When you start maintaining your car yourself...
 

Hi everyone,
My beloved 2013 Toyota GT86 has now achieved 30k miles (48kkm).
Since it's out of warranty I'm now doing the maintenance myself because I've read so much on the FT86 Forums that I felt it was within reach.

I had two objectives maintaining and learning.

Now I have a couple of questions, but here's what I've done so far:

• Engine oil change (Castrol 0w30)
• Gearbox oil change (Motul Gear 300)
• Differential oil change (Motul Gear 300 LS)
• Brake pads cleaning
• Air Filter cleaning (K&N), cabin air filter replacement, battery swap...
• The rest doesn't quite matter

Last thing I've done is changing the gearbox oil. I was happy to do so when I saw the stock gearbox fluid that was kind of brownish and the magnet was covered with black, dirty "goo".
Everybody seems to be praising the Motul Gear 300, so I put some in my gearbox. 2.25l (service manual states 2.2l). No oil would come out of the filler plug (car was up and level).
The gearbox is now harsher. It's kind of sporty but feels more "anti-mechanical" compared to the stock gearbox oil. Feels like the gears are grinding more. Should I let the oil "break in"? Temperature are around 50°F so it's definitely not temperture-related.

Plus, I noticed a leak in the engine compartment. See picture.
Should I be worried? It's on the driver side, next to the header (that you can see on the top of the picture).

http://petrolistes.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG_2656.jpg

I'm trying to make the car as reliable as possible to prepare the 2019 track days season. The car has only been tracked once at around 10kkm.

A big thank you to everyone who will shine in.

Nothing to worry about. That specific leak is common and the repair is quite difficult.


There was nothing wrong with the oil in your transmission. The golden color is from the soft bronze blocking rings in the syncros. The black goo is steel worn from the gears. The magnet in the plug permanently captures the steel over the life of the transmission.


The Gear 300 is a little thinner than the stock oil. That's what you feel and hear. It's fine. If it is not what you expected, you can always go back to stock fluid. Personally, I like Redline MT90. It's closer to how the stock fluid feels.

Yea, like @Ultramaroon said, that little seeping of oil is nothing to worry about.

Not to worry unless it starts making a puddle under the car where you park.


humfrz

I just did a replacement of my trans fluid at 75k Motul MotylGear. My previous was at 30k wth the same stuff.
I've found the "new" oil has some grinding when I downshifted at +4k RPM. I'm thinking the oil just needs to 'break in'?

If anybody knows better please feel free to share some insight, but that's my current hypothesis.

To all, thanks for the answers.

I was surprised as well... With everybody praising the Motul Gear 300, I was expecting the gearbox to feel smoother (especially in first and second), and it's the exact opposite. Now I, sometimes, have to push the gear much harder than with the stock Toyota oil. Maybe the stock transmission oil is of better quality here in Europe.
Disappointed for the moment.

I have two more questions (or recommendation requests):
- The AC is squeaking but only when it starts. And, since it starts quite often (every 15/20 seconds or so on a low level of ventilation), it kind of irritates me. Do you know what part of the AC compressor I should lubricate to prevent this?

- My seat belt is squeaking as well. If you have a solution that doesn't involve WD-40 that would ruin my seat and clothes, I'm all ear!

Check the wear on your serpentine belt, maybe it needs to be replaced. My AC would squeak at times but only if I was driving through deep water(hurricane).

As for the seat belt squeaking, remove it from the car and spray the internals with some white lithium grease?

Good call!
I think it's time for a new accessories belt.
Thanks goodness there are so many people publishing DIY videos over the internet.

While I'm at it, any recommendation on a good EL header to correct the torque dip? I was driving a gutted stock header with OFT Stage 2 maps. I had to go back to the stock header and stage 1 to pass inspection and do miss the extra punch of the stage 2 (but I don't miss the smell and the terrible sound of the gutted cat...).

The accessory belt is really easy to change, if you need more room to work you can always remove the intake up to the throttle body.

I have a UEL header, I wanted that Subaru rumble so I can't recommend any EL headers considering I don't have experience with them.

WD-40 is not a lubricant. It is actually a drying agent. WD stands for Water Displacement. It is a special formula that is a mix of volatile hydrocarbons, surfactants, and yes, fish oil.


I don't have a solution for the squeaky seat belt except to disassemble, clean, and apply a thin dab of general-purpose grease as needed.

If it's the mechanism that is squeaking I would suggest a shot of silicone spray.


humfrz

:slap: well now Wil, ya jest can't have it ALL!

:D


humfrz

:bs:


….and you know it - :sigh:


humfrz

Oh shit, not again.

Back in the day we used wd-40 for breaking nuts, and other stuff because there was nothing else. Now there are far superior products.

Don't use it for anything but keeping your rockets from rusting.

Of course there was - an oil can filled with kerosene - :D


humfrz

I believe it. Show me where it doesn't have any.

I don't see any listed - :iono:

https://www.wd40.com/files/pdf/msds-wd482671453.pdf


Show me where it does.


;)


humfrz

Their very own website:
Myth: WD-40® contains fish oil. Fact: Consumers have told us for years that they've caught some of the biggest fish ever after protecting their fish hooks and lures with WD-40®. We believe this legend came from folks assuming the product must contain fish oil since it appears to attract fish. Sorry Charlie®, it just ain’t so. Learn more

https://www.wd40.com/cool-stuff/myths-legends-fun-facts

Also:

From maintaining a GT86 to fishing science. This is why I love this forum

Fact: WD40 works incredibly well as a surface protectant and cleaner, and quite well as a water-displacing "wire dryer." However, it excels in situations requiring short term low viscosity lubrication followed by rapid gumming up and accumulation of dirt. In situations where short term gain followed by long term and increasing difficulties requiring extensive cleaning and lubrication with actual and correct lubricants is desired, WD40 is the product for this application. If you like to fix things, use WD40...you'll get to fix them more often.


