I love the car! Enjoy the Harrop SC, it looks right at home in the engine bay.

Update: Good news is the squeak/squeal is gone. I did the water spray test on the belts, and it went away. That is a relief. I sent DT my log. Hopefully I hear back from them today. I have to install the pans under the car then I can drive her.

Beautiful interior, I'd been looking for a gauge pod like the cluster pod you have!

Another update:

I installed the lower trays and cleaned the garage (it needed it bad).

I got a revised tune from DT with a new set of instructions for logs to perform under variable conditions. I did those and sent them off. I am hoping to get the next revision and set of instructions tomorrow.

I drove to wash the car, yet didn't go into boost as instructed. Even without doing that the car feels really smooth, and I can tell there is a monster under that pedal waiting to come out of its cage, haha.

Finally, I want to give a shoutout to @johan for selling me his kit, helping me with the nuances of the install and just for being a stand up seller and guy. Also, a thanks to @sales@delicioustuning.com for working on my tune and for having a quick turn around time and communication. And to my wife, who is always supportive of my hobbies, even the expensive ones.

SO glad things are going smoothly for you. Can't wait to see more pix of the engine bay too. I'd love to see how you actually routed the piping. :popcorn::burnrubber:

From the radiator, cold coolant leaves the bottom, it travels up coolant hoses until it gets to a pipe that runs on the passenger side of the motor. Cold coolant travels that then enters the pump and is ejected perpendicular to its original flow to the back of the motor along hoses where it diverts to either side of the supercharger manifold. The coolant makes it way to the front of the manifold along pipes before circling via hoses into the heat exchangers. Hot coolant leaves the manifold and travels the same route back to the top of the radiator.

This is a shot of the top cool pipe that has a curve towards the access area behind the headlight. I used the screw on the alternator as a mounting point. You can also see the exit of the pump and the return:

https://i.imgur.com/BBt70T9.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/XhqpBr1.jpg

It gets a little messy on the back side, but that is out of view:

https://i.imgur.com/xGxBu15.jpg

The pipes sit close to the runners of the manifold. They emerge or enter medially to the manifold runners and laterally to the alternator and AC compressor. I wrapped the hot pipe in a sheath of hose for insulation:

https://i.imgur.com/NGVTYqr.jpg

There is a bung on the back of the manifold on the passenger side. I removed that, which required the use of a 3/16 sized Allen wrench. The bung was tapered, so I assumed it was an American pipe thread fitting or National Pipe Thread (NPT), which made sense because a 4.5 hex and a 5.0 hex (metric) wouldn't work.

I found a 1/8 bung to 1/8 NPT brass fitting at the hardware store. I installed the fitting into the manifold with Locktite. I removed the boost connection that was T'ing into the brake boost line and set up the hose to the fitting, and tested the car. I am happy to report that the boost gauge is reading boost finally.

Awwwwwwwww my clutch went boooom! lol

I was data logging, and the clutch went. I only have 63k miles on the car, but I am not gonna lie--I abuse the clutch. I brake with the clutch/engine a lot. I was running the 85mm pulley for like a week then the 95mm pulley. The gears were getting harder to engage, so I thought it might be going, but it seemed to not be slipping, which I have felt/saw rpms fly sky high on boosted cars when the clutch slipped.

Back in the day I had what I thought was a noise consistent with what people were saying was a bad throw out bearing. Some said it needed replacing. Some said the clutch rod or something in the engine bay can get wet/rusty/dry/whatever that makes for the squeakiness. Regardless, the noise came after a hard rain then went away on its own after a week, but nevertheless, I'm sure the throw out bearing is toast.

Most said the stock clutch would be fine at base boost levels, so I was hoping the clutch would last a little longer than this. Looks like I'll be spending more time in the garage lol

It was bound to happen...

https://i.imgur.com/hN5etdt.png

I assume you got the verus fork w/TOB?

The fork is on the order list, as is the pivot. I’ll get the TOB locally. I’m not too convinced it is necessary.

