Heh, that's my car above. Fun to see it reappear on the internet from time to time.

I agree with your decision. The tS mesh works best with the JDM DRLs, if you won't have those, I'd stick with the oem grills.

It's a good pic. That car was clean. I'm sure the Porsche is just as clean.


BTW, I will be going with the vertical DRL's. I bought them. It should look like this guy's car, but without the hole and without the fog light--just black, but with horizontal lines that integrate with the horizontal lines below the bumper mustache.


https://i.imgur.com/06KcouM.jpg

Great shot of the vertical DRLs with smoked wide makers. Wonder who's car that is? :D

I purchased a new STI OEM style MY17+ front splitter, and I have set up the new bumper to be painted. I need to work on repainted/powder coating my emblems, but things are progressing. I had some time, so I made an update video with a cheesy intro. I had some requests from the few subscribers to make another update.

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E52LGWuS00U[/ame]

Picking up the painted bumper on Friday from the shop, and I'll be getting the rest of the bumper parts from Subaru. I have 3M clear vinyl to protect the Vland headlights and vertical DRLs.

I also have been working on my emblems. I got these custom badges made by Pete on Instagram a while back. I decided to go with a different color scheme. The red vinyl is fading, and the paint was chipping. I figured I could do a better paint job, but I have considered powder coating them too. In the end, I decided to repaint them myself.

I sanded about 3mm off the bottom of the badges, so they sit more flush with the car. I will be putting a recessed plate on the back covered in black carbon fiber vinyl, and I will be painted the emblems a solid gunmetal grey, except for the top of the Harrop 'H', which will be getting a red treatment. Finally, I will be embedding the emblem in clear epoxy resin, so the finish is preserved, and so the emblems are easy to clean and look stock. I will cover the emblems with vinyl to double down on UV protection, so they don't get yellow, even though the resin will have it. I'll be using the resin on the steering wheel badge too.

https://i.imgur.com/4uDMQ6J.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/ODuRZZ8.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/QX0ukqO.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Y5hieKB.jpg

Ok, I got the headlights and bumper installed. Overall, I am happy. It looks great, and it really updates the look of the car.

I had some hiccups with the headlights. I ended up running a halogen H7 bulb instead of the OEM bulbs, which is temporary until I get some aftermarket HIDs. I will probably get some H7/HID conversion kit with 6.5k bulbs. In the end, I could retrofit the OEM ballasts and bulbs, but then that would make my used headlights a hard to impossible sell.

The OLM vertical DRLs look awesome. I wired them into the harness for the DD Always-On module, but they aren't working like that setup. They work, and I believe they are staying on when the headlights go on, but the boomerangs aren't staying on, and the DRL'S don't dim, but for now, I am happy, and I will revisit the wiring when I have the energy.

I'll update pics of the whole setup when I wash the car, and when I finish my emblems.

It is hard to tell, but I removed a lot of thickness from the emblems, so they will fit more flush to the car. I would say around 3mm or more, but I didn't stop there. I also removed more material to make a recess where the backing plate and adhesive will sit, so again, those parts of the emblem won't make the emblem protrude so much.

I have sanded to 400grit, and then I will primer then paint the emblems a gunmetal color then bake then paint the H red then bake. Then I may sand and polish if there is orange peal, but regardless, I then will be doing an epoxy resin casting/coating. Depending on how that turns out, I may need to sand and polish the resin to a high shine.

https://i.imgur.com/7dC5tkB.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/uuEWJHg.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/4dHCDR9.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/XRjs5H5.jpg

Interested in this. How has the rep lip kit been as far as durability and fitment etc? I like the STI stuff but $1,000+ for a lip kit is just way too much. The other side skirts look pretty sick too. Nice build by the way. Simple yet aggressive and overall pretty clean

Thanks.

I wouldn't try to suggest that the quality is the same as OEM, but I really can't justify the cost of OEM parts. The BaysonR stuff had pretty good fitment. I bought a different brand for convenience for the MY17+ rep lip, and the fit wasn't as good, but I used a heat gun to soften the urethane to help it into position, and it worked out.

