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-   -   Gearflag PRK902 8 sensor parking system (https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13198)

DIREWOLF 07-30-2012 04:30 PM

Gearflag PRK902 8 sensor parking system
 
Quick Overview

Real time distances display, three color LCD backlight display.
8 sensors system, 4 front / 4 rear, real time numeric display with 2 digit display, audible alarm

http://www.gearflag.com/media/catalo...902_8_full.jpg
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2AdJhlf3g-k"]Gearflag Parking Sensor with Dual CPU processors - YouTube[/ame]

notout86 05-06-2013 12:59 AM

Here's how I installed. Suggestions for better ways welcome

Installation tips
Before drilling the sensor holes, ensure the drill has no bearing play, else the bit will waggle about and the hole will be larger than required and a neat fit impossible as the sensors have a small overhang.
The sensors must be installed in the "up" orientation as indicated on the reverse. As the indication is behind the bumper when installed, I cut a tiny notch on the lowest edge to be visible on the outside.
Black sensors look "cool" on a white bumper. Other colors are available. Sensors can be painted.
Behind the front bumper where the sensors may go is a block of stuff like styrofoam (it is more rubbery , tough to cut, doesn't crumble and does not dissolve in acetone/turps etc.) Either place the left and right sensors above (which will be higher than desireable and not look as good ) or make cavities in the foam. I doubt it can be drilled as I expect it will just melt and clog the hole drill. I hacked away with a chisel.
Before attaching the display I rigged up a heavy Al foil reflective heat shield behind it to prolong its life. Little bits of double-sided foam tape separate it from the back of the display to prevent heat conduction.
I wanted the display above the rear-view mirror, neatly concealed from outside by the shading on the inside of the windscreen. The angle of the windscreen is such that I could not mount above the rear-view mirror and angle the display vertically enough. I had to cut away some of the socket to assist but even then angling is not ideal.

The stick-on mounting pad would not stay on the glass on hot days. I rigged up a bracket that goes up behind the leading edge of the roof liner and is held by a magnet.
The system is activated by selecting reverse gear which in turn activates the reversing lights to which the control box is connected. The system then remains active for 2 minutes, even though you may no longer be in reverse. Do not panic if the display does not light on selecting reverse..... at least one sensor must be around 180cm from an object as well. Close in on an object and it should light. Some objects e.g. a 10cm round pole may not be detected. Various object limitations are listed in the manual. I find the display lights briefly sometimes (within the 2 minute window) while on the open road.
The distances displayed are VERY accurate.

Where my wiring is
The front sensor leads enter the engine compartment near the upper passenger-side corner of the radiator and go inside the cabin via a grommet in the firewall near the driveshaft arch. That same grommet carries the wire for 12V dc power. That wire is pink and simply jammed under fuse 33 in the engine compartment fuse box which was simpler than finding a suitable accessory wire under the dash. Pink becomes red and goes through the grommet.
The power wire and sensor leads go down from the grommet , hidden behind sound deadening material then emerge near floor level but are concealed by the carpeting. I had to force a stiff piece of wire carrying a piece of sash cord down behind the sound deadening. At the engine-compartment end of the string I threaded it into the pointy end of the tip of a thick ball-point pen and tied a knot in it about 100mm from the end. The sensor lead plug fitted in the pen tip and I wrapped duct tape around both tip and plug. The remaining bit of string was tied to another length of string. Back in the car , the end of the tring that was previously pushed through by the wire was pulled through bringing through the pointy penn tip and plug and next length of string. (The reason for the knot inside the tip should now be obvious). Repeat the process for the other sensors.
The leads and plugs then go across to the passenger side sill and along a space in the sill (remove the plastic sill trim), then to the boot where they connect to the control box. For neatness it is worth paralleling the leads close together to make a flat cable. Put the leads in in numbered order across pieces of duct tape and fold the tape over the other side. Do this about every 40cm.
The display lead comes from the control box in the boot, also along the passenger side sill like the sensor leads and is tucked behind the edge of cabin panels and a rubber seal up around the door frame to emerge at the top LH corner of the windscreen, then is tucked up behind the front edge of the roof lining to emerge above the rear-view mirror.
 
