Beautiful car!

The engine blew during a pull from an aggressive turn. Considering a K-swap. I'll post some pictures here later:

https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=145040

The carnage:

More:

Repost from the other thread:

I talked with Harrop, and I should be able to replace the broken wiring harness and replace the water pipes. I should be getting a quote on those pieces soon. I've had some preemptive interest, but I should be posting up some parts for sale. The plan is to disassemble the rest by next week and prep the used parts for sale.

I will be selling the following:

-Harrop Supercharger kit
-ECUTEK dongle and cable (tune and ECU license is not transferable unless my ECU is purchased I think...I might not need it...will have to look into this)
-85mm and 75mm pulleys and belts
-DT flex-fuel kit
-DT 4 bar map sensor
-DW 700cc injectors
-Ace 150 headers/overpipe combo wrapped in DEI titanium header wrap and intact O2 sensors

I should also have a bunch of stuff that should be sellable from the motor that wasn't destroyed or contaminated with oil shavings like I won't be selling the Forester XT oil cooler, but I can't guarantee all the shavings could be cleaned out of it, so it isn't worth the risk to a potential buyer, and I wouldn't sell something even if someone wanted to take the risk.

-Fumoto oil drain valve (should be cleanable)
-AC compressor
-Alternator
-Some engine components like I'm sure some valve covers, oil pan or timing covers might be cleanable and free of damage. We will see. I'm sure someone might need a random part or an extra oil pan to weld up for an oil return line on a turbo kit or something.
-Verus forged clutch fork (shouldn't be needed with the hydraulic conversion in the Kpower kit)
-Verus billet pivot (same as above)
-Clutch slave cylinder (same as above)

I got a hoist and engine stand. I pulled the transmission and driveshaft today. I’ll be pulling out the engine tomorrow and mounting it. I might pull it apart too if I have time. I’m doing this all from a one car garage that is pretty packed, so it is slow going.

I believe I will have a few days next week to spruce up the parts that I will be selling, but I don’t anticipate anything going on the market until mid May.

Engine coming out. Clutch doesn’t look too worn for being three years old at much more power than it is rated (Exedy Stage 1).

Ok, what came first? The chicken or the egg? Here are some more pics...

Second cylinder threw the rod, and the roller rockers seem to be missing. Digging further I found the valves bent open. Then I found the number 2 piston rings peeking from the top? Could this have been the grinding sound I heard? I thought it was a spinnibg bearing, but maybe this was it. As you guys can see, the piston is destroyed from the bottom. I still need to pull apart the block, but here is what could have happened:

—My car wasn’t apart of the spring recall, but say something happened and the rockers were thrown, I feel like the spring would have closed the valves, and the rocker would ping-pong around the head, but it wouldn’t cause a problem.

—I drive aggressive, but the car wasn’t being driven too aggressive with the gas, more with the cornering. It had only been running for five to ten minutes from my garage that was around 55-65 degrees is a best guess, as I was heading to work. I wasn’t driving it long enough for ring expansion to happen from heat. Maybe it is possible there was some type of detonation event that cause the ring to overheat and pop out, which is why I heard a pop/bang and then grinding. Then the piston got stuck and the rod ripped itself from the piston, which caused it to spin freely, ripping through the motor and breaking.

—The other possibility is the rod snapped, and when the piston came down, it was struck by the rod, which broke the piston and caused it to impact the valves and twist in the sleeve, causing the rings to grind before the rod sent itself through the block.

Maybe the block will reveal more.

A few more notes, the heads seem good enough. There was one valve guide that broke, but I think that is replaceable. I saved the heads in case anyone wants a cheap head as part of a rebuild. The oil pan is actually fine. It just needs cleaning, but it could be useful for someone needing an oil return welded on. I have the timing chain and guides intact. Everything else was tossed in the recycling because there was no chance of salvaging it because the oil was contaminated with shavings, so surfaces were scratched. The timing chain cover has the oil pump, so I tossed that too.

I get that the glue is probably better than a paper gasket, but screw that stuff.classically, it was partially obstructing holes and sticking near or on moving parts.

I also have the alternator, ac compressor, pulleys, intake manifold, engine mounts, etc, so if you are interested in any parts then let me know. I already was digging in the dumpster for something I tossed that was broke, but someone wanted, so be quick because anything that doesn’t sell in a month is getting recycled. I already tossed the engine parts I won’t sell. I have like five to ten pounds in bolts lol It is always good to have spares. I’ll also be selling an engine hoist, leveler and stand once the swap is over, so keep that in mind.

