Might also be a good idea to bring a spare ignition coil and engine code reader. I've had a CEL on track and ended up being a P351. Cyl 1 is the likely cultprit and can be done between sessions.

That doesn't happen on a 2017.

FIFY

I got -1.3 on both sides from just replacing the bolt (no swapping anything around). Works OK after several track days, given the fact that the rest of the car is stock (slow, low traction). If you want more, you have to use adjustment plates.

I got -2.3 on both sides by using two pairs of camber bolts. SPC 81305 and 81280. So it can be done without plates.

Code reader is a good idea for any OBD2 car hitting the track.

Should be able to get -2 or more with two camber bolts, well worth trying to get imho.

My friend, who owns the local alignment shop that caters to SCCA, NASA, and FARA racers, advised me not to double up on eccentrics. If I remember correctly, the instructions that came with the bolts from Whiteline said the same thing. There are lots of ways the YOU might choose to get more than -2.0 without plates, but I wouldn't...:thumbsup:

OE camber bolts aren't eccentric. ;)

The bolts he referenced are not OE

I was attempting to point out that you could get ~-3° (assuming tire/wheel clearance) on just bolts using only one eccentric. I believe the usual answer is to get the bottom eccentric, and put the bottom bolt in the top.

YMMV, etc.

The camber makes a huge difference in tire wear though, not to mention front grip.

If you drill out/slot the OE bolt holes or use aftermarket struts with slotted/oversized holes maybe.

SSC konis have larger bolt holes than OE for extra camber.

Right you are, I always forget that.

:w00t:Gotcha. :thumbsup:

I appreciate the warning! I'm definitely going to be getting alignment checked more often to be safe. From the few people I've seen on here who have done it they haven't had any issues but that doesn't mean that it's not more likely. I'm definitely taking a chance on shear failure, for sure, though I believe it to be low risk. If it fails I'll come back and suffer the embarrassment as a cautionary tale...

This is really the first I've heard of it not being recommended, though. I looked through posts on the forum and didn't find anything against it, really. As I understood it the risks are pretty minimal. Are there any reports of failures or frequent slippage running two pairs of eccentric bolts? I understand why a shop would recommend against it, but is it a risk in reality?

Doubling up on eccentrics makes the system exponentially more susceptible to slipping from load. Remember, if *one* slips, there will be a cascading shock load that will most likely result in the other also slipping.

Got back from my first track event at Palmer Motorsports Park and I'm happy to report it was a great event! I had 2 hours of total track time and about 45 laps on the 2.3 mile course. The car was incredibly communicative, planted, consistent, and the brakes and tires never fell off! There were only ~6 cars in my run group and I was able to get the point-by from a newer Mustang 5.0 that was trailered, a new Camaro ZL1, and an E46 330ci. The cars that got by me were a Cayman GT4, F80 M3 and a GT-R.

I did wear the outer shoulder of the RE-71R's out a bit so I will mount them opposite on the wheels to get another day or two out of them, but I really need more front camber. Brakes were fantastic; I went with Winmax W5's and Castrol SRF React fluid and I could hammer on them consistently from 115 on the front straight to get the speed down into turn one. I'm interested to see how much more time I can pick up from driver mod before having to alter the car some more!

Problem with NOT using camberbolts in both holes - what other option there is to get reasonable track camber if lowering/replacing with camberplates rubber topmounts/slotting current struts/changing to preslotted struts or coilovers is not considerable option? -1.5 camber of one camberbolt set while being better then stock, still is insufficient to prevent outer tire wear/getting full grip on track. -2.3 with both is better then that. With camberbolts in both holes & powerflex eccentric bushing for LCA i was able to get wished -3.
P.S.
While certainly smaller diameter (for adjustment play) camberbolts are less strong against shearing or braking off from very strong shocks vs full/larger diameter stock bolts, slipping bit can almost completely prevented by simple hack like using loctite/nail polish/paint to "glue" them in/greatly reducing chance for them to move. Another hint one can use - paint stripe over bolt & strut. Easy to notice if it had moved.

That said, is there a consensus on the best camber plates for actual track use? I read through a lot of threads and I did not pick up on what the best was. Kind of expected Vorschlag's to be mentioned more given the amount of work they put into developing them, but the forum seems to have ignored them. Unless my searching skills just suck...

Basic searches are not always rewarded on the site, some people say your chances are better on google using the part/vehicle with the forum name. :)

I have Vorshlag front plates, the first set started making noise quickly with no more than 1 track day, if any. My installer rechecked the install and returned them. He had a mild argument with Vor. about installation but they replaced the bearings and returned them quickly. He's still a big fan of Vorshlag, the shop does a lot of track day/endurance event builds. I've had them now for probably 5K+ miles and 6 track days and all is good.

I'm at stock height tho on the performance package with the Sachs dampers and the camber maxed out at -2.4. Unrelated to camber plates, but my installer noticed on the last pre-HPDE inspection a week ago that one of the shock spindles (front left) is a tiny bit loose, presumably from loading on-track. (May end up with coilovers, Ohlins for example have much beefier spindles.)

Another member here has a BRZ track car and he's getting good service out of Raceseng front plates.

Raceseng usually gets the vote from what I've seen.

What club did you run with?

I'm running at Palmer next weekend for the first time in my BRZ (have a different dedicated track car). I absolutely love that track.

