Coilover newb questions
 

Hey Guys,

2013 frs 110k,

I just installed ISC coils, got it from a guy used.
Lowered the car 1 inch.
Couple questions,
I didn't change anything else than the shocks, kept the stock endlinks, just had to put little force into it when installing.
1. Do i need to change anything else with 1 inch lower?
2. Ride feels bumpy, i put 5mm preload on the springs, i think it was 10k and 10k springs front and rear. It has 1 clicker, i have it somewhere in the middle.
3. It didn't come with camber plates, Do i need camber plates for daily/ mountain road driving?
4. I hear rubbing sometimes when turning, i have stock wheels right now, and i can't pin point where it rubbing, because i don't see any rub marks. Does endlinks make rubbing noise when turning? the thing is, i don't hear it everytime, i hear it sometimes.
5. Vibrates sometimes on the highway, does stiffer suspension vibrate more, or my alignment is messed up? haven't gotten alignment.

Thanks,

15k and 10K:confused0068:

That is super stiff.

You can mostly get away without camber plates. Depends on the setup.

What tire/wheel combo are you running? Knowing that would help.

1. lowering within inch (vs stock. As for some coilovers max height can be lower then stock, lowering inch from their own max height might be lower then that of course) is reasonable for these cars. Going even lower then that may need extra suspension parts though, to fix geometry/roll center/diff riser and such.
2. Sounds like way too stiff springrates, as far as daily driving is considered. It might be justified on very sticky tires and for track use, but i certainly wouldn't choose such to drop my spine in pants on bad roads i drive car every day. You may regain slight comfort back from dialing softer rebound/compression rates, but i wouldn't count on it, as usually their ranges are tailored to match spring rates (as they should) and you may get unsettling vobling suspension and even then still harsher then stock. Not right tool for job, so in this case by paying cheap (or maybe those coilovers were freebies?) mostly you got downgrade in compliancy and comfort, with not gaining anything, unless you only track car.
3. Rephrase that. Do you need more camber then currently, do you need to change grip bias, do you need extra adjustability of camber? If you daily drive only, mostly one can get by without all that. Well, if you need, single set of camberbolts (front) should cover most of your needs.
4. Hmm, is that really tire rubbing that makes that noise or something else? Eg. endlinks, topmounts and such ..
5. I highly advise to get alignment. Though actually .. i'd probably would keep driving stock shocks/springs daily, not these (but if remounting back, i'd still get alignment done). Or if getting coilovers, then ones fit for purpose how and where i'll use car.

1) Get your alignment checked out first and report back. Most of the time you do not need anything else besides an alignment.

2) That spring rate seems awfully stiff and unbalanced.

3) At this point you probably don't need camber plates, though they are nice when you want to dial in camber in the front.

4) A trick you can do is put masking or duct tape on your fender liner and other possible points of rub.. go for a drive and see where it gets marked up.

5) Check everything is torqued down correctly. Check your alignment. Check that your preload is set correctly.

actually i think its 10k/10k. To be honest it's little stiffer than stock, but i don't really mind it when driving.

stock wheels right now, i got 17x8 konig on the way.

i'll get alignment after i get new wheels, still waiting for delivery.

1. Probably not. I would still get aftermarket adjustable endlinks to pull the preload that's now on the swaybar.
2. That's probably not helping, those springs are 2x stiffer than the stocks. (A ridiculous amount for a DD)
3. Depends on how much camber you ant up front.
4. sometimes.
5. Not good. Get an alignment done RIGHT NOW.
NOT after you get your wheels.
Your wheels don't affect alignment when you change them.

Your effective spring rate at the rear is much lower than at the front (approx 5.6k vs 8k). It might end up being a little under-steery.

Stock spring rates range from 2.3-2.7kg front and 3.3-3.8kg rear.

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8739

I'd back off the preload so that there is just enough to keep the springs from rattling when they are at full droop. I don't think I would worry about too much else besides getting an alignment. I'ts always going to ride pretty firm though.