Stud replacement without removing rear hub?
 

Can we do this too on our cars? He didn't remove the hub assembly and instead squeezed a 65mm stud in there after pulling out the handbrake. I am also using the same 2.5" ARP stud.

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nzm5wFFz1oo[/ame]

Yes, there is a write up somewhere on the forum.

You could try this but might as well just remove the axle nut at that point. The issue i had when doing mine was the wheel bearing would not come off the parking brake assembly. I ended up buying a bearing/parking brake off a wrecked almost new car and replaced it. If yours come apart easy ths job is cake.

https://youtu.be/Z9DaHQqUZv0

You can install stock length studs front and rear without removing the hubs, but you’ll need to remove the rear hubs if you’re using ARP’s extended length studs (I’m sorry, I don’t remember if the 65mm studs you’re using are the stock or extended length versions). I installed the stock length ARP units on all four corners of my car this way, and it’s a piece of cake. This post may give you a little more information:

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showt...ht=Wheel+Studs

Just so this helps others later after I'm done here. The stock size are 1.70-1.75" depending on what brand you use. The ARP "stock size" is 1.75"(no nipple) and they also have a 1.95"(nippled) which is really the same thread but just has an extra .2" of nipple.
I am using the 2.535"(nippled) ones which gives an extra 20mm total but minus the nipple about 15mm more threading to get a spacer in there. I'm only doing a 5mm spacer, possibly 10mm, but I'll still have enough room to use a closed end lug nut
which is why I am not using the longest 3" ARP stud that most people use. The no hub removal may possibly work still since these aren't 3" but that video where he just removed the bolts and left the axle bolt will work for sure to save
time since he was installing 3" in there.

I'll report back after the install tomorrow since 3" studs seem like overkill as the 2.535 will work for up to a 15mm spacer which would need extended studs. A 20mm spacer of course doesn't need the extended since they are bolt on to the stock stud
which makes me wonder why we aren't always using the 2.535 instead of the 3" ones to begin with if using extended studs.

Experiment failed, kind of. The ARP 2.535" stud will not fit a 5mm spacer and normal 1.4" closed ended stud. It bottoms out by like 1-2mm.
I had to order the Gorilla closed ended ones here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 which are 2.1".
Any open ended would work but I was keeping the end closed to keep out corrosion and also went with steel.
The gorilla were the only closed end steel ones that are long enough. It looks like they're threaded another 15mm inside with a 5mm spacer on.
This means with this Gorilla closed end lug nut I can go from no spacer all the way up to the 15mm with no issue with clearance and plenty of threads to grab.

Also measured stock stud and it's exactly 1.70".

Did you remove the bearing?

This worked to me

https://youtu.be/Z9DaHQqUZv0

I have replaced the rear studs now two times. The first time were 5mm extended, and did not need the rear hub removed.


The second time I replaced them with long rear studs that required removing the rear hub.


Removing the rear hub was easy. 6 bolts and one 32mm axel nut. I tied the caliper to the spring to keep it out the way. The whole process took just over an hour from start to finish.


You will need a nice tq wrench, 32mm socket, and some way to install the studs. I used a ball joint separator, though the "washer method" works ok.

I am only using them in the front but the Nismo 50mm studs work with stock lug nuts and a 10mm spacer and I can remove the spacer and my closed end PMU super 7's fit without bottoming.

https://frsport.com/search?q=Nismo+40222-RS035

You have 1.97" uhl with those so they're .2" more thread than stock studs but more than a half in shorter than the ones I put in.
With my aftermarket wheels with a 10mm spacer on stock studs, it's grabbing like 3 threads.
If I had an extra .2" I guess that might have got the 8 minimum full rotations.
I just figured get the extra half inch to make things easier but it turned into more trouble.
Only real bonus is I can do up to 15mm spacer now and/or still really get a lot of rotations to keep it all tight.

If you mean the whole hub assembly...No, but I'm pretty sure I won't have to watching the guy doing it they way he did on his WRX.
I stopped when I put the front passenger ones in and the nuts bottomed out and just left it all there til tomorrow when the longer ones come in.

These will either just squeeze in since they aren't the normal 3" ones everybody does or I'll try the slightly easier way. If there is a shortcut, I'm all about it.
Ended up buying a impact wrench from Harbor Freight, only $40 and it's corded. My Ridgid cordless one probably would have worked but more tools equals more fun!


It's crazy as the dealer wanted I think $700+ to do change these out. The fact we can do it in about an hour with no lift and thousands of dollars in pro tools
plus $130(or less not using ARP studs) in parts should make the ashamed of themselves.The really earned the stealership for that estimate.

Yep, I found that video after watching the first one I posted and that guy didn't even remove the parking brake stuff. I'm trying that tomorrow.



***Finished - Removing the 4 bolts for the hub assembly and leaving the 32mm axle nut worked easily with the 2.535" ARP studs. 3" would have been a super tight squeeze. I think in the WRX video above, they must have a little bit more room to wiggle it around as it seems like it there was a 2.75" stud, it would have barely squeezed and it didn't seem like there would be a room to get a 3" in there without taking out the hub assembly. At least on this car any way but maybe I just didn't wiggle it around enough. On the other wheel I realized I could back the two left side hub bolts and leave the right two just grabbing to make putting it all back together easier.

I just wanted to update this because I had a crack at this myself.
I cut the nipples off the 2.5 inch stud and I was able to wiggle it into the rear hub without being removed

I just did this today too, but I installed the ARP extended lug bolts, so I removed the parking brake and hub (4 bolts on the back). It probably took 25-30 minutes on one side and 15-20 minutes on the other. Really wasn't a big deal. There isn't much that can go wrong, and it was a simple assembly.

https://i.imgur.com/A8QGDg1.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/VDD3jTk.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/CHHxSVS.jpg

Frozen hub bearing
 

I've changed to the longer front lugs without issues. :thumbsup:
When attempting the rears I found an issue not apparent in the video above.
After removing the four hub bolts I was unable to pull the hub away from the upright. It seems the bearing is bonded in place, likely by rust.
Does anyone have a non-destructive technique to drive the bearing out?
Perhaps an air chisel from the back on the slightly loosened bolts might break it loose??? :iono: Not much room in there to swing a BFH.