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Knock Knock? Expired Warranty
Good afternoon all,
Been a bit of a lurker on these forums for a couple years, and looking for some opinions. A few hundred clicks and a month after my car crossed the 100k / 5 year warranty mark I got the CEL / Traction control light issue that seems to be popping up in new and old cars. The ECM has since been replaced under the emissions warranty, however it didn't help and in the time since this first came up the motor seems to be making some new sounds. [ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nl5U1RX37ds[/ame] [ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tol1r2SPfA0[/ame] It has a chugging and a knock, but only when warm. When started first thing in the morning, it sounds fine. If this was a true rod knock I would expect it to be constant? The last time I had the toyota tech hook up the computer, he tried to adjust the vvti gears and found that they were not responding properly. Running down this path, the sound is similar to the noise featured here: [ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ErpHXIr4BmI[/ame] So to recap, my situation is, I'm just out of warranty, I am either having multiple issues or possibly just one, is this a true knock, spark plug issue (they are due for a change) or the vvti? Has anyone had luck running something similar through under warranty if it has just expired? If so, what did you say to get them to cover it? Thanks! |
so... whats your engine trouble code? Seems like you are skipping a bunch of steps and trying to diagnose a problem based on sound when the tools are there to be a better job...
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Unfortunately I didn't get the exact code from the mechanic, but it is coming up as a Crankshaft Position error
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This, get a code scanner and pull the codes first |
R.i.p.
Mine will be next i only got 52,000 miles but out of warranty |
P0018 - Crankshaft Position - Camshaft Position Correlation (Bank 2 Sensor A) was the original error code, the car is currently at the shop and I have requested an update on any new codes that might be popping up.
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I just went through the nightmare that is P0018 last summer, and I'm also fairly local to you by the looks of it (Ontario), so please don't hesitate to reach out to me if you have any questions or want some more details on what transpired with my case. I'd be happy to try and help however I can. Cheers and good luck! |
Thanks SLVRSRFR,
I read through your posts, good to see they covered a good majority of it. On the phone with the dealer last night, it sounds like I might get something similar, picking up 1 third the cost of the repair, though nothing formalized yet, they are opening a case with Toyota Canada. As of last night current codes getting thrown are P000B, P0014, P0024 |
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It could also be that my local dealer has treated me VERY well through-out my ownership, so the service manager there potentially "went to bat" for me. When I went into him and found out the bad news that I would need "the works" to fix the issue, and would be staring down the barrel of a $2700 repair bill, I just said "fuck it" and e-mailed Subaru Corporate. I figured I had nothing to lose. I'm sure you read all my posts and already know what happens next, so I won't type it all again, but I really didn't have to do too much myself besides plead my case to them and hope they would have some compassion. I honestly didn't know what to expect, all said and done. I was trying to assume that they WOULDN'T help me, so as not to get my hopes up. Once they opened the case, they requested my invoices for service performed (to ensure I had maintained the car properly and done my oil changes on time). Once they had received all my invoices from the dealer, and had researched and reviewed for a few days, they e-mailed me to offer to cover the cost of all parts, and I just had to pay labour at a discounted rate. I'm not sure if you have personally reached out to Toyota in regards to the issue, or if it has been your dealer that has been communicating with head office. If I were you, I would do what I did and take it upon yourself to at least reach out to Toyota Canada and plead with them, as this is basically what I did, and it sounds like you also have nothing to lose at this point. My dealer, as much as he has helped me in the past, had no more strings left to pull on this one, and was basically throwing his hands in the air, saying he couldn't do anything for me. That's when I took it upon my self to reach out to them. If I hadn't reached out, I would be $2000 poorer right now, so I'm glad I did. As with anything in life, if you don't ask, you don't get! Good luck, brother, and don't hesitate if there's any further advice I can provide. |
Hey man I'm having the same issue my warranty has expired and they wanna charge me 10k for a new engine and i only have 138k miles in that engine its a shame that i haven't even hit 150k and need a new engine already what a shame but I need you guys help what can I do? They said also that the oil control valve is poorly made on the early models and cause some issues link is below.
https://youtu.be/e7jg63RtWqo I need help!!!! They don't want to cover it https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...c0d4ec0383.jpg Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk |
With every business in the world trying to control cost right now. I am betting the out of warranty gestures that you could get some times are going to be non existent right now.
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Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk |
Sub 50k mile engines pop up all the time for around 3k$. This is an easier car to pull the engine.
If your spending 10k$ can get a fully built longblock. |
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