![]() |
Buying an early build in the fall, but some issues with these cars are worrying me...
Forgive me and feel free to delete if this is an ignorant post, but here goes anyways.
I’m looking to buy a (preferably ‘14) manual BRZ in the late fall that will probably have about 50-70k miles on it in my $13-14k (writing a check, not financing) budget. First sports car, first “fun” daily car I’m able to buy for myself. Do I need to be worried about the valve spring issues and the TOB stuff with buying a ‘14 or possibly ‘13 car? I’d rather not buy the thing and then immediately have to dump cash (besides things you’d normally freshen up on a used car) in it to make sure a bad TOB doesn’t take the trans and/or whatever issues the valve spring stuff causes. My perception is that this is a pretty reliable, easy to work on, and fun sports car for the money. I’m just easily frazzled I suppose... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
At that many miles and used, suggested is go buy a new clutch, new tob, New clutch fork and new pivot ball. The valve springs are not a big issue, you can ignore it.
|
Quote:
Thanks for the tip. I’m not very mechanically savvy, but I’m assuming the parts you listed are synonymous with what you’d usually replace when doing a clutch anyways? Figured I’d have to do that sooner than later Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
Quote:
|
Well being a '13-14 chances are they are on the recall list.
No biggie, it's a free service just takes time. As far as what to look for, throw out bearing, maybe coil pack(s). That's about it. It is easy to work on.....besides the spark plugs but it can be done, just a huge pain in the ass. |
Quote:
Sounds good. Yeah if I can I’d probably rather buy a 70k mile car that just had the plug service done than a 50-60k ish one that’s going to need it, if I can. Otherwise, it’s a bullet to bite I suppose Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
The 14s are not subject to the current recall and don't seem to be plagued with the same issues as the 13s. Pretty much the standard 60K maintenance package will be all you need. The TOB issue is hit and mis right up to the 17s so it may be something to consider.
|
Quote:
I can count the stuffs that might go out after 60k miles + there are good amount of wear & tear items that will need to be replaced & wont be covered by warranty after that mileage. I would get a 30k mile one if you are serious, trust me, you are not saving money by buying a 50-70k one. No point in gambling..... thou buying a used twin is kind like a gamble... :cheers: or get a carmax one with unlimit mile warranty for x amount of years & make a youtube series. :D |
Quote:
|
Quote:
If I can do it again I would get 100k mile warranty from dealer when I bought the car brand new, my timing chain cover starts to leak oil after 58k miles. After countless canyon run & 10 ish track/drift event.....ya :burnrubber::bonk: |
Quote:
|
I'd go for extended warranty because it doesn't take much to pay for itself UNLESS you are going to heavily mod it.
High pressure fuel pump alone is over $2k. Plus used, you never know what the last owner did with the car Get a PPI either way. Don't trust 1 word the dealership or salesman says. Most cars were garage kept and belonged to the manager OR owner of the car lot LOL |
Bought my 17 used with 4400 miles. Also bought the longest top tier $0 deductible National Warranty. I’m covered under factory warranties then the National until 100k and 1/1/2026.
I work on cars every day. Nothing worse than having to fix your own car. Drop it off at Subaru and pick it up on the way home. These cars seem to follow the same rules in Porsche land. Buy the newest lowest mileage car you can afford. You never know how many drift laps or donuts a used rwd car has been through. |
Quote:
|
| All times are GMT -4. The time now is 05:16 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2026, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
User Alert System provided by
Advanced User Tagging v3.3.0 (Lite) -
vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2026 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.