When you start maintaining your car yourself...
 

Hi everyone,
My beloved 2013 Toyota GT86 has now achieved 30k miles (48kkm).
Since it's out of warranty I'm now doing the maintenance myself because I've read so much on the FT86 Forums that I felt it was within reach.

I had two objectives maintaining and learning.

Now I have a couple of questions, but here's what I've done so far:

• Engine oil change (Castrol 0w30)
• Gearbox oil change (Motul Gear 300)
• Differential oil change (Motul Gear 300 LS)
• Brake pads cleaning
• Air Filter cleaning (K&N), cabin air filter replacement, battery swap...
• The rest doesn't quite matter

Last thing I've done is changing the gearbox oil. I was happy to do so when I saw the stock gearbox fluid that was kind of brownish and the magnet was covered with black, dirty "goo".
Everybody seems to be praising the Motul Gear 300, so I put some in my gearbox. 2.25l (service manual states 2.2l). No oil would come out of the filler plug (car was up and level).
The gearbox is now harsher. It's kind of sporty but feels more "anti-mechanical" compared to the stock gearbox oil. Feels like the gears are grinding more. Should I let the oil "break in"? Temperature are around 50°F so it's definitely not temperture-related.

Plus, I noticed a leak in the engine compartment. See picture.
Should I be worried? It's on the driver side, next to the header (that you can see on the top of the picture).

http://petrolistes.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG_2656.jpg

I'm trying to make the car as reliable as possible to prepare the 2019 track days season. The car has only been tracked once at around 10kkm.

A big thank you to everyone who will shine in.

Nothing to worry about. That specific leak is common and the repair is quite difficult.


There was nothing wrong with the oil in your transmission. The golden color is from the soft bronze blocking rings in the syncros. The black goo is steel worn from the gears. The magnet in the plug permanently captures the steel over the life of the transmission.


The Gear 300 is a little thinner than the stock oil. That's what you feel and hear. It's fine. If it is not what you expected, you can always go back to stock fluid. Personally, I like Redline MT90. It's closer to how the stock fluid feels.

Yea, like @Ultramaroon said, that little seeping of oil is nothing to worry about.

Not to worry unless it starts making a puddle under the car where you park.


humfrz

I just did a replacement of my trans fluid at 75k Motul MotylGear. My previous was at 30k wth the same stuff.
I've found the "new" oil has some grinding when I downshifted at +4k RPM. I'm thinking the oil just needs to 'break in'?

If anybody knows better please feel free to share some insight, but that's my current hypothesis.

To all, thanks for the answers.

I was surprised as well... With everybody praising the Motul Gear 300, I was expecting the gearbox to feel smoother (especially in first and second), and it's the exact opposite. Now I, sometimes, have to push the gear much harder than with the stock Toyota oil. Maybe the stock transmission oil is of better quality here in Europe.
Disappointed for the moment.

I have two more questions (or recommendation requests):
- The AC is squeaking but only when it starts. And, since it starts quite often (every 15/20 seconds or so on a low level of ventilation), it kind of irritates me. Do you know what part of the AC compressor I should lubricate to prevent this?

- My seat belt is squeaking as well. If you have a solution that doesn't involve WD-40 that would ruin my seat and clothes, I'm all ear!

Check the wear on your serpentine belt, maybe it needs to be replaced. My AC would squeak at times but only if I was driving through deep water(hurricane).

As for the seat belt squeaking, remove it from the car and spray the internals with some white lithium grease?

Good call!
I think it's time for a new accessories belt.
Thanks goodness there are so many people publishing DIY videos over the internet.

While I'm at it, any recommendation on a good EL header to correct the torque dip? I was driving a gutted stock header with OFT Stage 2 maps. I had to go back to the stock header and stage 1 to pass inspection and do miss the extra punch of the stage 2 (but I don't miss the smell and the terrible sound of the gutted cat...).

The accessory belt is really easy to change, if you need more room to work you can always remove the intake up to the throttle body.

I have a UEL header, I wanted that Subaru rumble so I can't recommend any EL headers considering I don't have experience with them.

WD-40 is not a lubricant. It is actually a drying agent. WD stands for Water Displacement. It is a special formula that is a mix of volatile hydrocarbons, surfactants, and yes, fish oil.


I don't have a solution for the squeaky seat belt except to disassemble, clean, and apply a thin dab of general-purpose grease as needed.

If it's the mechanism that is squeaking I would suggest a shot of silicone spray.


humfrz

:slap: well now Wil, ya jest can't have it ALL!

:D


humfrz

:bs:


….and you know it - :sigh:


humfrz

Oh shit, not again.

Back in the day we used wd-40 for breaking nuts, and other stuff because there was nothing else. Now there are far superior products.

Don't use it for anything but keeping your rockets from rusting.

Of course there was - an oil can filled with kerosene - :D


humfrz