Help, Electeical problem?
 

Hi not sure if this should go here or under elctronics. So I purchased a 2013 frs manual back in 2015, certified preowned from bob smith toyota in la crescenta. The car was owned by one of their sales people previously.

Last saturday night when I was driving home I noticed my abs and traction control lights(the one you get when it activates) were on. I pulled over and turned the car on and off, and it went away. I drove the car to work monday and tuesday about 20mi round trip with no issues. Wednesday when I left for work I noticed the lights came on immediately l, I turned the car on and off and they came right back on. As I was entering the freeway, accelerating steadily the acceleration seemed to cut out for a moment, then came back, it did this two times. When I arrived at work I noticed that when the headlights are off and the brake is pressed the clock turns off and the radio buttons illuminate(usually only happens whe the head lights are on). And when the head lights are on they both work normally.

I decided to take it to the dealer afterwork. When I got there they immediately started with the blame game. Before even looking at it saying its the aftermarket headunit, and I should take it back to who installed it and have them clean up their wiring. Otherwise they would have to charge me $140 to trace the wires. They also mentioned the aftermarket intake(which is a trd intake installed by them), and the aftermarket exhaust(ark dts), if I had a tune, and asked if I drift the car or do burnouts(which I dont). So anyway I opted for the $140 for them to trace the wires.

They called me the next day and said they went as far as they could for $140. They said they noticed no acceleration issue and said they found three codes, c1231, c1241, c1249. They said they worked on it for 3 plus hours and took the dash apart and all the wiring is spaghetti under the dash. They said "tech found higher resistance then listed in spec from repair manual, soec is below 1ohm and found 2.3 ohms. They recomend chasing the steering angle sensor circut and removing the dash to see where the resistance is coming from". And that will be another $840 at least. They said I should go have the headunit rewired. They also said I should not drive the car as it is unsafe because the traction control and abs are not currently working. Upon leaving the dealer I noticed the acceleration issue two more times making a total of 4 times.

They only aftermarket electronics I have installed are
Didoe dynamics multicolored running lights which are wirres at the running light bulb location in the headlights and have no splicing or mods to factory wiring. It has a rear 4th brake light kit that I beleive has only 3 connections to factory wiring on the brake light. Both have been on the car for a couple years with no issue. The dealer didnt mention either of these mods as a possible issue.

And an aftermarket headunit and backup camera. The headunit is a CA-FI Dashlinq 4.1 and was installed by Fuzion Technique along with the backup camera they supplied. Im pretty sure the only wiring done for that was right behind the headunit and most of it was connected plug and play with a harness. This was done early 2015 and have no poblems with either.

Dose anyone have any suggestions what do or where to take it? I am going to call Fuzion Technique today to see what they say. I just dont want to cause more problems by having things rewired especially if they screwed it up to begin with. Im dont think it has to do with the headunit, but Im not sure. This weekend I am going to look behind the headunit an trace the wires to see if in fact all the wiring for it is right behind it.

Unless the installer for your HU did something very unusual, there should be no way that any of the wiring involved with the head unit would cause the issues that you are experiencing. If you have the factory head unit, I would reinstall it, which takes about 5 minutes on these cars, and take it back to the dealer so they can't blame it any more. They should be making these repairs under your certified warranty. You could also try a different dealership.

Thats what I was thinking. Unfortunately its out of factory warranty and under extended warranty which apparently dosent cover electrical issues.

That head unit had a Can-bus connection right?

I've seen aftermarket Can-bus accessories installed with just twisted-taped connections that made a truck go crazy.

Otherwise, your first two codes seem to be power supply related, both circuits are on the same fuse, but a wonky Can-bus isn't free from suspicion, your third code is a stuck on/off brake switch, not electrically related, but I could see an installer using the brake switch instead of the park brake switch to enable a head unit's video function.

Ideally I would have liked to know if any other modules had communications DTC.

I pulled the hu out and disconnected the 3 harnesses. There was 5 wires left that ran from the hu into the dash, 1 was th ipod connection, one was the usb connection, and one was for the gps module on he dash. Leaving 2 unconfirmed wires heading twoard the steering wheel. A small purple one and a thicker black one about the same size as the gps. I ran the car will everything but these 3 disconected and still had the same issues. Nothing on the car side of the connections looked modified in anyway. Below are a couple pictures.


https://beta-static.photobucket.com/...080&fit=bounds

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/...080&fit=bounds

After a little more investigation I found where the 2 wires lead, the black on to the back, probably the reverse camera and the purple one spliced into a pink wire behind the hood release pannel.

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/...080&fit=bounds

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/...080&fit=bounds

I beleive it is can bus, but could be wrong. And not sure what you mean by communications dtc.

Modules on a network store trouble codes that pertain to network communication when there is a fault is said network.

Example: stock head unit on a lancer ralliart was shorting the can bus lines, taking down the whole body network, other computers in the car had dtcs stating communication timeout, like the transmission trying to talk to the shift lever and failing. Coupled with a network topography diagram, it's handy for getting a rough idea of what's going on.

[Looking at your pictures]

Damn that is a mess, if anyone brought me something with strange electrical issues and that is what I found, i'd be pissed, but still, press on we must. You say you've got a wire heading towards the steering, and you've got a steering angle sensor power supply dtc, go check that something want bodged in there.

I located all the wires. The purple one is spliced into a pink wire behind the panel by the hood release and the black one heads toward the rear(backup camera im guessing). I edited in pic of the purple and pink connection in my previous post. The pink wire had some broken strands, so i pinched and twisted the bare copper together and reconncted. I drove the car 20miles, and no lights. Still having the brake issue. I ran a code diagnostic with my odbii reader through torque and found nothing. Not sure if this is the correct tool to read those codes or not.

The purple wire might be the light dimmer for the headunit

Looking at the pictures it is an easy fix. Cut the purple wire!!!!


But first cut the red wire.

Bubba says to take the whole damn radio out, clear the codes by disconnecting the battery, reconnect the battery and drive it around to see if the codes come back - :iono:


humfrz for Bubba

That splice on the pink is making me want to puke, that's why I'll never trust "installers".

I also *just* noticed you said you had a 4th brake light mod... and you've got funky stuff going on with the brake switch. I don't know how it was wired, but if it was wired directly to the brake switch with more than one wire, I know it's been done wrong, disconnect it.

http://i68.tinypic.com/54b2ae.png

Adding a 4th brake light should be two wires: One 12v on the brake light wire and one ground in the back of the car.

This morrning as soon as I started it the lights trac and abs light came back. Funny is now the issue with the brake and clock hs stoped lol. When I get the chance I will unpluge the hu including the purple wire, and check the 4th brake light. I belive that is either 2 or 3 wires spliced into the factory wiring in the back. I did that myself I cant remeber if it was 2 or 3 wires, will check when later.

you might have something wrong with your brake light switch, but first always check the EZ stuff go under the drive side footwell area and pull out the "STOP" 7.5A fuse and check it