Sound tube Amplification
 

A select few of us knew there was more to this than that..
After months of no dreams
and many daydreams
tweeking for weeks on end with no sleep in sight
through time tortourous test trials and analysis caculations feedback and
evaluations
countless clouds of loud found and allowed (much) later......
our savior is born
the FIRST and ONLY sound tube AMPLifier!!
SRT8 pipe for sound tube
in hopes that some other forces$$$$$$$$
can draw inspiration from this as a plausible placebo/performance item/area
where are the ELecTric tUrBos AT mann????
EASTER EGG yo
EVEN if there is no gain in performance!!
will somebody gimme a sizzle whistle for my KAZOOOO!!!!!!
I know you peoples can design wayyyyyyyy better sound tube/ performance parts
think about it,, one that rattles, one that rumbles,, a whistle etc
WhooooOOOshh sounds PHISSSSIHHSHSHSI
chugachaugacuhga
in the pants dynomamater approves.. maybe small gain???
most all cold air from AC vanishes with 2-3 pulls to redline
think of the oem sound tube like a cat for the intake
HATE the Smell of cat less headers
LOVE the buZZZ of VTAK
DONT want any loud exhaust
I wanted extra sound
without major modifications and risks
ANYTHING CAN HAPPEN
I AM NO TRD PRO not yet..
monitored (torqueapp)AFR Before and after, and noted that motor seems find desired AFR quicker
stock Ecu adjusts AFR accordingly and in pulls to redline, data logs are pretty much the same..
In short all we are doing is taking oem sound tube and making it a functional cabin intake.
　
Materials
Pilers
screwdriver
Air breather filter
(baby intake/ will filter air going into engine)
plastic or metal tube from any pen
(intake pipe)
3 inch piece of heater or vacuum hose bigger than 1 -1/4
( connects oem sound changer to intake pipe)
4 metal clamps- optional if you can secure it another way
( 2 small 2 next size up)
1-1/4 in. x 3/4 in. PVC Sch. 40 SPG x S Reducer Bushing
(this will connect to oem intake sound pipe)
1-1/4 in brass nipple
(this will connect to oem sound tube piping)
Gorilla tape or better
(to cover threads on brass nipple)
Zip ties
(to secure tube to ecu bracket)



　
http://i1156.photobucket.com/albums/...psgmkydeq8.jpghttp://i1156.photobucket.com/albums/...psgcx0iy48.jpg

http://i1156.photobucket.com/albums/...ps6tvoifh1.jpg
1. Start by removing oem sound tube. 2 10 mm nuts
2. Connect brass nipple and pvc reducer. Be CArefuLL
use gloves to screw them together them nipple threads cut.lol
3.Use Gorilla tape to cover remaining threads on nipple. intake str8 tube done
4. Connect both ends of your newly formed straight pipe tube. Use metal clamps and zip tie to tie larger clamp to the corner of Ecu Bracket
5.CRITICAL step.Look below the right side of battery. Use pliers to Remove oem sound changer.Pull out small piece of foam in oem sound changer. IMPORTANT!!!DOUBLE make sure you remove the small piece of foam located in the oem sound changer. this is the only component that can end up inside your engine.
6. Attach heater/vac hose to one end of oem sound changer. Secure with metal clamp.
7.Put pen tube in air breather. screw metal clamp tight.
8. Insert intake tube in oem sound tube hole
9.connect other end of intake tube to heater/vac hose. Secure ends with small metal clamps.
10. And Voila. The sound tube is much louder now. And your intake pulls filtered air from cabin.
say what you wanna
i like drama
DR86
Mine is madd loud and bassey cause of muffler delete.. will post another vid when I switch to stock muffler


[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dHnLziBTtQk[/ame]

Not quite sure what I think about this yet but I love your enthusiasm!!!:D

I just wanna ask: how drunk were you when you wrote this?

25+ whp guaranteed.