If it's never been replaced, you definitely should. Subaru revised the design for a reason. There's even a TSB: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=117440

I’m aware. I posted a thread in the engines section about it, and I got a similar link. The TSB said that they essentially increased the heat tolerance of the oil while maintaining the lubrication factor because it is possible the TOB would fail from drivers resting their foot on the pedal. If that was really the case then that oil would never be good for any manual car, so why did it ever exist? Seems more like they put a dot on the old TOB and just replaced the item.

I know I know. Conspiracy theories are wack.

I also heard the stock fork is bad on the TOB, so I’m curious if that is a cause of failure. I may roll the dice. Worst case scenario is I have to replace the TOB in another 63k miles, which for me is like ten years of driving.

I removed the transmission today. It took about seven hours. The TOB was toast--literally. The bearing backing was separated from the rest, the bearing was empty of oil, and it was burnt. Seemed like it was burnt plastic.

https://i.imgur.com/nZvyd0u.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/txD1LGt.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/P2XwfKi.jpg

The clutch, flywheel and pressure plate looked to be in good condition. Nothing was chipped or broken. The clutch plate had some decent thickness remaining. Good enough to use, but I'm upgrading while I'm there of course.

https://i.imgur.com/KIsQoAu.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/SCqfM9U.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/KpC8Kyy.jpg

The flywheel will get resurfaced and a new pilot bearing. A new fork and pivot.

https://i.imgur.com/WO3QnfC.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Yj2Czk3.jpg

The transmission snout wasn't chewed up, as much as, it was worn down. I don't know what a new transmission snout looks like. Maybe it already comes with a step or decreasing diameter, but I feel like this might be worth replacing. At minimum, it needs some cleaning with some high grit sand paper and polishing.

https://i.imgur.com/1reUKxl.jpg

I emailed Exedy last night and got this email this morning :thumbsup:

Today I’ll be buying the snout and MY17 TOB.

I received my snout today and swapped it out.

https://i.imgur.com/6MrSNXo.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/wPgWK8I.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/qTC5AMT.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/e21nK0n.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/cgiTSGS.jpg

The Verus forged fork may not be as pretty or light as the billet version, but this thing is stout like cast iron solid stout.

https://i.imgur.com/WtGVIY6.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/luCiEuj.jpg

The flywheel got resurfaced, and I received the clutch kit too. I have the new (white dot) TOB and some lubricant for the install.

The Motul 300 was on backorder, and I searched all over the town for a supplier, but no one carried it, so I decided to order some AMSOIL over going with the Redline that was in stores. The AMSOIL is also rated 5 for the diff and 3 for the tranny, which seems better than the 4-5 rating on the Motul 300. Yes, the tranny can have 3-4, so that works, but I think the dedicated ratings AMSOIL provides might be better. We will see how it goes. I get that Monday, so I will install the tranny Sunday and fill with fluids Monday then start the clutch break in process.

I installed the flywheel, clutch, transmission, driveshaft, exhaust, shifter, etc. I got the interior reassembled. I drained the diff. Tomorrow I will get the oil delivered then I just have to fill the trans and diff then put back on the pans.

https://i.imgur.com/yHH4zTS.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/oET9YA7.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/0OQtAeM.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/EILmRFJ.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/GwpDtZV.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/8c8a1qJ.jpg

I gave a few presses of the clutch pedal. The pedal feel was very smooth and even. The stronger pressure plate made for a slight increase in pedal feel, but it was hardly different, and with the Verus forged fork, engagement was so even and solid that the extra effort wasn't very noticeable.

The Exedy Stage 1 pressure plate had noticeably thicker finger plates. I would say the gauge of the metal was around 75-100% thicker. I don't know if the internal spring was stiffer. I don't think the clutch plate was different than OEM; it looked identical. There might have been stronger springs or a slight change to the organic disc, but I wouldn't be surprised if they were identical to the old. Considering my stock one at 63k had barely any wear, I would assume this one will last pretty long. Once I get it on the road, I will give a review, although, the recommend break in period is 750 miles, so it will be a while before I can get put it through the full rpms.

I received the AMSOIL and finished the install today. I took the car for a drive and everything seems normal. I'm intensionally dropping the clutch and not riding it at all, and I am not going over 3.5k rpms or getting on it for the next 500-750 miles.