Another note: I believe the K24 kit will have a hydraulic TOB, so I won’t need the Verus forged clutch fork or the billet pivot, so that will be going on the market. The clutch kit is usable with the new aluminum flywheel/adapter from Kpower.

Should I go NA or just go turbo right away to save overall? I don’t know.

Here are the last of the pictures. The crank journals and bearings looked decent, but clearly were infected post destruction from contaminated oil, which is why there are small pits. The rod journals didn’t look terrible, even on number two cylinder, but the rod bearings on the number two cylinder were trashed, as you could see in the comparison. None of the other cylinders had any bent valves, worn journals, worn bearings, bent rods or anything. Number two was so annihilated that it is hard to tell what happened.

The damage:

—Two valves were bent.
—The piston rings were bent up.
—The top of the piston only had two minor impact marks.
—The piston skirt and bottom was destroyed.
—The rod was snapped and missing much of the middle.
—The cylinder was peppered with pits/strikes.
—The block was destroyed and tore through.
—Rod bearings on #2 were scratched up and pancaked, but they were in position and freely moving, not overlapping and not seized.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Yb-_930DZ8

Here are some other pictures. The rod clearly bent laterally. My guess is the rod bent then caused grinding on the bearing and harmonic pressure that tore apart the bottom of the piston. That made the piston slam into the valve, and the rod nunchucked in the block and tore it apart. More pics are in the thread I posted above.

Here is my turbo K24 swap build thread. I'll mostly be updating that, so refer to it for pics and information:

https://www.ft86club.com/forums/show...80#post3435080

I bought a Drift Armor crash beam. This should open the area up for the FMIC. I also bought a smaller windshield washer fluid reservoir, so I have space to run the IC piping. That thing is ridiculously huge.

It is necessary to make room for the FMIC, so on top of getting the drift bar, I changed out the windshield fluid reservoir for a smaller one. I opted to retrofit the stock reservoir components to a smaller container than to buy something new.

This coolant reservoir came off a Honda Accord. I opened up the top hole and drilled one in the bottom. I mounted the old rubber ring to the top and the motor to the bottom. I cut the fill spout to fit. I made some brackets out of some aluminum bar stock. I used two of the stock bolt holes to mount the new reservoir. I made a bracket for the fill spout to locate it off to the side, out of the way of the future intercooler piping.

More…

My Harrop supercharger is listed for sale:

https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=145975

EDIT: SOLD

K24 Turbo swap has been done. See sig for swap build, but I’ll add some pics. Overall, I am happy with the setup, but as surprising as it is to say after having owned several boosted cars including two MKIV Supras, I think my Harrop SC converted me from team turbo to team supercharger. I use to like turbo spool and blowoff valve noises, and I liked turbos causing a surge in torque, but now I realize how much I prefer the throttle response of a supercharger and NA feel, and what’s more, there is still excellent exhaust noise. They say there is no replacement for displacement, and maybe I need to get into a V8 and see if that will convert me. In the end, weight and revs matter, so a small displacement supercharged engine might be better, especially because there isn’t any high displacement small vehicles, except for a swapped 86/Miata, Jannarelly and Lotus Exige. The Emira could be a future buy.

Besides that, my Braille battery is finally on its last leg. I bought a Shorai 4.5lb battery with 550 CCA, and it installed well and fires up real strong. I don’t think I will need a trickle charger like I needed with the Braille battery, but I’ll have to see. The other mod I never mentioned was swapping out the old custom badges for new badges. I got the Japanese rising sun to match my steering wheel emblem. I encased that one in resin. The fronts came bare from Pete on Instagram. I sanded them thinner and added a recession for the carbon fiber backing like before. Then I painted and encased them in resin like the previous set. Honda H for the new motor and T3Q for the Toyota rear.

This Car Fucks.

I made a feeler ad. I'm still on the fence about keeping the car, making it a future track toy or selling it now. The wife would prefer I sell it to prioritize a house/family, but I should see my salary double after nursing school, so I will have the means to do both. If I get a decent offer then I guess I am willing to part with it. If not then I will keep things going, so I don't take too much of a loss.

