I received a birthday gift from my wife yesterday--the Kenwood DRV-N520 Dash Cam. Installing the camera was fairly straight forward. It plugs into the dash cam AV plug, and it plugs into the back of the headunit. There are three wires that I 'T' soldered into the Kenwood harness: red to red, black to black, yellow to yellow; it is obvious which ones.

The Kenwood Dash Cam integrates seamlessly with the Kenwood headunit. I can adjust all the settings from the headunit, as well as, watch and delete recorded videos. There are other features like lane departure warning, collision warning and delayed departure warnings that can be individually turned on and off and work pretty well.

In your interior you have the speaker pads with red stitching and black rings. Where did you find the black rings? Everywhere I see the speaker pads sold, it comes with silver rings.

I got my black 2013 BRZ Limited in 2015, also for 20k. She’s come a long way. You have one hell of a build there.

Thanks for noticing. Few do. It is all about the details.

I painted them myself. I wanted them to match the rest of my interior. I think I did primer, black, clear and baked them in the oven. It wasn't too hard and worth the effort.

Video of old updates. I need to make a new one with the sound system:

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=06SpwaDTHa4[/ame]

For the noico sound deadening, you bought 3 sets of the 36 sq ft off amazon?

Yes, I used about 2.25-2.5 boxes. Someone could probably get by with two boxes.

Hello! Just wondering how you hooked up the anti-flicker module to these headlights. I bought the same kit, just a little confused about the module. Love the build!

Are you following the install writeup?

https://www.theretrofitsource.com/co...55baadea1a4006

Page 7 has the "Internally-Wired Headlights with HD Relay" diagram with a part that is labeled: "If equipped". That is the anti-flicker module. Connect that between the bulb harness and the "OEM Input", and then attach the ground to the OEM ground point that is on the side of the frame nearest the front and passenger side of the engine.

Ahhh okay! Wasn't aware that they had a writeup on their site. Thank you for this!!

I bought a used set of Ace 150 headers and some DEI Titanium wrap. I'll be doing that and updating the Delicious Tune soon. I have a MIG welder, but I bought a TIG welder. I wanted to add some more welds to the outside of the flanges, and it was an excuse to finally get a TIG welder. I'm thinking about making some custom heat shields for the header too. We will see.

https://i.imgur.com/qDhhFuf.jpg

I purchased a set of Carbotech 1521 brake pads. The BP10’s are ok, but they squeal bad at low speeds at partial pressure. The wife is really annoyed, but even I am over the noise too. It is pretty loud. If I’m next to a wall, I hear how truly loud they are. Hopefully these work.

I took on another project too and bought the Edelbrock coolant surge tank that I want to adapt to the Harrop kit. I feel like the system would be good if it had a way to deal with air pressure.

Unfortunately Airgas only had 1/8th 308/308L feed wire, but I had stuff for mild steel at 1/8th, so I got it. They had other sizes, but I would have had to buy 5lbs, and I wasn't interested in that. Even then, they didn't have 1/16th or smaller.

In the end, I decided to just see how things went. This was my first TIG project, so I had low expectations. I used 1/16th tungsten. I tried to used some MIG 308, but it was too small for the job, or my skillset wasn't up to the challenge of using that thin of wire. It would just ball up and drop in the field. I could have backed off the heat, but I was losing my puddle. I switched to the 1/8th, but it was too big. At best, I was overheating the metal and clumping up the field. I would have increased the amps because the flange could take it, but the pipe wouldn't be able to, even if I did a 'M' walk over the flange and less on the pipe. I was mostly filling a void seen below verses looking for full penetration. I was able to get a decent run of gold beads on two lines of practice lap welds on some heavier gauge steel prior to this attempt, but this pipe wasn't as happy. I sanded and did some Acetone, but I was getting a few reactions on top of not having enough heat to melt the filler rod. Oh well.

https://i.imgur.com/MUkcNr1.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/N7Zdb6G.jpg

After hours of messing around, I was running out of time, and I needed to get the project done. I pulled out the MIG welder and just ran some lines around the pipes then moved on to wrapping the headers.

https://i.imgur.com/dwPaQs8.jpg

I have to say that my MIG welds are better than my non-existent TIG welds and skills, as novice as the MIG skills are, but I really enjoyed the torch on the TIG welder than the splatter and sizzle of the MIG puddle. I probably shouldn't have picked welding thin walled pipe to thick gauge stainless steel as a first time project, but I like to dive in the deep end sometimes.