I know it's a fact because I wrote it, and now it's on the interwebs.

What are the non-hazardous ingredients? You know better than to base it on an MSDS.

Hey, THAT works! Haven't gone to the website in years. :thumbup:

OK, round 2 - :D

A few years later the company made an aerosol spray version and the rest, as they say, is history. WD-40 does not contain fish oil, contrary to a popular myth, nor does it contain silicone, kerosene, water, wax, graphite, chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs).Jul 24, 2009

https://www.livescience.com/7818-wd-...cts-myths.html

https://brokensecrets.com/2010/06/11...ents-and-uses/


:popcorn:


humfrz

.

I learned how to change my clutch with these DIY videos, along with helpful tips from members on this forum. :thumbsup: A serpentine belt should be a lot easier.
If you were in the states, there's plenty of good header recommendations, but I'm not sure what brands you have access to over there..?

Fake news

OK, old man, have it your way - :iono:

:D



humfrz

Are you able to get the Ace stuff? Ace 350 is a pretty penny, but is the best through the range. Not quite as strong up top as the 250 or 150, but more through the power band you're in most of the time (unless you're just on track...)

I've been reading things on headers ever since I got the car in 2014 but never quite pulled the trigger on one apart from that used gutted stock header.
My requirements were and are still:
- No rasp. I absolutely hate raspy exhaust.
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bvtVyhv3qsg[/ame] even a tiny bit of rasp, like in this video
Could a wrap avoid raspiness? Well, I'm not a big fan of wrap either... apparently they deteriorate the exhaust quicker.
- EL preferably
- Best correction of the torque dip (yes EL is not the best for this...)
- Least heat in the engine bay
- under 1000$
- Something that makes the best out of the OTS tunes


I really thing the Ace Header is too much... 1600$ + 1000$ tune + customs taxes 500$... I'd rather go FI at this point.
In French we say, we can't have the butter and the money for the butter (don't worry, I am Belgian, not French).

I'm not in a hurry so I might want to get a used one.

The problem is, with the GT86 is that, you don't want to throw too much money in it since, for 10k more, you can easily a mid-engined, 6-cylinder beauty from Stuttgart, if you see what I mean...

Regarding the maintenance, I'll replace the serpentine belt this weekend. I'll keep you updated, for those interested.
Have a nice day

I feel like my overall car's behaviour has changed with the new oil...
Is it me or could it be possible that the differential oil has an impact on how the rear of the car behaves?

I feel that, overall, my car is now kind of 'blurry', I feel now that there is a noticeable transition when the transmission is under load or not. Especially with the diff. The rear of the car becomes kind of 'wavy' if that makes sense for you. Like if the dampening was softer when I release the throttle.

Could that be possible?
Overall I feel like the car is heavier. I will see if I get the same feeling with an empty tank. Might just be the fuel moving that creates this effect.

Ohhhh, myyyyyyy - I suggest you consult with your physician, your medications may need adjusting - :eyebulge:

:iono:

:sigh:


humfrz

I'm in a similar place to OP, I have a basic understanding of mechanical engineering. I've done a handful of things to my car and usually the new stuff is how I learn.

My car is now at 37k miles and I'm still working down some of the 30k maintenance. This weekend I'll be cleaning the MAF, Throttle Body, and running some fuel injector cleaner.

Bigger projects include putting the car on jack stands and taking the wheels off to inspect the suspension, rotate tires, inspect the parking break, and check the transmission oil.

I see it as a fun way to learn and practical because it saves me money. My hope is to make any mistakes on this car so that if I upgrade to something nicer I have more knowledge / confidence going into it.

Sorry to dig out this thread but I'm still stunned to see how harsh my transmission have become after putting some Motul Gear 300 in my gearbox and Gear 300 LS in my diff.
I've now read in the owner's manual that our cars are supposed to be filled with :
- API GL3 and SAE 75w90 for the gearbox
- API GL5 and SAE 75W85 for the diff

While the Motul Gear 300 is a API GL4/GL5 and SAE 75W90 and the 300 LS GL5 and SAE 75W90, neither perfectly fit what Toyota recommends.
Well, I know I might be comparing apples to apples but can someone explain how such difference can make such an effect on my car? Going from 3rd to 2nd is a pain in the ass without mentioning how stuck first and reverse sometimes can be. And I was obviously expecting the exact opposite when I changed the oil.

Check your fluid levels, my friends manual wasn't harsher at all with a fluid change

Fluid is low, make sure you add until it overflows

As already pointed out it's a standard feature on this car. I saw where someone on this forum used RTV to seal the area externally and it hasn't leaked in a year. I think I would go that route vs pulling and resealing the timing cover. You aren't going to hurt anything sealing it from the outside. Worst case it still leaks and you just scrape it off and try again.

Okay.. I managed to find the post:
https://www.ft86club.com/forums/show...5&postcount=24

Not convinced that sealing the timing cover will fix his latest tranny and diff concerns.

It is only a feature on the 13s. I have never leaked a drop and don't hear of many other post 13s that have either.

I specifically quoted the question about the timing cover leak. No where did I say anything about his tranny or diff. I guess you are just kidding or something.

I'm not 100% sure (I did fluid change a year ago so forgot some of the stuff), but our cars use brass synchro in the transmission, and either GL4 or GL5 is bad for brass synchro (forgot which) so if possible go with the recommended GL3.

As for the diff, I think LS is not necessary in our torsen diff, but it should only changes the locking behaviour, no damage shall be done

GL-4 in the transmission (I like Redline MT90)
GL-5 in the diff