I probably won't be switching to those other side skirts anytime soon. They look good, but I don't feel like it is worth swapping them out, especially because I want the top part painted. Maybe if I do a wrap or more painting of other things then I'll get them, and I didn't now because BaysonR said they won't get another set until late September, and I already have my bumper painted.

Here is a teaser. Crappy phone pic at dusk.

https://i.imgur.com/IxaNwVW.jpg

After sanding the badges, I laid down some coats of primer--a few thin coats and a few heavy coats. I baked them in the oven then let them cure overnight. I sanded them down the next day then I painted them the gunmetal gray--again, I did a few thin coats and a few heavy. Then I hand painted the red 'H', and I let that sit for thirty minutes before laying down a few light layers of clear, followed by a few heavier coats. Then I baked them in the oven then let them cure for a few days.

I wrapped some aluminum backing in carbon fiber vinyl then glued the pieces to the back. I left them overnight to dry with some weights on the back of the emblems, so that they were seated well against the recess. It would be tempting to apply them to the car now, but the road debris will quickly destroy them, so I will be using resin to seal them. I may or may not need to apply multiple layers of the resin, and/or sand/polish the resin. Also, I may or may not have lots of bubbles and/or destroy the badges in the process. This is my first time working with resin, so I'm crossing my fingers. Here are some pics:

https://i.imgur.com/eSYcH6I.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/46tPwnu.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Qkvh0AK.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/DOmVgBI.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/pEv88rI.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/1we9tsR.jpg

Wouldn't it make sense to test the resin on something else first? Just mock up a small cup made out of card board that's a similar shape, seal the edges with tape, and then "get the hang of it" by filling that and seeing what the results are? Rinse/repeat until you figure out how to get it perfect. Looks like you have plenty of resin to test with.

So far, your work looks fantastic, it'd be a shame to destroy them at this point.

Good advice, but I’m all about winging it lol

So I wasn’t crazy about the carbon fiber vinyl. It looks good in the photos and in real life, but I almost decided to paint the backing D4S to match the car. It is less rice and the symbol would pop more. Well, I got my wish. The resin reacted with the vinyl. I don’t know if it melted it or chemically reacted with it; my suspicion is that the raised surface of the vinyl reflects light to create the carbon fiber effect and that the resin filled in the space, so nothing is reflecting. In any case, the backing looks black lol

There is only minor imperfections in the resin. In general, it is bubble free and perfect. The resin went thin on the top, so I could do a second layer, but I kinda like how it recesses in between the symbols, so I probably won’t sand and re-pour. I don’t think I’ll need to polish it either. We will see. I’ll post pics soon.

Sand the resin flat to a 400-600 finish and then have a 2k clear sprayed over it. Otherwise the hobby resin will breakdown and yellow rather quickly without uv protection.

Good idea. I considered clearing or using clear 3M film over the resin, but I'm going to hold off. ArtResin has built in UV blockers and stabilizers. While they say don't keep it in direct sunlight because it isn't ideal, the resin should hold up well. My car is garaged at night and also when I am at work, so it sees very little direct sunlight.

This was from an accelerated UV exposure test:

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/07...g?v=1476289846
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/07...g?v=1476289890

Here are some photos in arguably terrible lighting:

https://i.imgur.com/hvSkQmd.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/4TqyDsA.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/nPIoJFV.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/lPK9vgi.jpg

Also, I bought some HIDs from TheRetrofitSouce for the headlights. D2H 6500k bulbs with 35w ballasts along with the anti-flicker connector. I'll be doing a comparison between the halogens and the HIDs once they are installed.

I got the HIDs installed today. The D2H bulbs were made for these headlights. They fit perfect in the housing, especially compared to the H7 bulbs. I still need to do some adjustments with the beam pattern, but here are some install pics:

https://i.imgur.com/nviCGbG.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/ayJ6t3O.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/3ppy2Dc.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Gxpmy9y.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/vG5Tuhw.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/dTlLJH3.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/spro7uF.jpg

The OEM BRZ headlights have the ballasts for the D4S bulbs attached to the bottom of the headlights, so I used 3M tape to mount the ballasts in the same spot, and for good measure, I screwed them into the headlights. Then I mounted the ignitors to the side of the headlights too using 3M tape.

