Good idea, if the plates go with the car in Wisconsin. The look-em internet site may charge you a few bucks, but it would be worth it.


humfrz

What would that indicate? Seriously, I don't know - :iono:


humfrz

I oughtta :slap: ya for poo poo-ing the newbies deal.- :D

Hell, if he doesn't get crazy with it, and keeps it off the tracks, it could last quite a while.


humfrz

Forged builds have more piston to bore clearance because forged pistons expand more than cast pistons when hot, so during a cold start the forged motor will be slapping away.

Thank ya - I learned something today - :thumbsup:


humfrz

I have a friend with a 420whp brz on stock internals and he's selling it for $24k. I highly doubt your motor is built. Not to be rude, but it's a ticking bomb.

This is also why a "build" may (read: will if it's a loose build) oval out your bore, thus shortening the blocks lifespan.

Metallurgy has come along way with pistons, less expansion so a tighter tolerance is achievable.

i.e. 4032 vs 2618

Yeah...metallurgy rocks

https://www.google.com.au/amp/blog.j...%3fhs_amp=true

Thanks for the information - :w00t:

Oh, my, this more powerful engine stuff is getting complex - :confused0068:

Back-in-the-day it was simple - more displacement - more carburetors - higher lift cam = MORE POWER - :happyanim:

humfrz - lost in the 50s

Seems like most of the posts I see from humfrz reference carburetors...definitely stuck in the wrong century there.

From what I remember, if you were running 300hp atw in your V8 you were doing well, now, that 300hp is easily achievable with a 4 pot and a small charger.

I remember thinking how powerfull and good handling my 72 Holden LJ GTR with its built and cammed 202 with triple Stromies was.

It probably pushed out a whooping 200hp and weighed about 1000kg.

Or my old stockish ZD Ford Fairlaine 351 which was about 250hp at the crank and weighed about 1500kg

Both relatively on par now power to weight with my, what I consider slow, 2.0l 86

Ahhh, the good old days

At least the 86 doesn't try and kill me going around corners.


Hhmmmmm, now I want to buy a old classic Aussie muscle car, hhmmmm, if I can afford the fuel that is.

Nah, not wrong - just different - ;)

At least we didn't hafta to have a dang computer to tune up a 4-cycle, 4 stroke, internal combustion, gasoline engine - :D

And, we didn't have to take the engine out of the car and tear it all apart just to adjust the valves or replace the valve springs.

Now, who's stuck in the wrong century? - :D


humfrz

Now, ain't that the truth. While we are back-in-the-day, I remember the first car that I rode in that I thought was really fast was my friends older brothers 1957 Chevrolet 270. 283 cu in, 2 - 4 barreled carburetors (jest fer @Brink), and a higher lift cam, which that engine generated 270 HP at the crank.

Now, my FR-S is probably faster than that car was …. but, it sure don't seem like it - :confused0068:

Yep, I'd love to have one of those sitting in my garage - just something about the sound of 2, 4 barreled carbs sucking air and the sound of a 283 cu in V-8's exhaust, coming out of two glass packs, that is music to my ears.- :sigh:


humfrz

I agree, a big cubed cammed up monster lopping along at idle, nothing sounds as good.

My fav car was a friends Holden HQ ute, it had a cammed up 454, a 2 speed power glide and a straight through exhaust, that thing sounded like war on launch, and the car would rock on idle.

Sweet

This is more of a longevity thing, but I'd get it re tuned on Ecutek by one of the Ecutek master tuners (Delicious Tuning, HRI Tuning, Moto East, I'm sure I'm missing some, but you pick). OFT is fine for NA, but you'll want what Ecutek has to offer. (boost cut failsafes, switchable maps on the fly, flex fuel, etc.)

I'm not trying to sound like an Ecutek shill either. I genuinely have another enthusiast's best interests in mind here.