Transmission Mtec cross thread
 

Yes yes yes. I thought I was careful taking the 27mm mtec sprng housing out but it ended up creating a cross thread at the start when trying to thread it back in. Don’t think I want to try and re tap it myself and will take it to my local subi shop this week. I did seal up the hole with some nice string tape. But is ok to drive to get to work and such? I am able to shift into all gears just have no tension on it when it’s in neutral but seems to function. Has anyone do a retap on it without lowering the transmission?? Thanks group

I am not sure you would have enough space to rethread it with the transmission on the car. Next time you try to put this bolt back in hand thread it at first, it really helps if you remove the thread locker from the threads.

removing thread locker is a top tip. the problem I have sometimes is when there's thread locker in the bolt hole. I dropped the rear subframe and thought I was crossthreading one of the bolts until I just rammed it in out of frustration. after a few turns it got way easier right up until it was all the way in. that was annoying

I only used hand to try and put it back on. Just would not catch. Taking it to a shop to see if they can do it easier with a lift. After 8 hours under the car doing about 5 projects. I'm done with it. My wrists and hands have to recover from all the scrapes and scratches from the mid pipe. But for moneys sake I hope is is just some thread locker stuck in it. It seemed easy to remove it when it did come out. So hope that's it.

You should be able to look at the threads and tell if it stripped.

The bolt itself is perfectly fine. It just will not go more then a half turn into the bolt hole. I guess before I take it in I’ll try to use a fine wire brush and try to clean away the hole and is there anything that will clean or eat away at the thread locker?

Yeah, that will do it. The bolt has to go in at a slight angle, it will for sure hand thread in if you get it right.

Well tried to clean the threads but just could not get it to bite into the bolt hole. Just going to let a shop fix it.

I used a wire brush on the hole. I had started to feel a cross thread forming so I backed the bolt out took a good look into the hole and saw 2 little grains of thread locker left along with the start of a cross thread at the 6 o clock position in the thread hole.

I went to town with a spinning wire brush. Spin in the direction you would spin the bolt to remove it from the hole... Lefty Loosey!!

The wire brush got the last of the thread locker out and smoothed out the small kink in thread that would have become a cross threading situation.

Hope that helps.

Also I have a 2017 too. I believe i remember reading on here the 2017 may have a thread locker that is harder to remove than the earlier years. Acetone (pure from a UC chem lab), paint thinner (Hexane in pure form from a chem lab) and (toluene in pure form from a chem lab) are what a lot of people used to remove the earlier brz/frs thread locker. The wire brush was the most efficient thing to use in my case since none of the chemicals were making a big dent.

Thanks for the information. After 2 or 3 times under the car after jacking it up and crawling under it enough times, i'm letting the shop figure it out. Plus I'll let them add the new transmission fluid and try to get the mid pipe put in, The Tanabe did not line up well when I tried to get it on but using a lift would be much easier.

I spent a few hours under the car myself with this exact same problem. Had cleared out the thread locker as well, but for the life of me couldn't get it to align correctly. Just took the thing to the dealership and had them do it. I'd rather pay the short half hour it takes to get that done than cross thread it and then have to pay a lot of money to fix it.

Conclusion to this story line. I had ended up cross threading the last thread of the bolt hole just as the bolt came out. Shop just ground down the starting point of the threading and was able to get the bolt back in. Also then had shop change out the transmission and differential fluid while it was up on the lift so I didn't have to crawl under the car anymore. So, 200 dollars to fix a 30 part mistake, but man oh man, the shifter now does not move at all when in neutral and shifts are tight and precise, well worth the price in the end.