The rear sensors leads enter the boot through the same grommet that carries the car wiring to the reversing and fog lights. The control box taps into the reversing lights under boot trim just below and to the passenger side of the boot lip. The earth wire of the control box connects to a nearby (gold plated) earth point.


notout86 05-15-2013 10:52 PM

amendment
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by notout86 (Post 913475)
Here's how I installed. Suggestions for better ways welcome

Installation tips
Before drilling the sensor holes, ensure the drill has no bearing play, else the bit will waggle about and the hole will be larger than required and a neat fit impossible as the sensors have a small overhang.
The sensors must be installed in the "up" orientation as indicated on the reverse. As the indication is behind the bumper when installed, I cut a tiny notch on the lowest edge to be visible on the outside.
Black sensors look "cool" on a white bumper. Other colors are available. Sensors can be painted.
Behind the front bumper where the sensors may go is a block of stuff like styrofoam (it is more rubbery , tough to cut, doesn't crumble and does not dissolve in acetone/turps etc.) Either place the left and right sensors above (which will be higher than desireable and not look as good ) or make cavities in the foam. I doubt it can be drilled as I expect it will just melt and clog the hole drill. I hacked away with a chisel.
Before attaching the display I rigged up a heavy Al foil reflective heat shield behind it to prolong its life. Little bits of double-sided foam tape separate it from the back of the display to prevent heat conduction.
I wanted the display above the rear-view mirror, neatly concealed from outside by the shading on the inside of the windscreen. The angle of the windscreen is such that I could not mount above the rear-view mirror and angle the display vertically enough. I had to cut away some of the socket to assist but even then angling is not ideal.

The stick-on mounting pad would not stay on the glass on hot days. I rigged up a bracket that goes up behind the leading edge of the roof liner and is held by a magnet.
The system is activated by selecting reverse gear which in turn activates the reversing lights to which the control box is connected. The system then remains active for 2 minutes, even though you may no longer be in reverse. Do not panic if the display does not light on selecting reverse..... at least one sensor must be around 180cm from an object as well. Close in on an object and it should light. Some objects e.g. a 10cm round pole may not be detected. Various object limitations are listed in the manual. I find the display lights briefly sometimes (within the 2 minute window) while on the open road.
The distances displayed are VERY accurate.

Where my wiring is
The front sensor leads enter the engine compartment near the upper passenger-side corner of the radiator and go inside the cabin via a grommet in the firewall near the driveshaft arch. That same grommet carries the wire for 12V dc power. That wire is pink and simply jammed under fuse 33 in the engine compartment fuse box which was simpler than finding a suitable accessory wire under the dash. Pink becomes red and goes through the grommet.
The power wire and sensor leads go down from the grommet , hidden behind sound deadening material then emerge near floor level but are concealed by the carpeting. I had to force a stiff piece of wire carrying a piece of sash cord down behind the sound deadening. At the engine-compartment end of the string I threaded it into the pointy end of the tip of a thick ball-point pen and tied a knot in it about 100mm from the end. The sensor lead plug fitted in the pen tip and I wrapped duct tape around both tip and plug. The remaining bit of string was tied to another length of string. Back in the car , the end of the string that was previously pushed through by the wire was pulled through bringing through the pointy penn tip and plug and next length of string. (The reason for the knot inside the tip should now be obvious). Repeat the process for the other sensors.
The leads and plugs then go across to the passenger side sill and along a space in the sill (remove the plastic sill trim), then to the boot where they connect to the control box. For neatness it is worth paralleling the leads close together to make a flat cable. Put the leads in in numbered order across pieces of duct tape and fold the tape over the other side. Do this about every 40cm.
The display lead comes from the control box in the boot, also along the passenger side sill like the sensor leads and is tucked behind the edge of cabin panels and a rubber seal up around the door frame to emerge at the top LH corner of the windscreen, then is tucked up behind the front edge of the roof lining to emerge above the rear-view mirror.
 
The rear sensors leads enter the boot through the same grommet that carries the car wiring to the reversing and fog lights. The control box taps into the reversing lights under boot trim just below and to the passenger side of the boot lip. The earth wire of the control box connects to a nearby (gold plated) earth point.

Use of fuse # 33 resulted in the disply lighting sometimes after a minute or two while driving along. The system also remains active for two minutes after turning the engine off. Using fuse # 2 in the cabin under the dash fixes. The the display will be on in accessory mode but go out as soon as the car is started

5/10/2013 The display is coming on at random again when it shouldn't, but it is so pretty I don't mind. I guess there is a current leak somewhere but I'm no expert. Apart from that, it works when it should and remains very accurate.
One thing I found was when I pulled the front bumper off. I should have left around a couple of meters slack in the sensor leads behind the bumper to be able to get the bumper well away from the car. Bring on wireless EVERYTHING!

notout86 08-21-2014 01:49 AM

Having since added front & rear cameras and done heaps of research I discovered that running any leads along the door sill is the hard way. Oddly, I find that heaps of people have used the same method as it seems the intuitive way for some reason. Probably because you start running the leads along the side of the boot/trunk and don't think of then going inboard to between the seat backs. A CLASSIC EXAMPLE OF WHY YOU SHOULD ALWAYS THINK LATERALLY.

The easy way is run the leads between the back rests of the rear seats and then proceed to the dash area by tucking leads up under the edge of the plastic of the console.


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