get the OEM one built out for the new power levels, what about the axles?

Power goals
350-400 whp

I’m going to keep the 2JZ stock to start with, maybe have the twins rebuilt. I’m not sure if you can squeeze that much out of a stock 2JZ just by tuning and playing with the twins or if I’ll have to do some work on the heads to get there.

So that’s what I have so far, any advice is much appreciated.:thanks:

ECU from a different post I made yesterday:

Motec is the top tier ECU. On top of CAN integration, it provides plenty many features and advanced customizations like incredibly effective traction control.

You have to sit down and think what things you NEED/WANT. If you need full CAN integration, ease of swap with the wiring figured out with a plug an play harness, go with the Pure Motec package. I have it and can attest to the Motec and plug and play features and can also confirm Pure stands by their product 100% and will be there to support you.

I've seen firsthand Element Tuning "plug and play" package with full CAN integration and it was a nightmare. Wires that did not reach the sensors, open wires that needed to be custom routed and plugs added to have basic features working and not enough inputs for critical stuff like, idle control on a cable throttle.

Yes, the Motec package is expensive. It will just depend on what value you put on almost limitless features, full CAN integration and the advantage of painfree wiring which can become a big task on a swap depending on what other option you decide to go with and how comfortable you/your shop is with wiring.

To me, after going through a swap, the extra cost as well worth it. Of course, some people don't need all the stuff Motec provides (track only car for example) and are comfortable with wiring. In those cases, it's harder to justify.

V160 or CD009 you will need to modify the trans tunnel. I believe either will land pretty close to stock location with the right adapters. You'd need to contact FBM for it. I believe Pure might also sell a conversion kit specific to the FRS?

In general, to keep proper brake bias, you want to got with a brake kit designed for the twins.

Are you doing this work by yourself or having a shop do it? The cost of fabrication will be significant, especially going with a beefier CD009.

You'll have all around better luck with Pure's "expensive" swap kit from what I hear from other members. Listen to Sportsguy83's advice. It comes down to what you want to retain from the factory amenities, such as working instrument cluster, HVAC, TC, ABS, PS, etc.

Sportsguy83,

Your right, even though Pure's plug and play package cost a lot it will be worth it in the end to have an ECU that retains all the OEM functions plus more and should just be plug and play. I'm no good with wiring so this is the best option.

What should i look for in a break kit to match up with the twins?

Thanks

Frsty_86,

I'm planning on doing some of the work my self and having a shop to the majority of the install. I would like to drop that car off at the shop as a roller and have them cram all the new parts in. How much fabrication is required on the trans tunnel to make it fit? What other fabrication am i looking at besides the exhaust system for the twins.

Is there a better option out there for a 6 speed trans that would require less modification of the trans tunnel to get it in there?

Thanks

Whats the budget on brakes? How big are you looking for?

I pieced together a set using cadillac brembo up front with STI rotors, with STI brembos and rotors in the rear for a balanced setup (within 1% of stock bias), but for nearly the same cost-- If I were to do it again, I'd look at buying a kit from RR racing that requires less researching and mixing parts:

https://www.rr-racing.com/category-s/135.htm



Specifically these sets:
RR Front 4 piston
RR Front 6 Piston Stage 1
RR Front 6 Piston Stage 2
With:
Rear 4 Piston

I have the smaller Stoptech kit, that increased the front brakes and leaves the rear OEM. That is more than adequate.

You'll need to modify the tunnel regardless. Go with the CD009, but ask Pure/FBM for a custom shifter that lands in teh stock FRS spot.

Sportsguy83,

Thanks for the advice. Ill go with this setup and ask about the custom shifter.

BPU, basic performance upgrades, which is exhaust, downpipe, boost controller and boost cut controller allows for around 400-425 whp. Unless you are tracking the car or doing aggressive driving with frequent aggressive braking then brake upgrades aren’t necessary. They don’t make you stop faster; they manage heat. Just get brake lines, pads and tires for better brake performance. If you are going to track the car then add a BBK and fluid upgrade.

If you are going to go with Pure for the parts then just use them for a shop. If you have the coin for it then they have everything you need for this. Give them a call with your budget and the possibilities. They can tell you if delivering a roller without an engine or with some work done will save you much.

I forgot to mention, the Pure kit has a few more parts: there is a GM throttle body conversion to go to ride-by-wire, and they have an intake manifold because the stock intake manifold would require cutting of the front bar. None of these are necessary, but they make life easier if you have the money. If you don’t do the throttle body then you need to convert to cable and you will lose cruise control unless you buy a cruise control unit and rig that up.

start off by throwing the stock twins in the trash. they are almost always blown/ leaking oil and every vacuum line disintegrates when we take them off of used dropout engines. It also is a packaging nightmare with those things installed. So much easier to build and work on with a single.

If you don't do a drive by wire throttle body, you have to come up with some way to retrofit a cable pedal in the car.

our ecu, software, basemap and wiring harness controls everything in the car that was stock. cluster, fuel pump controller, fan controller, hvac, abs, push button start, stock gas pedal, traction control buttons, etc.

pretty much every trans requires heavy modifications to the floor

I respect your experience and opinion, but not everyone has the coin to drop another $4-5k on a single conversion. When I did my NA to TT swap on my MKIV Supra, I removed all the vacuum lines, actuators and butterflies that control the sequential setup. Low end response is lost, but so is the torque dip that occurs when the second turbo actuates. That might be the way to go if the engine is low enough miles.

Irace86,

Thanks for the advice, ill give pure a call and see what they have to offer as far doing the work in there shop, assuming they have one close enough.

Ill take your advice and keep the twins to start with. Ill be a poor man after the swap, so i cant really justify spending an extra 5k on a single turbo conversion kit. Maybe later on.

Ill try swapping just the pads,break lines, and tires to see if i can get the breaks feeling better. Right now it feels like i have to stand on the dam pedal to slow down for corners. I drive a lot of back roads and when no ones around i tend to ignore speed limits. Wouldn't slotted rotors be better then flat faced rotors, it does offer some leading edges for the pad to grip?

Thanks