CEL/TC light code P000A
 

Hello all! As the title states

Was driving this morning and was at a stoplight and CEL/TC light came on, Took it to AutoZone pulled the code "P000A" then right after I left Auto zone the CEL turned off, is this a issue that will be recurring and should be maintained ASAP or am I just overreacting ..?

Thanks!

Did it come back?

I faced the same problem. P000A came up 2 weeks ago. I dropped it off at the dealership and they replaced the Oil Solenoid Valve. Got my car back last week. Yesterday the same code came up :(

Do you have any mods on your car? I noticed that this issue started coming up after I installed a catback exhaust. First 2 times p0016/p0018 came up. And next 2 times p000A. All in a 6 months period(2 weeks after I installed the exhaust)

Checked your oil level?

These codes are for a SLOW RESPONSE on the VVT system. This works with oil pressure.

If you straight up want to fix this on the internet without having a professional look at it, clean the crankcase and oil system by putting seafoam in the oil, put a broomstick on the gas pedal so it keeps a 1500 rpm fast idle, let it run like that for 15 minutes, dump the oil, idle it for a few minutes with an incomplete fill (no need to waste 5+ liters, give it 3-4~ish), then dump that and change the filter for a GOOD QUALITY or OE filter.

Start your fill with 5 liters of QUALITY SYNTHETIC, run the engine until the oil is at operating temperature, park it and wait 5 minutes to check the dipstick. Add the missing splash of oil. (should be about 5.4 for a full fill hot).

@iclouhd @goku1902

Did your problems ever get fixed permanently?
Both CEL and Slip light came on for me, and threw a P000A. Trying to make a list of all potential culprits.

https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=142077

This seems to be the case for me as I found my OCVs (solenoids) are leaking into the connector and threw P000c and P000a codes. Before a hard driving one night, I had no problem driving the car, but once the code came up, the idle became inconsistent.

At the moment, I'm waiting for the solenoids to arrive and trying to avoid driving it as much as possible.

Mine is a 2016, so I hope it has the latest revision...?
It's impossible to get the dealerships to do any work - they always wanna get away with the least amount of work they can do.
They changed my oil, drove for 20+ miles, and said it's all good. I might just pay for the solenoids myself.
By the way, with the new solenoids, is it just plug and play? Or do I need to set the plunger depth, etc.?

Sent from a potato

In my understanding, the solenoids are just plug and play. I'm going to disconnect the batter before cleaning the connector with an electrical cleaner just like what the post shows. To make sure your solenoids are leaking, pull out the connector and see if there is any oil sipped into the connector. 3 out of 4 of mine did.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e7jg...l=subtledriver

This video will help you understand the process to install the solenoid.


Anyways, hope this will resolve my issue. When I cleaned up the connector area, the idle and everything else felt find until enough oil leaked into the connector and mess up again.

I was just watching that video when I got the notification about your post!

Great minds...

Yea I'll definitely keep an eye on the solenoids. And on a side note, this will be my last boxer engine. Too much pain to do any major work on it!

Sent from a potato

Hey @Ultramaroon, I got this image from your signature.
In order to test the OCVs to make sure they don't have any oil leaking or electrical shorting inside, can you check the resistance while it is mounted on the engine? Or do they need to be removed?Attachment 192886

Sent from a potato

No need to remove. I'm surprised that there isn't a check for internal short to ground. I'd do that out of habit. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