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dual clutch in a auto brz
I don't really know much about cars, I have only done a few cosmetic mods along with headers, muffler delete, and OFT tunes. I was looking into adding a turbo. I have an auto BRZ, I have pretty much decided on the kit I want, but I was wondering if it is possible to swap out the stock Auto transmission for a dual clutch system, so that neutral could back accessed through the flappy paddle shifting and this mould allow for faster shifts, and the ability to launch. Any idea on the possibility of all of this?
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:burnrubber:
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Short answer. No.
Slightly longer answer. Anything is possible with enough money. My dream/hope is to sometime down the road run a R35 dual clutch transaxle in a custom rear subframe up to a custom mounted front diff running AWD. OR a BMW DCT. |
Not easily. I'm sure it's possible if you don't mind spending the money for it. Would likely have to custom make everything.
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Most companies are moving away from dual clutch transmissions (DCT), so your options are going to be limited. Your best bet might be a BMW DCT. That might be the most available DCT that was designed for a longitudinal engine and RWD setup.
Honestly I have no clue how many components go into the DCT that vary from a torque converter automatic. It is possible that the steering wheel inputs and the space for the gear selector would cross over. It is also possible that the transmission and it’s ECU could be self contained systems that only need engine RPM inputs and/or driver inputs to shift gears. Even if that was the case, and there wasn’t some need for a stand alone management system, at minimum there would need to be custom work like a custom driveshaft, a custom bell housing, custom interface to the engine, hammered out transmission tunnel and custom transmission mounts, again, besides the wiring and electronic interface. It’s been done. https://youtu.be/LdLinfqF-9k |
The auto shifts pretty good. If you want a launch car there are so many better choices than a BRZ.
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If you think accessing neutral through the "flappy paddles" will make shifting faster you're clueless. DCT systems shift so fast because it not only doesn't have a torque converter to lose energy in, but it's able to predict and "grab" another gear while another is engaged. You'd have to do some fancy ecu trickery to get it to work in one of the twins but if you have lots of money to burn can buy one off a crashed bmw or something and develop it yourself. I recommend investing in a 4.88 final drive it'll be noticeably faster and it'll give the oomph you're looking for. The gear ratio on the autos is long in some of the gears compared to the manual for fuel efficiency reasons. Getting a 4.88 final drive will put the car on par with if not past the manual. Also the muffler delete isn't doing much if any for power. If you're looking into turbos the 4.88 will pair and possibly "counter" the feel of turbo lag when launching. As others said this isn't a 0-60 launch from a dig car though..... As well as a 4.88 you can invest in a higher stall torque converter for launching and a valve body upgrade: https://www.sspperformance.com/brz-f...y-upgrade.html https://www.sspperformance.com/brz-f...converter.html Even though thats expensive it'd still be cheaper than shoe horning in a DCT..... |
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also this one http://www.ft86speedfactory.com/holi...l#.V8zbvqNlBnF https://youtu.be/bbKGRESi6ME |
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I think you need a motec ecu with that as well, and its meant for the manuals, as you'd have to not only get rid of the auto flexplate but add a flywheel and twin disk clutch on auto at the least :lol: |
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Hmm, which were cheapest sequential gearbox makers? Shouldn't something from eg. samsonas be much cheaper then holinger? In addition to sequential shifting pattern, i like that they can also be shifted clutchless. Pitty their high price. Hard to decide on if it is going to be installed in initially cheap car. Requires for it to be needed for very specific use/purpose, to justify price.
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You're FAR better off with a shorter final drive and a beefed up stock auto gearbox. With the torque converter you can build boost on the line by flooring the gas and holding the brakes. You can't build boost in neutral without anti-lag.
It would be VERY expensive (probably $30k+ all said) to swap in dual clutch gearbox as a one off. You'd have to find a gearbox that works and fits, get an adapter plate made so it'll attach to the engine, custom driveshaft, hydraulic or pneumatic work and possibly adding a pump to the engine, wiring, standalone ECU to control it, etc, etc, etc. |
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