Here are some comparison pics:

https://i.imgur.com/ZdfEQgG.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/gNCqEQX.jpg

For reference, the cat looked good on the dirty in side and on the cleaner out side. No signs of melting or early wear:

https://i.imgur.com/H2TiBli.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/dYeLRkv.jpg

Here they are wrapped in DEI Titanium wrap. I was thinking of use the stock heat shields to wrap the headers by cutting the stock shields, making brackets, and bla bla bla, but in the end, I had the weekend to get this done, and I was losing time.

https://i.imgur.com/q1gwxiu.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/dCm1N6D.jpg

I have flashed a new DT. Car feels like a pudd. Hopefully something isn't wrong, and it is just a conservative first tune. I hate the revision process. It can take forever.

I haven't installed the new pads yet. I'm going to wait to do that in a few weeks when I have some time off.

I added the Edelbrock coolant reservoir to my setup. I found that even though the fill plugs were topped off when I checked, there was still low coolant levels as I circulated the pump during this install. After adding a few cups worth of coolant, all the hoses felt much firmer. I'm sure there is still some air in the system, but considering the reservoir almost ran dry multiple times, I have to believe that this will be much better. I'm surprised it was this bad considering how many times I purged the system and topped off the fill plugs. Then again, I have custom coolant lines. By the temperature of the hoses, this setup seems to be circulating coolant much better.

The bracket and reservoir were solid pieces. I did file off the Edelbrock logo. My only complaint is the lid is the type where you over tighten it, and it jumps a thread and needs retightening, which leaves someone always feeling like it needs to be tighter. If it had a stronger locking cap and if it didn't purge air to the atmosphere, and instead, had a line I could 'T' into the existing coolant overflow reservoir then that would seem best. Overall, I am happy with the addition.

https://i.imgur.com/5FrVOsQ.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/zgLErT4.jpg

Is it high enough to bleed the system there now?

Something i wanted to ask because i havent found it anywhere. I ordered the dash cluster trim piece from ortizcustompods. They offer for the customer to send in their own trim piece, and wanting to do this. I am trying to remove it. But there is this leather flap that is connected to it from the steering wheel. How did you remove this piece without ruining it?

Normally the reservoir needs to be higher than everything to bleed, but the supercharger ports do that job from the supercharger to the pump. The problem is air was trapped in horizontal sections that can’t bleed because the water pump might act as a stopping/vacuum point. The original routing of the hoses has every hose in a more vertical orientation, but mine is routed like the Edelbrock kit.

When I added the reservoir, I was able to add a significant amount of coolant, even though the top ports on the supercharger was topped off.

I’m pretty sure it unclips. I honestly can’t remember though. I would have to look or Google it.

I finally got around to installing the Carbotech 1521s.

I decided to just use my angle grinder with a 60 grit sanding flap disc to quickly sweep across the rotors as I spun them on my stool with the backrest removed. Then I used 80 grit sandpaper wrapped around a flat block of wood to add a cross hatch pattern tangential to the center drum, going in each direction. Saved me a $100 instead of getting them spun, and it really didn't look like there was much grooving that would require them to be spun. In fact, the BP10's had probably 75%+ of the material left on them, which I will keep for any future track days. Obviously, I haven't been using the brake pads that much when canyon carving, or rather, I haven't been abusing them or heating them up much.

I then took the car out to bed the brakes. I did 4 sets of medium braking from 45-15 then 8-10 sets of hard braking from 60-15. Through it all, the brakes never squealed, and after, I drove around for another half an hour with light to medium braking, and I never once heard a squeal. The wife was with me, and she was very happy.

I haven't had them long enough to know if they will ever squeal. I'll have to see after the car gets washed or after a rain or in different weather conditions, but my guess is they will be near quiet to completely quiet. Again, I haven't had them long enough to make a full review, but my initial impressions are that they don't seem to have as strong of a bite as the BP10s, nor do they feel as hard, but that could change as they wear in more fully. They seem perfect for the street and are easy to modulate, but feel sporty. I'm curious how they will hold up to street and canyon use. Overall, I am very happy thus far.

I had some uneven tire wear, which I documented here:

https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=141590

I took the car in for the alignment. Here are the results. I am ordering some Michelin Pilot 4S, so I have them ready. I also bought some ARP extended wheel studs and some FactionFab 5mm spacers (x2), so I can widen the front by 5-10mm. There has always been a little tuck in the front and a little poke in the rear, so I am hoping the spacers will even out the front with the rear.

https://i.imgur.com/4476wx1.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/N7Zdb6G.jpg


This is funny as shit, all the lecturing you gave me about tig welding.
This would be a difficult of 1 on a scale of 0-10.
It is seriously one of the easiest welds to make and make look good.

I would assume you now know what I was talking about stuff warping while your trying to make the perfect cosmetic weld, considering you welded the flanges without them being bolted down.

I thought about telling you why they welded the inside of the flange and not the outside of it when you mentioned you was going to weld the outside but I decided I would let you get some hands on experience.

The flange doesn't warp near as much when you weld the inside.

