What now?
 

Hey all,

I have had my '13 BRZ since they released, and have loved every day! I like to keep my mods cheap, never over 1k, and I am looking for some recommendations. Here's what I've got so far;

Openflash tablet - 93 octane stage 1 v4.03
3" catback exhaust by Perrin
Whiteline Gearbox bushing
Perrin Rear shifter bushing
Stoptech Stainless steel brake line kits
Stoptech Slotted rotors
K&N cold air intake - cone
Master cylinder brace
Fuel starvation door
340LPH Fuel Pump AEM

I was wondering what mod would complement these the most, or be the next most logical. Was thinking of injectors/rail now that I have a new fuel pump, but not sure if that would be better than going for headers next.

I have a limited budget, can only afford one big item a year really, so what should it be? What do you guys have done and would recommend? What helped the most, had the largest impact? let me know!

get a nice pair of italian driving loafers & profit

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kzLjZWrpzmQ[/ame]





welcome :wub:

Header!!:thumbsup:

And you can get a good header without spending a ton, People seem to love the Gruppe UEL and it’s about 400-500. The Borla UEL is about 600-700 too. There’s no requirement to spend the 1000+ some of us do on JDL and ACE (myself included).

Gruppe has an ongoing Group Buy for their UEL. If interested check out their thread: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=81839

No offense intended, but none of your current mods has changed the car in any significant way. Why are you doing fuel pump and injectors etc. on a stock car?

What are you going for?

Headers would be by far the most logical. Since you have the OFT, get the openflash header to compliment it!

For a Modification I would have to agree with GOOD header! ACE or similar. With it being a 13 I am sure the struts are shit by now may want to upgrade them.

This feels like a troll.

lmao no. Not only is the ACE noticeably outside of his price range but it is absurd to imply that other headers are not "GOOD". With the ace you are paying $500+ more than the competing headers to get the last ~5% of gains. For some people that makes sense but for a large majority that is overkill.

Honestly, buy better brake pads, tires, and use the rest for track days/auto X.

But really, why would you want high flow fuel pump? You only need that if you are going FI.
If you want your butt dyno and the rest of the ricers to feel better just get the headers and tune.

Slotted rotors are a scam. Get better pads.
SS brake lines are just a fancy jacket over normal new brake lines.
K&N cone intake has marginal gains compared to a K&N drop in filter. You can just buy a one piece hose for $30 that's exactly the same result/look as the K&N kit.

Bushings and braces, makes it feel nice and tighter. Also more vibrations if you don't mind that. But minimal.

Just my two cents.

Looks like I'll be going for headers next. A lot of my mods have been from friend recommendations, or other forum posts.

Can anyone clarify how changing headers affects inspection? I live in a state that does do emissions testing as part of inspection, is changing to OFT headers going to fail my inspection? It's the reason I chose a cat-back system in the first place, concerns about failing emissions testing.

And I did buy the stoptech pads when I bought the rotors and lines, plus pilot super sport tires. That's been great.

Haven't noticed any issues with the struts yet, but if I find some cheap enough ones I do think 6 years is a good time to get new ones haha. Recommendations?

That depends on how strict the inspection is. Are they doing a visual and using a sniffer? You might pass that if they don't care look under at the header. In California they just hook you up to OBDII and run your monitors. If they all run and no faults or codes show up, you're good. If you have a header and a tune that eliminates the codes, you should be ok.

That said, headers are pretty easy to replace on these cars, so you could just swap them when you need to go to inspection...

As for the struts, if Bilstein ever gets their distribution up and going again you should get their B6s. Otherwise, try to find a used set of 2017+ OEM Sachs dampers. Others members here will suggest Koni, but I'm not convinced on Koni due to past personal experience and the fact that many of their kits are shipped with dampers that are not paired well together.

Yes but you can gut the cat on your stock header and get 90% of the power. That puts you in the power range of cheap headers at no cost. That makes a cheap header the most expensive.

What are you smoking to make logic jumps like that?

Edit: Lets get into this.

Assuming your 90% is right that means you are getting 5% for ~500 (gruppe-s) as opposed to 10% for 1600.

So $100 / 1% or 160/1%.

How is the cheap one the most expensive?

You will not pass with a header in California, period, unless you have the only blind smog tech in the state.