2013 BRZ Ls1 5.7, Hydra Nemesis
 

Here is a list of probably 90% of the parts needed to do the swap and updates of how it sits currently. I'm still playingwith the tune, but it is drivable. I definately do not have traction even running 255 tires but this thing is super fun. I am guestimating that I'm making somewhere around 350hp which I think is plenty for me as of now. I still need to install my ISC coil overs and drop it maybe an inch to inch and a half. The CX Racing y pipe sits pretty low even on stock ride height. Lastly, I am digging my 17x9 Mach V Awesome wheels which clears my Brembos and are super light weighing in at 17.8lbs.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...43b7f075c8.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a57bee95ea.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a480a8a783.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...8d751b1003.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...d35ccb50a3.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f6d1983885.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...23bc65dbf5.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...5a768e6ec1.jpg

Looks good can't wait to see more. How will you be running your can bus accessories? Have not seen a swap thread using the Hydra unit.

Thanks. The Hydra is a complete standalone that is capable of running 95% of the accessories. The only thing that it lacks are runnning cruise control and DBW TB. A few people are running it and Element Tuning uses it for their swapped FRS/BRZ. You can refer to Phil at ET if you have any technical questions though. Once I get it running I'll be able to provide more feedback.

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Sounds good thanks.

Attempt number one of installing the engine and trans was a failure. It wasn't a surprise due to me not removing the tunnel brace. Just wanted to see if I could massage it instead of cutting it out. The sway bar seems to be in the way also. I'm running a GTO pan and CX mounts. Any recommendations to get them to clear? I'm sure once I remove the brace they'll fall into place.

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I am swapping a ls1 and t56 into a 2013 brz using the cx mounts. Im on the second whole and definitely had to cut and massage the tunnel. Check out Spitsnaugles build page he has some good pictures of the transmission tunnel points that will need to be cut and or beaten with a large hammer. Also the sway bar should clear but you may have to notch out a little metal on the trans to get more clearance (also a pic on spitsnaugles page) depends on what hole you use on the cx mounts. Also removing the sway bar may make dropping in the engine and trans a little easier and then put it back on and check clearance. Hope this helps

Got the engine in. Had to remove the sway bar and put the rear end on jackstands. That helped a lot with room. As of now I have the engine too far back and will not clear the clutch master cylinder. I'll probably move the engine forward a hole or 2. I might have to space the motor mounts and subframe; grind the rib on the steering rack to get better clearance with the pan. I haven't install the trans bracket yet so that might be contributing to the reason the pan not clearing. I have good clearance in the trans tunnel, but might have to massage one area. Cutting the tabs off the trans helped a lot with clearance. I will probably also bend and move the fuel lines/brake lines to avoid any excessive heat from the headers along with wrapping them in thermal tape. Will get to these tasks tomorrow.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...2315c15e6c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...be96cb29ed.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...1366864955.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...54ea3a1c8d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b3278cbe5b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...adc9e84c2f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...d036b5cbee.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...3fda3a6667.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...2354f481ff.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...93b09e7a18.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...9851d7dd3f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...ef75844eb3.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...13f0c2020b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a7207624f3.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...ef99ae5e10.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...e4dc40aa5c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...3de4274bb7.jpg

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Got good clearances on everything except the heater core pipes. I really didn't want to cut them; possibly bend them down some?
Oil pan and CMC clears now that the trans bracket is mounted. Shifter sits in the perfect location.
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Sway bar should fit with modification to the oil pan

Edit, If you weren't married to that master cylinder, I believe Spitsnaugle used a different one that was recessed into the firewall. That would give you all the clearance you could want between that and the valve cover. Are you running AN hoses or regular rubber?

Got everything installed and fired up and running Dec 18th. As I'm now I'm just trying to street tune the car. I have 2 leaks; 1 at the tail shaft and 1 at the oil pan sensor ports. Will fix those after the holidays and finish tuning it. Lastly is finish the exhaust cutout and getting the intake installed. Heres how it sits as of now.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f95b7cacc7.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...0241f2b782.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...aa6f03d0d0.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...bb92b622ec.jpg

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Dude that is beautiful! I hope I get to a video of it running!:burnrubber:

Are you running your steam line straight to the radiator cap? I have the cx aluminum hardlines (looks like yours). I wasn't sure if that nipple by the cap is for the overflow or steam line?

I tee'd the steam port, radiator cap to the overflow tank.

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Got it i think i can see it in one of the pictures now thanks. Its looking great so far by the way!