My initial impressions is that the AMSOIL has made the shifting butter smooth. Also, the forged clutch fork has made for a smooth engagement. I can tell the pressure plate is stronger, but the improvement in the fork has almost made the clutch lighter; it is hard to explain. The new TOB doesn't make a sound and moves smoothly on the shaft. I will update this review in a few thousand miles.

I purchased some AMSOIL 5w30 and their oil filter. I’ll be doing a change when it comes in.

I’m still doing revisions with DT. The latest tunes really improved throttle response, tip-in behavior, low speed and low throttle response, and a little bit on power. I’m hoping to sort the tuning and fueling, so I can go from the 95mm pulley to the 85mm pulley.

Today I purched the DW700 injectors and a DW300c fuel pump. At 85mm the 11-12 psi is maxing out my port injectors.Delicious Tuning had an F1 engineer review the direct injector utilization for their tunes, and they feel like the DIs are at an optimal level, even if they could support more duty that other tuners may utilize.

Zach also recommended that I check my DI seals, but I don’t have any major symptoms of seals problems like rough idle, popping, misfires, etc. but I will be doing a check eventually.

Did you do any bottom end work? Are you going to do Flex Fuel?

I just got my car back from the speed shop after the Harrop installation. I'm going Flex, so I already did the injectors/pump.

Currently on a 95mm pulley, though we planned for a 90, have to question the installer on that.

Flex is not fully set up yet as their were some issues with sensors.

Enjoying the Harrop on my 2018 BRZ tS so far, but have only had the opportunity to drive it twice.

@firekat

I’m not planning Flex Fuel at this time, nor do I plan or have built the block. The closest location is 40 minutes away, but I may do it in the future for track days only. 11-12psi is plenty for the streets, but maybe for the track it would be nice, yet I doubt the rods would survive long. I’d even consider the 95mm pulley with E85 for the track over 91oct and the 85mm pulley with a stock block, so there is knock resistance, but not too much power.

What pump n injectors did you do? Who did the tune?

Enjoy that kit!

Just another update: I have installed the 700cc injectors and had a few revisions done by Zach at DT. I haven’t installed the pump yet, but it is on the list. The pump is more insurance and if I go e85 ever. The car is on the 85mm pulley which gives me almost 13psi at redline. The car feels like a blast to drive.

My review of FI with the Harrop kit is the car feels awesome and anybody on the fence should just do it. The only drawback is the extra front end weight, and it is noticeable. Even with the Braille battery and relocating the water pump more midline, the car is still noticeably heavier, which has changed cornering balance and confidence, but overall the change isn’t enough to offset the gains in corner exit speed and transitional acceleration.

I concur on your observations. I can drive around the weight increase, a bit different technique than what I used previously. I am planning on doing a couple more mods to address the weight increase. Mostly it will be going with a 5# battery installation. That installation I am designing should not have any impact on being able to be a daily driver and not require a battery tender. Might go with a tower brace as the structure of the front end of this car seems to be willowy. The car does feel more solid with the additional weight. Previously the car would feel a bit floaty on bumpy roads, especially at higher speeds. Not so much now. I consider it a detriment and a benefit - simultaneously.

I am also running a Jackson Racing Dual radiator and AOS for reliability. Don't know exactly how much that added to the weight, but I would not think it would be that much. Figured that would help to deal with the hot summers we have in the Bay Area, and keep the induction system cleaner.

Will be finishing up the Flex Fuel installation later in the week.

Drive Safe!

@firekat

Nice. I’ll probably do the JRDR too. It’s on the list.

I’m debating the tower brace. I’d like to stiffen the front, but I don’t want to add more weight. The extra weight seems to make the front feel like there is more oversteer with a lighter rear end. I almost want to add weight to the rear. I might do a custom sound box or something. I want it light, but balanced would be better too. Maybe I’ll do an exhaust manifold someday or something.

———————

Ps Update: I installed the fuel pump. Pretty simple process and everything is working perfectly.

I had some problems with a rough idle that would fluctuate up and down from 500 to 1500, and it would seem like it was going to die. Considering it was recommended that I change the direct injector seals, I figured the seals could be the problem, and I decided to pull the SC. When I did get it off, I found that the check valve I bought had snapped on the PCV line. It was a redundant part, but essentially the PCV was venting to atmosphere, and the line going into the SC was just vented to air. This could have been the cause of the rough idle, but I don't know. Regardless, I trudged ahead to the injector seals.

