2015 BRZ Transmission problem..
 

Hi it's my first time using this website as getting information i need..
I currently own 2015 brz series blue, i bought it about 3-4 months ago and it has 46k. performance wise (engine, trans, etc..) is stock. I have only done coilovers and set of rays wheels. So about the problem im having.. I think my input shaft is bad and here's why i think its bad
1. When the car is stopped and on neutral, i hear the consistent rattling sound. but goes away when the clutch is engaged (pedal is pressed down)
2. specially on 1st, 2nd, and 3rd i hear whining sound as i give more gas.. higher the RPM, the louder the noise is.
Im not saying its input shaft bearing but i would like to know if its going to cause a big problem or if its something else. I also looked into subaru powertrain warranty (5 yrs or 60k miles) and wants to know if anyone had a similar problem and got it fixed by the dealership under the warranty, being college student consistently worrying about the price to get it fixed :(

It's under warranty, take it to the dealer while it is still their problem.

Thank you! im glad to hear its still under warranty its such a relief because i gave subaru a call and they told me they cant discuss warranty until they diagnose the car first.

2015 BRZ Transmission problem..
 

Hi it's my first time using this website as getting information i need..
I currently own 2015 brz series blue, i bought it about 3-4 months ago and it has 46k. performance wise (engine, trans, etc..) is stock. I have only done coilovers and set of rays wheels. So about the problem im having.. I think my input shaft is bad and here's why i think its bad
1. When the car is stopped and on neutral, i hear the consistent rattling sound. but goes away when the clutch is engaged (pedal is pressed down)
2. specially on 1st, 2nd, and 3rd i hear whining sound as i give more gas.. higher the RPM, the louder the noise is.
Im not saying its input shaft bearing but i would like to know if its going to cause a big problem or if its something else. I also looked into subaru powertrain warranty (5 yrs or 60k miles) and wants to know if anyone had a similar problem and got it fixed by the dealership under the warranty, being college student consistently worrying about the price to get it fixed :(

The fact that the sound goes away when you press the clutch is a pretty clear indication it's the Throw Out Bearing.

Your car is under the 5 yr 60K warranty, take it in and get it replaced.

Unfortunately, the throw-out bearing and the fork are considered vehicle components, and hence covered under 3yr/36k mile warranty only. You can fight with Subaru of America if you want, but I'm not sure what good that will do.
If you have a good relationship with your local dealer, talk to them.

In neutral with the A/C on?? Or without A/C on?

There is a TSB for this to update to the redesigned part.

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=117440

Can't find the subaru specific one, but he should be able to get it changed based on that.
edit: Post #21 in the thread references Subaru TSB 03-77-17, dated 1/3/17 to cover 13'-17' model years. That would be the one I think you need

edit#2: My reading comphrension is bad and didnt notice he was already out of that 3yr/36k. My bad. Good luck OP!

AC off

but would it be a different story if the input shaft bearing is bad?

TOBs are notorious for failing on these cars. In 2017 they released a new bearing that will hopefully last longer. So if you have a 2013 to early 2017 then you will have the old bearing. You can get the bearing for $20 and it's not that bad of a job if you are up for the task. Mine went at 84K miles.

If the dealership diagnoses it as a transmission issue and repair under 60k warranty, pay for the bearing yourself and have them install it.

EDIT: I was assuming that the issue was the bearing. Have a proper diagnosis done on the issue. Who knows, it could be something else

#1 is pretty normal



#2 can also be normal, the "invisible supercharger" that goes away at higher speeds due to road noise



If it was a TOB noise it would be with the clutch pedal depressed (At least that was the case for me)

Mine was with the clutch not depressed, the squeal/howl would go away when I pushed the pedal down until the very end when the noise was worse with the pedal pressed.