I think I should go edit all of threads that you gave me shit on and post your example of your skills.

This defiantly put a smile to my face. :bellyroll::bellyroll::bellyroll:

Lol

I never ridiculed what you were capable of. I ridiculed how lazy you were with your welds. There is a difference between skill and laziness. I also explained that, but you seem to have your ego hurt.

I also said this was the first time I used a TIG welder ever, and the local welding shop and Home Depot only had thick gauge welding rod, so there was a conflict of using that with the heat required from thin gauge steel.

Also, the guy I bought the used welds off of had already had a crack on one of Ace's welds, which he got repaired, but I wanted to reinforce it.

Again, check the ego man. All I originally said in your original comment was that suggesting to others that they should weld straight through a ceramic coating without sanding it off is a bad idea. I'm sorry your ego couldn't take the truth, but again, it didn't surprise me because I recalled that you took short cuts with your welds when you are capable of better welds.

Let me know if you need your ego stroked some more, and I'll try to come up with some more novice welds for you to compare to. In the meantime, your lazy welds look about as bad as my novice welds, so :clap:

This was not what I was talking about when I said get some hands on.

Lazy?
My whole car is DIY.
There is zero parts on my k24 swap that was bought for a K24 swap. ZERO. It is all hand made by me. Engine was also built and tuned by me using the stock brz ecu.

:bellyroll::bellyroll::bellyroll::bellyroll::belly roll::bellyroll:

You know what I am referring to. You welded through the paint on your oil pan without removing the paint. That definitely was a lazy moment. In fact, you said so yourself. :thumbsup:

https://i.gifer.com/fyiI.gif

Its usually easier to burn through paint than it is to weld thinned out medal from sanding the paint off, when its as thin as an oil pan.

https://images.homedepot-static.com/...4a-64_1000.jpg

https://shop.harborfreight.com/media...2/62454_W3.jpg

:thumbsup:

Stripper might work if you don't wind up creating a poisonous gas when you weld it. The media blaster might work also but it may warp it. Not sure if walnuts would cut the coated pan.

You have very little hands on, until you have your own experiences you need to lay off, you have no idea what your talking about.
You do have some experience with warped flanges now.

You could tell him to stay in his own lane, but judging by his youtube videos passing cars over double yellow lines and on the shoulders, I'd say he probably can't do that very well either lol

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4t1z6IelruI&t=391s

You talking about poisonous gases? What do you think happens when you weld through paint or coatings?

https://media.tenor.com/images/af8e1...af8a/tenor.gif

I used paint stripper before. It works well. Just needs good prep. I have bead blasted parts too. Actually fun.

You should see me in my car if you think that was bad ;)

On a separate note, I got the Michelin Pilot Sport 4S tires in and the ARP studs and wheel spacers. I think I am going to canyon, hoon and donut the rest of the treads off the old tires before throwing these on, but I plan on installing the spacers and studs tomorrow. I'll try to get some before and after shots.

You two are still bitching at each other?

No, I figured I would post that up so others would understand the dangers of chemicals and welding. I use to use brake cleaner to clean stuff before welding it then I ran across that article a few years ago. Pretty serious stuff.

Here is the problem: I wanted the large tire in the rear look, and I wanted a deeper concave rim in the rear than the front, which means a different offset. There was limited sizes, so in the end the rear had slight poke and the front had slight tuck. If I would have gone square then I would have had large poke in the front.

Rear poke:

https://i.imgur.com/vzdxAlO.jpg

Front tuck:

https://i.imgur.com/CyESVGq.jpg


Here is the fix:

https://i.imgur.com/oZsNob5.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/A8QGDg1.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/uwfYZI0.jpg


The fronts were pretty straight forward. The rears required the parking brakes and the hub to be removed, so they each took an extra 10-15 minutes, but they weren't bad at all:

https://i.imgur.com/VDD3jTk.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/CHHxSVS.jpg


Poke is now equal (and minor). If I do some camber sometime in the future then they will be perfectly flush or tucked.

https://i.imgur.com/bycxq7e.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/YOqxIgy.jpg

Tires are ready and waiting for when I need them. I got them on Tirerack. Free shipping to my door. Came in like two to three days. $400 cheaper than getting them at Les Schwab, which is why I wanted to get them now and have them ready just in case. Michelin Pilot Sport 4S:

https://i.imgur.com/tEMssFC.jpg

I’m running a 75mm pulley now (1 bar boost), and I finally put on the new tires last week. The combination of more grip and more power proved to be a big bump. These Michelin PS4s are magical. I’m surprised my Exedy Stage 1 clutch is still holding the power. I’m hoping the clutch will last until the next gen 86 comes out. I’m hoping the new trans will be beefed up and swap-able. We will see how long it lasts. I was happy to see Harrop came through with the CARB EO on the kit.

Looks good!