I riveted the relay to the side of the engine bay, and I mounted the box for the anti-flicker module on the side of the fuse box, as seen below.

Here is a before and after. A close up pic isn't ideal to show the difference because the HID bulb will have more penetration through the darkness than the halogen, but it is all I got. The halogen bulb was a Sylvania Silverstar Ultras, which was suppose to be "white", but was clearly yellow next to the boomerangs and DRLs. The HID's are much whiter.

Apparently these bulbs require some break in time before the color matures, so I'm going to give it some time and then I'll get some night shots.

https://i.imgur.com/WWKBPQe.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/hCKzx7f.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/harWhTF.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/tXaQIgN.jpg

I wasn’t feeling the flat top of the rear of the car. I decided to get the TRD authentic spoiler. I wanted a subtle lip.

Still waiting on the FT86SF steering wheel. It has been a few months. Apparently the backordered item will be filled whenever the manufacturer can catch up on all the orders. Ugh.

The headlights are great, yet my left bulb powers up intermittently. I swapped sides, and the problem seems to stick with the bulb, so I’ll reach out to TRS to see if I can get a replacement, but overall I am satisfied with the 6500k Mishimoto kit.

Just a note that the emblems look great, and the resin hasn’t yellowed at all. I’m very satisfied with how they turned out. I would have done a darker gunmetal and recessed the rear emblem in the backing a little more, but overall I am very satisfied.

I received my steering wheel, and attempted an install, but I failed in so many ways, even though I have taken the steering wheel off before. For one thing, I didn't disconnect the negative terminal good enough, and it connected during the process, which caused the slip and abs light to come on. Second, I forgot to loosen the nut without removing it completely, so when I pulled on the steering wheel, it came off in a jerk, and when it did, the clock spring got pulled in the process. The clock spring top came off and unwound. A few clips broke. Ugh.

I was able to wind the band of wires inside the clock spring and close the top. The ABS and slip light is on. The cruise control doesn't work, and the car is basically without any nannies. Honestly, the situation is pretty nice like doing the pedal dance. I'm surprised more people don't force this situation, but alas, I need my traction control and ABS in some situations, and I like the cruise control, so I'll need to remedy this situation.

I think the clock spring is good enough. I think the problem is that I need to do a zero calibration.

I looked into downloading Techstream, but I found that there is a manual method of applying paper clips to the 13/TC and 4/CG plugs of the OBD2/DLC3 port.

http://repairguide.autozone.com/znet...3f802020a5.gif

I will try this Thursday on my next day off.

For the price, I am happy with the steering wheel. What I got was a flat bottom steering wheel wrapped in genuine leather. It is sporty, and I like how it looks.

In an ideal world, the bottom would be a little less flat/wide/aggressive, and the top could be a little thicker, while not having the finger impressions. The top is smaller than the bottom. Compared to the stock wheel, the wheel is similar in diameter or slightly less. In the pictures, I have a $65 Amazon cheap/faux leather cover, so it is pretty thick looking, but the OEM thickness is slightly smaller than the wheel.

https://i.imgur.com/YPWsfgD.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/vHptxMO.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/GVzc7VV.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/P2kTnt7.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/1uBnTiN.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/TGCNwyP.jpg

Thats a nice wheel. Sounds adventurous but this is how we learn sometimes.

There are some videos online though. You checked before diving into removing the steering wheel?

Curious to hear how to perform the zero calibration.

Keep up the modding.

I will try the paperclip method if I have to, but I have been unable to confirm the pins on our cars. Looking at the wiring diagram, the CG is pin 4 and the TC is pin 13, but I can't find pin TS, which is how to do the zero point calibration (ZPC). From what I got online, it may be 12 or 14 or something else, but I don't want to attempt this without knowing for sure.

I decided to buy a $35 Techstream cable and software from eBay, which will hopefully work, and hopefully, I can also use it to modify other parameters.

I also think my steering wheel isn't perfectly lined up. I need to drive more to determine if it is truly off. I don't think adjusting it at the teeth of the wheel will work. I believe even OEM wheels need alignment, so I might need to get under the car and adjust the toe of the wheels, so the car is in alignment then do the ZPC.

