Awesome! I'm Jelly

I used a friend's Carista app to remove the seat belt warning chime on both the driver and passenger seats, as well as the alarm when you hit the keyfob lock button with the doors open, and made it so pressing the keyfob unlock button once to unlock both doors.


I'm interested in seeing your Innovate gauge install!

No problem, glad I could help. I remember chatting, but I got upside down coaching. Nice about Conference T4. I have friends up there that really love running with Conference.

Sadly I never ran the red T4 FRS car up there, only the white STU FRS. I always borrowed a friend's old T4/SSB car up at Pacific to get National starts. I think the time has moved since my 2014 T4 record in the SSB Civic Si. I think I still have the STU record though.

Setting goals and going over your data to improve are important. Make sure you have data and work from there!

-Oscar Jr.

Other than my valve springs getting finished I haven't got much done beside cleaning the garage and getting organized to get started again. It seems like every time I turn around other plans are being made for me! I should have more time after this weekend to get moving.



My next steps are:

Interior

• Seat belt mounting and window net
• Kill switch and gauges - Fab up block off plate for left side vent (kill switch location) and for radio delete (gauges).
• Inside window net
• Aim solo will be mounted to roll bar above left side vent.
• Cool shirt box - I sold my previous car with the cool shirt box, unaware of how much those damn things cost! Therefore I'm going to build my own.
• Install camera mounts and coolshirt tubing.
• Install radio holder and PTT to steering wheel.

Engine

• Replace engine harness and coil packs with updated 2015 parts.
• Oil cooler
• Restrictor plate
• A/C delete
• Hotchkis bar
• Drop in filter
• Mount brake ducts in bumper.
• Get new collected welded in Header and install overpipe - then exhaust is complete.

Suspension/Setup

• Control arms, camber plates, shocks/springs etc.
• Finish brake ducts and brake pads (ST47F and ST45R)
• Install ARP studs in new hub/bearings for all 4 corners.
• Put car on scales
• Corner balance, add weights, set ride height and camber/caster/toe

Other

• Antenna delete
• Fire bottle and fire suppression system
• Decals and numbers.
• Tow straps
• Replace fluids and lubricants
• Fix the P0500 code.
• Purchase another set of wheels and tires.
• Purchase needed spacers once I fit the wheels/tires
• Replace fuel and get it tuned.

I'll cross things off my list as I go but that's what is remaining. I'm about 3 weeks out before I can show any progress but I figured this build thread was missing an all important "list" of to-do items.

What shocks are you going with?

Bilstein B14s. That may change in 2020 but that's what I'm doing for this year. I don't want to commit too much money because you never know what the future holds. The SCCA could approve single adjustable shocks and then POOF - gotta spend more $$$.

Is there much data or input around the V1 vs the B14 with the Pro Kit for T4? Has anyone done the testing to check how well damping matches with the rates for both? I'd assume someone has, but whether or not it's been shared/discussed is another matter. haha

(I ask mainly because my goal is to slowly work my way toward a T4 build, but a cage won't come for at least 2 more years)

Interested in your thoughts about corner balancing the car, tried this weekend but couldn't put a dent in the 100# difference across the front axle without the ride heights getting super screwy (like >1/2" different left to right)

<3 this thread

killer job with the interior prep and paint, that all came together very nicely. What type of prep work did you do before attacking the base coat?

ST4 should be a lot of fun with this machine once it is finished.

- Ryan

Don't buy anything this early because rules change from year to year.

TBH, I can't speak to either, nor have I seen any dyno graphs of either. I can speak to my decision making process which heavily relies on my favorite quote: "is the juice worth the squeeze". I looked at what I'd be racing and where for starters.. A lightly modified FRS in the PacNW where the race tracks (except for Spokane) are quite smooth compared to many across this country. So all I have to build for are: PacNW tracks, maybe 1 in CA and then Road America (2020 runoffs).

I called Bilstein directly and spoke with one of their technical guys about my car and my intentional use-case. Basically the B14 was valved/designed based on data acquired from testing at the Nordschliefe (sp?) on a lowered, stiffened car. Bilsteins are also inexpensive to have re-valved/rebuilt. The capability, up front cost and revalving cost/availability of the Bilsteins sold me over other options.

The best places to gain time on track (low hanging fruit at this level of prep) will come from Tires, Tuning (power) and setup. Spending $$$ on fine tuning shocks comes last so it wasn't in the 2019 plans.

Since the interior of the car already mostly covered in factory base coat from manufacturing we figured new paint would stick to it without primer. On all areas with pre-existing factory paint I used lacquer thinner to wipe down all those surfaces. On all surfaces that were bare; cage, bases and parts where the factory paint was light - we cleaned with lacquer thinner and used light grey automotive primer as shown in the picture because those surfaces would definitely need a primer so the paint has something to grab onto.
We have sprayed cars in the past with single stage, and there's something to be said for spraying once. However the base coat + clear coat really laid down nicely. The clear coat was very resistant to runs so we could lay it down thick, coat after coat. The 2 stage really pops and the effort was worth it.

Its going to cause me pain to drill holes in it to mount things like seat belt eye bolts, cool shirt tray and lead weights!

Where'd you pick those parts up from? A scrap car?

Bought wiring harness and coil packs all brand new from:
https://www.subarusource.com/
Their prices were low enough to justify buying new OEM stuff.

Toiling away in the garage....
 

The gauges are on hold. I need a thing before I do thing so that thing has to wait...

So onto other things! :D
Time to get into the engine bay! Off with the bumper
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7838/...43fcee0f_z.jpgIMG_0364 by Rice Classic, on Flickr


Adios A/C!

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7832/...88337422_z.jpgIMG_0360 by Rice Classic, on Flickr
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7834/...c102a291_z.jpgIMG_0361 by Rice Classic, on Flickr


Now it's time to:

• Remove Intake Manifold
• Replace harness
• Replace Coil packs
• Install A/C delete
• Install Oil cooler

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7856/...ffd96791_z.jpgIMG_0369 by Rice Classic, on Flickr
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7802/...e14ff568_z.jpgIMG_0365 by Rice Classic, on Flickr


Intake ports were a bit cruddy, but not bad for 85k miles!! Gotta say, I'm very impressed.

After a bit of cleaning
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7886/...623e2da4_z.jpgIMG_0366 by Rice Classic, on Flickr


Here's how much GOOP was used by Toyota during the Valve Spring replacement... I hope it doesn't cause the same failure others have seen.


Old Harness
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7833/...20bfd8b3_z.jpgIMG_0370 by Rice Classic, on Flickr


New Harness
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7916/...d5620416_z.jpgIMG_0371 by Rice Classic, on Flickr




That's right.. I bought 5 coil packs. When it costs $1000+ per race weekend, it makes sense to carry spares of things that you may need.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7868/...a5d4a969_z.jpgIMG_0372 by Rice Classic, on Flickr


Unfortunately 2 of the sensors on my car were NOT compatible with my 2015 harness, requiring me to do a little soldering.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7865/...cf7973dc_z.jpgIMG_0377 by Rice Classic, on Flickr
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7806/...d2d63c2b_z.jpgIMG_0378 by Rice Classic, on Flickr
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7901/...84eb2b9e_z.jpgIMG_0379 by Rice Classic, on Flickr