Rookie in need of suggestions! Please help.
 

I'll keep it simple.
I'm new to this, I want to see what will fit on my 2018 toyota gt86.

The only thing I have done to the car is have Eibach sportsline Lowering Springs installed, for a 1.4 inch drop. Everything else is stock, and completly stock. With that being said, what are the biggest wheels I can get for my car without having any issues such as rubbing or having the wheels poke out with that 1.4 inch drop?

I'm a complete moron when it comes to camber and what not and how that stuff works. I just want the biggest set of wheels without any problems. My fenders are also not rolled either. Everyone recommends coilovers, but that's too low, and I dont understand the calculators for the life of me.

Will 18 x 9.5 + 38mm offset be good or is that too big? If it works, what tire size will go with it to fit?

My co worker runs 17 x 9 +35 with 1.0 inch drop with lowering springs, but I want to see if I can go bigger. Thanks again everyone !

What's your end goal with it? Do you care about how it drives/handles, or just want it slammed with massive wheels?


Bigger != better... especially at stock power levels. 18" will be heavier than 17's, wider will also add weight. The sweet spot for stock power is 8" wide wheels with 225 width tires. Whether you go 17 or 18 will depend on what you want it to look like.


The 9.5" +38 wheels will rub on the front shocks unless you go with coilovers.

If it can improve the driving/handling I see why not? I also don't like the tire gap, so if it's possible to eliminate that too with getting big wheels, then I'll try to go with big wheels too lol. I just want it to be flushed .

I just had the lowering springs installed, so I'm going to stick with them until I go with coilovers in the long future ahead of me. But since 9.5 +38 will rub, I guess I'll avoid that. I've seen videos where the tire sticks out, I just want to avoid that so that it wont cause problems.

18's in general won't improve handling or driving, they will hurt it. 17x9 is the size that seems the community has settled on as the best for handling.

Bigger wheels do not eliminate the gap. The outer diameter of the tire should remain roughly the same, or it will affect gearing and how your speedometer reads. When you get bigger wheels you usually get tires with a smaller aspect ratio to keep that outer diameter the same.

The flush wheel offset chart, and all the other info in here, will be your best friend for this: https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7535

This site can help. https://www.ft86motorsports.com/wheelitfit/

Like others have said, massive wheels and tires will make your car slower. Further, 18" tires are substantially more expensive than 17". Like, the price difference is multiple hundreds of dollars per set. EDIT: for reference, I looked at the price for the Hankook Ventus V12 Evo2, which is a relatively inexpensive summer tire that seems to be pretty popular. A set in 255/40/17 is $507 before tax. But for 255/35/18, you're looking at $752. For 200tw tires like the RS4, you're looking at $640 vs $980 for a set.

Unless you get coils, I would suggest you stick to 17x8 with a reasonable offset. The tool I linked above can help.

If you get coils, I would go no larger than 17x9 +40ish with a 245/40 tire. If you have money to burn and like the bigger wheel/skinny tire look, go 18x9.5 +40ish with a 255/35 tire.

Do you have any recommendations of what type/brand coilovers for that 18x9.5 set up you just said at the end? I do love the big wheel skinny tire look!

Any coilover setup will fit that wheel/tire size. Recommendations depend on budget and intended use. I use RCE Tarmac 2s because they're moderately priced and decent for entry-level track use. KWv3s are similarly priced but a bit more daily-friendly.

Lots of people like the CSG-Spec Tein Flex As, which are a bit less expensive. The ST coils are basically KWv1s without the fancy anti-rust coating. If you wanna go big, look at JRZs or Tein SRCs.

Edit: also note that you'll rub a little bit in the rear, at least for a little while. There's a small plastic tab where the rear bumper cover connects to the fender liner, but it will wear itself away fairly quickly.

Read post # 213 & 214.
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showt...=28017&page=16

OP, Your wheels should fit with your lowering springs, 3mm slip spacers, and 235/40/18 tires.