Today I got to a few things.

I readjusted my steering wheel one tooth counter clockwise, which seemed to align it straight. Then I used the Techstream and cable I got on eBay to clear the code that was tripping the Slip and ABS lights and then I performed a zero point calibration. After restarting the car the lights went away, and the cruise control and VSC Sport features worked again. I'll have to see in the ensuing days if the light stays off.

I also installed the genuine TRD wing. I removed the old wing by removing the four bolts and unclipping the five fasteners. Three of the bolts broke in the nuts, and I had to drill them out after I removed the wing. Whatever Locktite is on there was enough to prevent them from coming out, even with being careful. I cleaned the trunk then used a random action polisher to do a two stage polish to remove the dirt and oxidation on the lid. Then I measured for the holes using the templates, and I drilled the two required holes. Then

https://i.imgur.com/aRu5cM0.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/1zpW8Ok.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/mdHukMW.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/WJxZ3lG.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/yIZ0esp.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/ROHj8vz.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/gZFGFAd.jpg

Here is a shot of the beam pattern and the intensity of the HIDs, plus a shot of the DRLs.


https://i.imgur.com/paJijFh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/dLRTd0e.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/VbJtpNt.jpg

A few night shots:

https://i.imgur.com/xHekEVZ.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/ai4u61j.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/OSlYgI7.jpg

So the ABS and Slip light came on when I did a full right turn. I wasn't really sure what the issue was, except that the Techstream said the Steering Angle Sensor (SAS) was at fault. This was odd because the Clock Spring (CS) was the thing that pulled out and needed to be wound back up, but I guess both were damaged. I didn't really want to spend $240 on the SAS and $175 on the CS, so I took a chance on a used combo for less than half that price. Fortunately, I was able to clear the code and zero everything without having the light come on when driving or turning the wheel to lockout. It was an expensive mistake, but I'm glad to have the ABS, CC, TRAC, VSC working again, especially now that it is raining. Truth be told, driving without them was fun too, but it is better to be safe.

Also, the steering wheel is just slightly off still, so I will need to adjust the steering rack under the car to get it perfect. It is around five degrees or so. Not enough to be bad, but enough to bug my OCD.

My wife is such a good sport. I always say I'm done, but then I think of more upgrades I want.

I finally said I am done with the stock sound system. I ended up buying the Kenwood DDX919WS. I think it'll be best for all the features I want. It wasn't the cheapest, but I think it'll be worth the price. What sold me was the following features:

--Flush fit
--Wireless AppleCarplay
--Capacitive touchscreen
--HD pixel density
--Sound quality

Other perks

--Should be plug and play or close to it
--Ability to adjust light color to look OEM
--CD player
--Ability to control/view multiple cameras
--Gesture controls
--Steering wheel controls
--Tunability
--Tilt functions
--Etc

I also ordered the OEM Audio Plus Reference 500Q kit. I'll need to get some Dynamat and maybe some other things like cameras. We will see. This is a big dent in the wallet, but I feel like it will be very much worth it based on all the reviews.

See this quote from this thread:

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=138165

Like I said, I found a $40 Amazon camera with great reviews, and it is 12V, so it'll work with this head unit, and I will likely buy or be gifted the Kenwood dash cam.

I bought Noico 80mil sound deadening material with supplies. I figured I might as well do this right while the car is torn apart. There are some rattles in the back of the car that drive me crazy, so I am hoping to sort those out too. They aren't always there, so it isn't exactly easy to identify the problem.

