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I would say just go with the CSG or equivalent Brembo 4-pot BBK, with their standard Brembo slotted disks. I race on it, and have absolutely no issue. C1 performed better in terms of stopping power and temperature compared to PFC 08 that I run prior to C1.
You can always use blank Brembo disks that are much cheaper when you need to replace them... I am running C2 with the blank Brembo this year. |
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Let us know if you need some support on this avenue before going through a different brake system. While trying to maximize the AP kit, we also must know what pace you're driving at as well. At some point there simply isn't enough thermal capacity in the disc to handle and thus, going to a larger system will significantly improve your the wear qualities, brake feel, and brake performance consistency. :thumbup: Thank you for your honest review. We look forward to many more from others! :D |
Considering we sold out a few batches of brake pads and have received awesome feedback on them, we hope many more users will share their experiences with the community. We know it's the secret to their success, which might be why they're so secretive. :thumbup:
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secret sauce confirmed :thumbsup:
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Great brake pads. Great bite that didn’t have any fade despite temps being in the 90's. The pads had much more modulation than the XP10’s. Also, you can't beat the customer service at CSG, great guys!
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Sorry if I missed it, but what is the proper bed-in procedure for the C1 pads in these 2 scenarios?
1) coming from another pad? XP10 in my case. Do I need to have the rotors resurfaced? 2) replacing C1 with new C1 in the future Thx. |
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1 + 2: warm up the pads gradually by doing some 50% stops. Then, start doing 70-80% stops (NO ABS!) until you start smelling the pads. This is the resins burning off and the bedding process going. Sustain the heat for a few minutes by braking as needed to maintain the smell. Cool off the brakes evenly by rolling at a moderate speed without coming to a stop, and without using the brakes for 10-15 minutes. This is best done on a race track, or a safe, open road where you are not breaking any laws or endangering/risking anyone. |
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Thank you Mike for the response. Is there a difference between swapping in new rotors vs resurfacing existing ones? You get a metal surface free of pad material either way, don't you?
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I found this listed in the SKU for the entire Brembo kit, but I can't tell if it's the right part or not since there's another listed at $433 right below it. https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_20...6300SA001.html https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_20...6300FE001.html |
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OEM discs for the base braking system are expensive too! |
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Source: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2744390 (keep in mind that the prices have been somewhat reduced since then) See also https://www.subarupartsdeal.com/part...6300fe001.html https://www.subarupartsdeal.com/part...6700ca000.html for some discounts (Currently: $350/ea front disk, $330/ea rear disk) |
Another happy buyer. Very consistent feel lap after lap, easy to threshold and trail brake with. I have flat melted down XP10's on my same setup. Came away from a track day and these still have the paint on the backing plates looking like new. The transfer layer seems to be holding up just fine even with daily driving and they are staying quiet.
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I'm a skeptic by nature.
I don't believe things. Religions. Astrology. Homeopathy. I believe none of that. I also didn't believe that a $400 set of pads of unknown origin could be significantly better than something like the sub-$200 XP10. I was wrong. The CSG C1 are life-changing. Today was my first HPDE on them. Stock car except for SX2 tires, pads, fluids and crash bolts. This is the best braking I've ever experienced on track. It reminded me of the PFC pads I had on my C6. I actually wouldn't be surprised if the CSGs were made by PFC. It's not just the lack of fade. The XP10s were fine there. It's the control, the modulation, the confidence. I shaved 2 seconds off of my best time at my home track. And I was more consistent lap after lap than before (to be fair, this is not all thanks to the pads. I also experimented with tire pressures more than usual, and got good results) I can't comment on how long they will last (yet). But unless they wear out in like 3 days, I am re-ordering. |
I've been trying CSG Spec C1 front + Project Mu Club Racer rear (because C1 rears were out of stock) on my '17 PP BRZ lately, previously I've only tried the stock pads. Other than my BRZ with stock pads, I've previously tracked a few other cars with track pads.
With the CSG C1/PMu CR combo, the brakes feel very consistent and I didn't experience any fade on the track. The perceived level of friction is so much higher than stock pads that I spent a few laps just re-learning how to trail brake and heel-toe. It also took me a bit to re-learn how to use the brake pedal at AutoX (admittedly, this isn't a pad for autox, see laso below). Honestly, I'd personally prefer slightly lower level of friction to have a bit more control, but maybe I just need more practice. Perhaps this level of performance makes more sense when using higher-grip tires (I'm on SX2s now). The pads get really noisy when street driving, but are otherwise safe to get to and from the track so you can do all the pad swaps at home with cold brakes and tires. In fact, I kept them in the car for ~3 weeks between my track days just because I'm lazy to swap them back and forth. |
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Oh maybe it's indeed the stiffness of the pads that makes the control a bit too sensitive.
Yup, totally understandable that noise is unavoidable with any non-street pads with Brembos :) |
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I'm currently running PMU Racing 999's on my 2018 BRZ tS with a JRSC and 200TW tires. Been having excellent results with the 999's, but thinking of moving up to the C1 or C2's this season. I'm solely doing HPDE and Trackcross Events. Would C1 or C2 be the more appropriate transition. From CSG's website, it sounds like C2, but everyone here is having great results with C1's. Curious if my extra power would require the C2's.
Great to hear these generate some less heat than the 999's. They made the white Brembo letters in my front calipers turn salmon/pink-colored! Right of passage I guess to separate me from all those pearly white letters I see running around. Any insight would be greatly appreciated! |
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Maybe try the C1 first, and then try the C2 when you finish the C1. |
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I'm in an area where temperature dips to mid ~30-40F at night and wondering if C1 will work at the temperature? Thank you!
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Will you also have increased wear at those temps? Also yes. 0C is not an optimal temp for the pad, but it will still function as you expect. |
+1. Around that temp here now (up to -5C few days ago), and C1 on stockers all around. No braking-wise problems, even for very first cold braking. No comments on daily driving wear though, hard to evaluate something without much longer mileage, and imho multiplied very little DD wear still won't amount to much. They do squeal a little bit every few very slowest/slightest braking here and there, but to tolerable extent. Imho if anything may keep one from using C1 pads for DD all year round, that might be excessive dusting, not noise or actual braking performance/feel. Finding these checking most the boxes for pads that work both on street & track, even if targeted/designed for later.
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We still recommend the C2 for those looking for higher friction sprint to semi-endurance racing use and the CE2 for long endurance application. As always, they are easy to use and are extremely consistent through a large temperature range. :thumbup: |
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Any support for wilwood calipers?
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