I wouldn't be that sure on 'any' bit. Yes, most aftermarket coilovers use smaller diameter springs then OE springs for twins, but do all of them? Some may also use OE like bigger diameter springs.

Fair. All the aftermarket coils I've seen use the smaller-diameter springs, but I can't say that they all do.

At least for raceseng cascam plates model/spring perch is listed same for OEM and Bilstein PSS B14 and B16, hence the thought.

Damn, so just to play safe, I guess I'll stick to 8inch wheels wheels just avoid any trouble until I get coilovers for 18x9.5 in the future. Just gotta get rid of these stock tires lol.

So with that being said, will 17x8 +35 offset OR 18x8 +35 be good enough to not have problems then with lowering springs w/ a 1.4 inch drop? If yes, what are tires that you recommend for this size? I'm not sure how tire fitment works with what wheel size, but I do love the look of having big wheels and small tire size. Im not too big of a fan of bulky tires and tire gap lol. Any suggestions anyone?

I also live in Washington state, so it can be quite a bit rainy sometimes, not sure if that plays a roll in the big wheel / small tire size I want.

Thanks again everyone !
I do appreciate everyones advice ! I really do! Glad to know I have brothers out there to help out !��

Actually for handling/reasonable ground clearance and suspension travel, i'd advise to reduce drop to within inch to not fsck up suspension geometry and reduce wear of rear axle bearings, unless you buy also whiteline roll center correction kit and some diff riser to reduce angles at axles joints. Our cars are rather low and with not that much suspension travel to begin with.
As for tire width .. only functional reasons of going wide are maximizing side transition grip in auto-x within class limits and for cars with forced induction. If car stays NA, i'd probably stay 215 or go for upto 225/45/17 for summers just choosing tire model/compound of right type for use, and 195-205/60/16 for winter tires. With not too wide wheels to reduce weight and to not have tires stretched past reasonable.
Wide tire looks, few will see and notice (how many look under other cars to notice that at all?), that work mostly for owner with placebo impression that fitting as wide tires as on supercars will make car closer to those supercars, bun in reality rather will make car more of tramlining instead of playful, will slightly reduce acceleration, one will need to shell out noticeably more money on tires, that will also be easier to aquaplane .. arguable gain with several drawbacks.

My 2 cents

Perfect NA daily set up with visions of grandeur

17 x 8 +45 Enkei RPF-1. Why: light and strong rim, no issues with OEM coil overs (springs and dampers)

215/45 17 Hankook RS4. Why: excellent dry tyre, very good wear rate, very good value.

MCA street performance coils. Why: Local company, valving and spring rate designed for the platform, excellent value for the money, adjustable (20mm drop from stock height), easy maintenance (greasing).

MCA traction mod. Why: Excellent reviews from local racers.

Brake pads and fluid. I'm on OEM Brembo pads and Motul fluid. Why: Although the OEM pads are dusty the work well from cold and are easy on the discs.

Hard race Subframe and Whiteline diff mount inserts. Why: The OEM bushings are too compliant and the subframe and diff bounces around like a pogo stick.

Throw a little camber at the front (-2.5), the rear should see around -2.0 with a 20mm drop, zero your toe and then...........profit.

The cars handling will be night and day and your tyres will last for ages (zero toe).

Yes you can get bigger wheels and tyres, but, it will cost you on multiple fronts, weight, cost, performance and comfort.

Remember, your sidewall is part of your suspension, less sidewall = rougher ride, this is extremely pertinent when going higher spring rates.

Most importantly, research, alot, don't spend $1.00 until you have looked at every option and worked out any issues, modifying isn't rocket science, but it is easy to make your car handle worse than OEM.

Opinions may vary.

This car, lowered 1 to 1.5 inches, looks like it was designed for 17x8 +35 wheels with 225/45r17 tires:

http://www.modbargains.com/zoom_img/_1460391831.jpg

You can run 17x9 +35 with 245/40r17 as well but they poke too much without adding at least negative 2 degrees camber and then you may rub on the spring perch without coilovers.