I installed the head unit. I haven't installed the rear camera because I am waiting until I tear the car apart to install the Noico and the stereo system. Until then, I connected the rear camera input to the head unit and fed it through the back, so I can just run the wire later, and I wired in the reverse trigger wire to an existing wire using this guide, and it worked to activate the rear camera on the head unit when I put the car in reverse:

https://www.autoharnesshouse.com/19867_add.html

https://www.autoharnesshouse.com/1/p...w/7549tut8.jpg

The head unit is definitely awesome. It is so much more responsive, and there is a significant improvement in sound quality. It connects instantly wirelessly to my phone initiating AppleCarPlay without a need to push a button or plug my phone in, which is exactly what I wanted. Definitely worth the price. If the head unit has improved sound so well, I am eager to see what the new sound system will do.

https://www.theretrofitsource.com/hi...C47335%2C48753

It was essentially plug n play. The headlights don’t need to be disassembled like putting in an oven to remove the lens. It was all plug n play. HD relay for H7 and anti-flicker module with the D2H bulbs at 6500k with 35w ballasts.

Taking off the bumper is the biggest time consumer. I mounted the ballasts n ignitors to the headlights and ran the power and ground to the battery and ground. I riveted the relay to a hole I made in the body. Pretty simple.

Last weekend I was able to remove all the paneling and rear seats, and I applied the Noico to the rear over the two days.

The wife was a big help yesterday. I removed the front seats (E10 Torx socket required) and the carpet and front trim. She tackled the wheel wells and remaining small areas while I insulated the doors then we both did a side of the front floorboards. I'll post some pics of course.

The plan today is to finish insulating the last area, to install the OEM Audio Reference 500Q system and to finish wiring up my rear view camera. We ran out of daylight, so I have the rear deck remaining to insulate, which requires good visibility and care because I don't want to ding or scratch the rear windshield tint. The audio system should install fairly quickly then I just need to test it and reinstall all the interior carpet, seats and trim. I should be done by Monday.

Today, I finished applying the Noico to the roof, the rear deck lid and a few spots on the B-pillar. I bought three boxes and used two and a quarter. I'm sure someone could get away with using just two boxes, but it was nice not having to worry about it and getting to cover as much as I could.

https://i.imgur.com/kTxvtLT.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/QU62Vby.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/jOPPZoY.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/LMROE6O.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/RfNn5MC.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/n0dLSBW.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/eG91j12.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/fSEGUcN.jpg


I hooked up the system and made sure everything powered up correctly, which it did. I can definitely tell the system will be an improvement, but I won't know exactly how it will sound until everything is back together. I was able to reinstall everything from the rear seats forward. Tomorrow I will finish securing the wiring for the audio system and mount the gain control. I'm not thrilled about the bright blue LED on the gain control. I might have to cover or paint it or something. I will need to wire up the reverse camera too then reinstall everything from the rear seats back.

https://i.imgur.com/NPBpsDL.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/H90oVbn.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/5Kkutbx.jpg



I'll post pics of the Kenwood system tomorrow too. Here is my new boot screen:

https://i.imgur.com/A4UHobl.png

Justin,

The car continues to come along! I installed the OEM+ system a year ago and love it. I put electrical tape over the gain control light - that tiny LED is blindingly bright! I've thought about changing the head unit: if I did, I would go with the same unit as you or a 2017+ BRZ unit. I'm curious, did you get an Australian-spec Kenwood?

The sound deadening material is a great add-on that I thought about doing when I had things torn apart to install the OEM+ system, but I skipped it. I don't have any rattles (knock on wood), but it would be nice to cut down on road noise. I doubt if I'll ever do it as I don't want to tear things apart like I did for the OEM+ install and judging from your photos, installing the Noico requires a lot more stripping down than needed for the OEM+ system. .

Have you tried the wireless Apple CarPlay yet with the new head unit? If so, how does it function?

Thanks, I'll see Trevor at training later this week if he is able to make it.

-Daniel AKA MugsBRZ

Loving the system! Sound is a big improvement. In order to keep the factory rubber mat, I cut it down, so the sub could fit. I also finished wiring up the rear view camera, which was simple: the red power wire I attached to the green wire next to the rear hatch lock, which goes to the reverse lights, and I attached the black ground to a ground location at the same sight. The trigger wire I mentioned above, and the camera attaches to the head unit. The red wire coming off the head unit input isn't used because the head unit already has a trigger wire.

https://i.imgur.com/uDDJIzb.jpg

@MugsBRZ ...My solution for the light was to improvise. I found a rubber nipple used to cover a vacuum port. I cut it in half then glued it over the light. The cover completely eliminates the blue light, except for a hint of light that peaks through a crack, which is good because it gives me an idea of where the gain knob is in the dark. I don't have a pic of the rubber cover, but I mounted my knob here:

https://i.imgur.com/VAYzITt.jpg


I mounted it there because it was cheap plastic--easily replaceable if I need to replace it. I used 3M tape to mount it then screwed it in. I drilled a hole in the back for the wire and wrapped the grey wire in black electrical tape, so has a clean look.