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/cto/7552408814.html

It has been a while since I updated here. Most of my updates are power updates in my K24 Turbo Build thread. This is what I installed:

--Return fuel system with DW dual fuel module
--Radium Boost Reference FPR
--Radium fuel filter
--Gen 2 transmission
--Exedy Stage 2 clutch
--Custom shortened stock driveshaft
--Redid the front pipe and dump tube for better assembly, ground/chassis clearance
--Replaced a broken starter
--Added a coolant hose to the system for better warmups and cooling
--Replaced a wastegate, which had an exhaust leak because I didn't install a fire ring

Went back to the dyno and made more power down low with the changes and exhaust leak fix, while having more overhead for the injectors, but unknowingly had a boost leak, thinking it was slipped clutch issue with the South Bend clutch, so I changed it out for a Exedy clutch and found the boost loss, which was popping at 12 psi. I will be going back to the dyno once this new clutch is broken in. In the meantime, here is an overlay showing the extra low end torque and smoother curve of the improved setup, even though there may have been some boost leak.

I installed some Eibach front and rear sway bars today after waiting over two months for them to arrive. I installed them on the softest settings. They are much beefier than the stock sway bars, and it was immediately apparent that they tightened up the car on cornering. Everyone has their own philosophy on suspension, and I have mine. Stiff suspension isn't very kind on the back, and soft suspension just doesn't feel great for a sports car. Having some vertical travel with compliant struts or coilovers seems nicest on the back, while having stiffer sway bars seems to provide the handling characteristics in cornering better. These sway bars work well with Eibach's lower kit, and it really tightened up body rolll.

South Bend Stage 3 Endurance Clutch for sale
https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=152672

Exedy Stage 1 Clutch for sale
https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=152477

Gen 1 Transmission for sale
https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=152476

OEM fuel basket and DW300c fuel pump for sale
https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=152478

Kpower K24 Aluminum Driveshaft for sale
https://www.ft86club.com/forums/show...01#post3570801

Yo @Irace86.2.0! I recently did an RR Racing BBK, Sport Performance front and rear. Funny enough I didn't see the ~60 page thread on this site until after I installed it :bonk:

Really crazy to see the progress of you going from a pretty normal-ish 86 with some basic upgrades to this thing!!

I was curious whether you kept running the CT 1521's on yours, and how they've done squeal-wise, long term? It looks like you did hard bed-in of your 1521's and they didn't suffer too much as a result.

I had gathered enough info prior to ordering the kits that I knew I wanted the 1521s for street use for the noise. Install went great, though I knew I was going to have to re-bleed. Filling up calipers with fluid for the first time is a bubbly affair. Pedal has been at least as good as stock though, so maybe there isn't any air in there. Anyhow..

I must have pushed the pads a little too hard too soon with spirited driving in first 20 miles or so, as I got some serious squeal in the first few days. I understood these pads are a no bed-in pad, didn't realize how long they needed to be babied until giving them some heat. Squeal has reduced a lot in the ~75 miles of easier driving since but I will check all the pads when I do that re-bleed and sand them all if there is any obvious glazing.

I ordered a set of BP-20s for track days, of which I plan to do few. I'll install them a week or so before, then bed them in the night before. I'm sure they won't care about 1521 material on the rotor.. but going the other way around :( not looking forward to that! Plan for that is to run them on the street for a week or so after the track day to wear off the transfer film (that will suck) and then reinstall the 1521s. If they scream, take the rotors off and sand them.

The 1521's squeal when hot for me. The biggest difference over the BP20s is the 1521s don't have low speed squeal with normal driving where the BP20s seem to have squeal almost all the time at low pressure and slow speeds. The 1521s also seem to take longer to get hot and are faster to cool down over the BP20s related to squeal, as if they have a high threshold for when they squeal.

Good to know. Yeah my 1521s don't make any noise until a few harder stops seem to get some heat into them. Any noise recently was quite tolerable. I won't mind if it stays that way but it's hard to trust it haha

Have you swapped back and forth between the 1521 and BP20 much? For track days etc? Any process you have to that?

Thanks a lot

No track days or swapping. I'm on the 1521s all the time. I think if I was going to swap pads then I would just suck it up and buy a set of rotors with the pads to change both out instead of mixing materials and trying to bed the pads all the time. That might be overkill for a few days a year, but for a half dozen or more, it might be better to maximize performance and minimize noise on the daily setup.

I actually ordered a set of dedicated plain rotors today. Cheap peace of mind. I pulled the rotors last night to paint the unswept portion of the front discs and decided to sand all the pads and rotors because it was pretty clear stuff was glazed. It'll be worth not having to make that mess every time I go to the track, even if it is only 1-2 times per year.