I noticed a lot of dirt around the injectors, which is not too surprising considering the miles, so that will be something to clean up tomorrow.

Here are some pics of the injectors. I didn't have any seals that were missing, torn or destroyed, but they had a lot of carbon buildup, and there was carbon buildup on the heads. The plan is to clean them all up, replace all the seals then cross my fingers that the problem isn't something else with the idle:

https://i.imgur.com/zA24DKz.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/6B0kuNx.jpg

Here are the pics of the different injectors. Like I said, carbon buildup, and there is some signs that there may have been blow-by past the seals. Note that most of the dirt and debris on the injectors was from when they were pulled and not prior:


https://i.imgur.com/hiiWXGA.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/5O1pImC.jpg
-------------------------
https://i.imgur.com/pFyLAuy.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/rQfCKC7.jpg
-------------------------
https://i.imgur.com/tpZ0auN.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/lqOpY87.jpg
-------------------------
https://i.imgur.com/uDHcYwT.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/cku9OjY.jpg

Thanks to the help of my beautiful wife, we were able to finish the project today, and we got the car running.

She did an excellent job cleaning around the injector ports:

https://i.imgur.com/k4eguLO.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/S6RIvbh.jpg

I cleaned the injectors then we cleaned the insides by attaching them to a battery and running cleaner through them while we pulsed them (as seen on Youtube). This verified the spray pattern was good and the nozzles were clean. The slit can be seen now:

https://i.imgur.com/4GeCx1i.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/yWZeMOa.jpg

I used a custom setup to get the seals on the injectors based on some items I had in the garage (as seen on Youtube). Seemed to work perfectly:

https://i.imgur.com/H2aYiv6.jpg

The car fired up and idled perfectly, which was mostly due to fixing that PCV venting to atmosphere on the manifold side, but also due to the injectors. I drove the car, and not only was it smoother, but the tip in response was much better. Before, anything under 4k+/- and in higher gears would sometimes want to bog a little. Now it has great tip in behavior 2k and up in any gear, which I attribute to the seals being fixed and the injectors cleaned.

Update:

I am enjoying the boost. The kit is very impressive. The only thing that I have had to modify or consider when driving besides the power is my throttle input for when the actuator/bypass opens/closes. You can literally just hang out at that input threshold and have the flap go back and forth from open to closed and have the car jerk around in the process. The solution is to use more gas or less gas.

The other big news is I decided to buy DT Flex Fuel system. I've been driving past E85 stations on my commute to school, so it is possible for me to access it now. I'm still hoping we will get a station closer to my house in the future. The closest one right now is in Napa, which is like 40 miles away.

I’ll get some install pics later, but I wanted to say that I installed the Flex Fuel kit, and today was my first day on corn oil, and boy oh boy is it awesome. The tune is butter smooth and the power delivery is awesome! The torque curve seems so solid at all rpms and predictable and strong. Definitely happy with the kit. It even felt better on 91. I’d definitely recommend the kit if you have access to E85.

Yup, like I say, I am getting an alcohol addiction.

C U @ the Napa Station!

Love your thread. Your car is so clean! Keep up the good work

I got some parts for the holidays and for my birthday. Nothing crazy exciting for you guys to see.

--Weathertech floor mats. I modified the OEM footrest to work with the driver's mat. I didn't really care for how it covers the foot rest. Pics and a more thorough tutorial will follow.

-Blitz Strut tower bar. Mostly for some engine bling. It is backordered, so I don't have it yet.

-Toguard rear view mirror camera. In order to mount this better I ordered the JDM bezel-less mirror (I'm not really utilizing my Homelink mirror...I may sell it).

I'll get some pictures up. I'm in school and working full time, so unfortunately I don't have the time to do updates as often.