The sound deadening was a lot of work--A LOT! But, the effect is profound. On a scale of things:

--There is the raw sound of removing all the panels on the car.
--There is the sound of installing all the panels.
--There is the sound of installing all the panels with the addition of sound deadening.
--Then there is my wife's Audi Q5.

The car is much closer to my wife's Q5. I bet if it had sound deadening on the firewall then it would be super close. There is still engine noise, but there is minimal road noise, and there isn't the sound of rocks and debris hitting the wheel wells and stuff. The sound is much more isolated too. I can compare the sound of the system on road and at a stop, and they are pretty close, so I know the sound deadening is doing a good job.

On a side note: while I love a light-weight, raw, sports car, I often find the car is too light for the power on the street and too visceral at times. With that said, the extra weight of a passenger is enough to annoy me, but this has added weight low and to the rear, so the car feels more planted and more solid on the road because it feels less hollow and frail like the difference between an unopened can and an empty tin can.

The head unit is awesome. I would highly recommend it. The fitment is spot on (see below), but I did have to enlarge the screw holes a little, so I could align the system perfectly. The second it boots up it automatically connects to Apple Carplay wirelessly and without the need to push anything. The screen, the capacitive touch, the sound, the interface, etc are all awesome. Definitely worth the premium price. It did come from Malaysia, so probably Aus spec or in that time zone for DVDs, which I won't be playing in a car, but the radio works great.

I went online to Kenwood's website and download an update. I saw a review from an installer who said the wire going to the speed sensor that allows CarPlay to understand that you are moving or something is no longer required after the update, so I did that immediately. The number changed from 1.5.0009.4300 to 1.6.0009.4300. Here is a pic of the old number for reference:

https://i.imgur.com/TzGYtR4.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/ogQVvWg.jpg

THAT @$$ :thumbup:

Wow, that turned out awesome! It's great to hear that the Noico has made such a great difference; it's annoying hearing all the little pebbles in the wheel wells and the tire noise. You have me thinking about it, but ugh, your photos illustrate how much work it will be. Would I have to remove the OEM+ system or just all the seats and panels and carpeting and headliner?

It's also fantastic to hear the head unit powers up quickly and is functioning so well for you. Would you mind posting the link or name of the retailer you purchased the head unit and dash trim from?

Great location for the gain control knob. I used velcro adhesive so I wouldn't have to drill into any plastic.

Another great project on the IRACE 86!

Yes, the Noico has made a huge difference. I don't hear my loud, squeaky, brake pads anymore. I don't hear road noise, so much so, that I am forgetting how bad it really was. You would have to disconnect the sub of course and slide the wiring harness back through the hole that is cut into the rear fender cover, which is fairly easy and straight forward, but no, you wouldn't need to remove the OEM Audio wires to lay the sound deadening. It is a lot of work, but it has definitely transformed the car up a class.

I used Amazon (for security) via Fasmoto, but you can buy direct from Fasmoto too. They are out of Malaysia. The dash trim is JPM Coachworks, who is no longer in business.

I swapped the bulbs from 6500k to 5500k. When looking at the headlights, they look more white and similar to the boomerangs and DRLs now. The 6500k bulbs had a bluish hue, which looked good too, but the output was a little too blue for me--a little too rice. There is a touch of purple to the top of the lights. These 5500k bulbs are more white with a hint of blue, and they are noticeably brighter too, but not by a huge margin.

Were you able to install the 80mil Noico without a roller/tool? Is it any easier than say, Dynamat?

Sorry I missed this question.

I used a roller tool. It was Noico's roller, which was like $10. It is necessary to used a roller tool. I used the round end of the wood handle on a few areas too where the surface was concave.