Just since I was also searching for that information: The given assignment in Post #2 is incorrect. (Or I missunderstand the description) I know its late, but maybe important for other U's rwading this thread. Here is what the inspection manual says: (see chapter "port injector removal")
The top line in this picture (which is the most rear in the tripple plastic clamp) is fuel line #1, used for port injection.
The middel line (which is also the middle line in the tripple plastic clamp) is fuel line #2 which is the vapor/evap line.
The lower line (which is most to the Front in the tripple plastic clamp) is fuel line #3 used for DI.
Concerning the last question: #1 & #3 are both leading to the intank pump and gauge assembly. One line is coming from the pump and shortly after that it splits into two lines. Just T'ed. No valves or anything. So pretty much the same. Dont know the reason why they did it like that, maybe there is a Kind of Bad pulsation when DI and port are both working. But I'm not complaining, for a LS swap its perfect, no need to change for larger diameter fuel line.
@swappers: Be careful, not a good idea to missmatch those lines. You will float your charcoal canister through the EVAP vent line since its connected to the intank fuel pump if you T together lines #1&2. No fun to exchange that, since you need to remove the diff carrier assy to get to the evap canister.
Good thing is that you should not be able to run the (LS) engine if you did it like that. This beeing said, if somehow it should run (what I dont expect, but I wont try out) you will float your intake with fuel the second the Purge valve opens. Best case then would be a bent connecting rod, worst case is you have a expensive BBQ.
|