For the install of the driver's mat, I removed the panel covering the fuse box and engine hood release, and then I removed a body plug, so I could pull up the carpet. The foot rest is glued to the carpet, and there are two press plugs holding it to the bracket. I just had to work it back and forth until the plugs popped free then I used a chisel/knife to separate and pry the pedal from the carpet. After it was free I installed the carpet, fuse panel, body plug, etc., and then I installed the mat. I lined up the hole and drilled a hole through the mat for the lower plug. So the pedal would lay flat, I attached some hard, thin foam I had in the garage, which had adhesive on one side; this was applied to the top of the pedal and matched the thickness of the Weathertech mat. Then I pressed on the pedal with the plugs. Worked perfect and is solid. Looks better too. I don't plan to removed the mats, so this was a good option for me.

https://i.imgur.com/JDoch82.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/j6rOIAk.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/f2C4jQa.jpg

I replaced my Homelink mirror (that I don't use) with the smaller edgeless mirror, which works better with the dash mirror.

https://i.imgur.com/ucFL9b0.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/v3JqGT4.jpg

I installed the Toguard Rear View Mirror Cam. I still need to install the back up camera, but here are some pics. It looks good and works perfect. It auto records in 1080p, and does pictures in 4k. It has a touch screen with an integrated rear/backup camera option.

https://i.imgur.com/ALDd4g6.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/2PEXYX3.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/nEWYiE0.jpg

I bought six 5-gallon gas cans to store E85. They all fit very snuggly in the trunk like they were made for it. In May I will no longer be commuting to Vacaville twice a week, so the closest E85 will be in Napa, 35 miles away. This should give me enough gas to last three months.


I also bought some bushings, the Whiteline Support Outrigger Inserts and the Positive Traction Kit. These have great reviews and seem to be a great bang for the buck. When I get them installed I'll post some pics and a review. I'm hoping to improve some feel in the rear end under transitions.

No pics, as there really wasn't much bling to show.

I installed the Whiteline parts today and took the car out for a ride. Immediately when backing the car out of my garage I could tell a difference; it just felt solid. The whole rear end felt tight, but not stiff like a suspension thing; more like there was no more slop in the system.

Before, as I would engage the gas the whole drivetrain seemed to flex to absorb the slop then move. This seemed to be compounded by the supercharger, which added sensitivity to the throttle and torque to twist the system. When the car was NA this was less of a problem because I could mash the gas often with no real recourse that I was going to lose traction or go too fast, but with the power of the supercharger the car would sometimes jerk back and forth under light throttle inputs. I believe this to be the subframe and differential twisting causing an undulation sensation, but now it just feels solid and smooth. I really had to alter my driving style for around town driving, but this made a solid difference.

I'm hoping I'll see improvements in traction, but it is too soon to tell. My initial feeling is that there was better traction and power transfer to the tires/ground. I'll need more time to truly tell, but I would say that this was a great $100 spent, and I wish I had done it sooner.

I've been considering some upgrades:

--They are on backorder, but I was interested in swapping my wrapped steering wheel with the FT86Speedfactory leather wrapped wheel. My wrap isn't bad, but the material just isn't up to par, and I want a different shape/look.

--I am considering a front bumper swap for the MY17+ bumper. I want to get the OLM vertical DRLs, VLand headlights, and some smoked fog lights. I am debating on smoking out the ones I have or upgrading to OLM fog lights. Ideally, I would like something that blends into the black bumper, but that lights up yellow when the time comes for needing fog lights. I'm still sorting out what I will need for parts for the full swap and where to get the bumper painted.

I bought the VLand headlights.


I am now considering just forgoing having fog lights. I really don't need them, and they are just creating clutter. My car was the primary car for trips, but the wife has a Q5 3.0T now, so that replaces mine. I only used the fog lights twice in four years, and it wasn't because using them was necessary, but just helpful.


I'll either get the mesh look or the stock look. I don't know which one I like more. The stock look has the lines of the grill continuing to the fog light area. See pictures below:


http://www.ft86club.com/forums/attac...1&d=1519439997


https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EWUpjEaQC...baru-BRZ-4.jpg

I was also thinking of replacing the side skirts and rear spats from the STI replicas to these, along with the STI MY17+ front lip.


https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/00...g?v=1539988323


https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/00...g?v=1540500474

For continuity of the grill to the fog bezels, I think I have decided to get the standard ones and not the mesh JDM style.


I also purchased the FT86Speedfactory leather steering wheel. It is backordered, so I will have to wait. I also purchased the OLM vertical DRLs.