Did you run CW or CCW? Did you keep track of lap times?

Can't wait to get out there with the BRZ. I ran an event earlier this year at NHMS with the BRZ and was very impressed with the chassis.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

Sorry, way late to the party here! There was no sanctioning body; Palmer put the event on. Ran CCW, my best lap time from what I recorded on my last session (not my best, but I kinda forgot my car had a lap timer until then) was 1:58"66

Signed up for SCCA Track Night at Lime Rock Park tomorrow; been my dream to get out on the track there ever since I started spectating at American Le Mans Series back in 2006. Finally going to make it out on track there, and not a moment too soon because I move to Colorado Springs in less than two weeks! Looks like my new home track will be Pike's Peak International Raceway :) If any other southern CO owners are on here, gimme a shout!

Congrats on the first track day! Fun car, isn’t it?

I got the SPC front camber bolts to help with wear on the front outside corners and it fixed that problem on the stock tires, but kinda created another one; the car is very oversteer prone now. Lift-off oversteer and throttle induced oversteer are very real things now, which are hurting confidence a little bit. I have -1.5 degrees of camber with the bolts maxed out. -1.9 is possible if you move the lower bolts to the upper holes and use the SPC bolts in the lower hole.

The car was brilliant at Lime Rock; I'm trying to get a hold of pictures! I signed up for the intermediate group (novice, intermediate, advanced) and was pleasantly surprised to find myself getting the point-by from just about the entire field! My only gripe about the Track Night event was that it was over too soon! My fastest lap logged was 1'07"86 which is by no means fast but I feel it was pretty good for my expectations

Posting here as this may be the right place for the PP cars. I have a set of Performance Friction race pads (f/r) used to bed the brakes and car was sold (for a friend). Will let it go cheap, if it benefits anyone; PM me. Thx.

Lutfy

Moved out to Colorado Springs at the beginning of the month; got my first lapping day out here at High Plains Raceway with SCCA Track Night! I could use more power at this altitude, less rear camber and more front camber but I still managed to put the squeeze on most of the cars in my run group, notable exceptions being an F82 M3, 997.2 C2S, and a 240Z BRE Tribute car. Still having tons of fun! I forgot to use the lap timer and camera, which was an afterthought. Put a wheel off on turn six a few times getting overzealous chasing some cars but otherwise a drama-free day! Looking forward to going back and trying Pueblo and PPIR soon :)

Open lapping day at Pueblo Motorsports Park tomorrow; next mod is an oil cooler and then I want to do some research on a catted equal length header, intake setup and a good flex fuel setup; it would be nice to get back to making acceptable power levels. Forced induction won't be in the cards as I'd rather just buy a faster car than spend $5-10k+ on a turbo or s/c setup; Alfa 4C's are dipping into the low $40k range and in another year I bet they'll be in the high $30's!

I'm of the same opinion regarding how to get more power out of our cars, trying to keep under the line between enhancement and re-engineering. I've spent around $3500 on CSG's NA Power Pkg (you could reduce that total by skipping the exhaust if you like since it doesn't provide power by itself and buy something used) and a Delicious Flex Fuel module- it's been great working with Delicious on dialing in the tune, amazing customer service and experience. Completely changes the power delivery in the car to linear, doesn't overwhelm the chassis (not willing to go to good coilovers) and makes the car much more fun in any situation, street or track.

It makes good sounds too! :)

I'd agree with that. I don't keep much of anything in my trunk, so I often drop the rear seat back to hear it a little better. And I really like how the tailpipes fill the bumper cutouts :thumbsup:

The track day at Pueblo was absolutely fantastic; there were only 9 or 10 cars there all day so it was practically like having a private event. I beat up on a 600hp supercharged Camaro 1LE, a 328i track car and a 400hp TPC turbo'd Cayman, and got to pass a 2019 Z06 that someone just bought :)


I've since added a P&L Motorsports catted equal length header with ceramic coating and am trying to plan for what modifications to complete for next season. Unfortunately, I wiped out my tires at the last event because I didn't have enough negative camber up front, so front camber is a must; I'm looking at Verus Engineering camber plates to handle that duty. I also broke a couple wheel studs up front (too much heat I'm guessing) so ARP studs will be coming along with chromoly lug nuts. Oil cooler is also a must as my temps were getting too high, forcing me to take cool-down laps and take breaks over the course of the 8hr day. Beyond that, a 2.5" overpipe, intake and E85 conversion/tune will round out the power mods for the car and I may opt for a set of Enkei RPF1's to reduce unsprung weight and allow me to carry two sets of tires to the track. Might get some RCE yellow springs to lower ride height though that's more for aesthetics than anything.


Depending on how next year goes, I may decide to upgrade some more things the following year, or may part company with the car if I can find the right Alfa 4C or 997.2 911. We shall see!

How one can break several wheel studs just from tracking in just one trackday? There was something else wrong imho, then high temps from tires/brakes. My guess - overtightened or not tightened lugnuts, when changing to/from track tire wheel set. And yes, more camber will even out tire wear. I'd get also camberbolts though in addition to camplates, as just camberbolts or just camplates might be insufficient for optimum track camber of -3 and up. +rear LCAs to up camber in rear too.

Subaru makes their lug nuts out of putty; several owners have reported issues with stripped lug nuts and broken studs; mostly only on the front axle. I always hand-thread lug nuts before using the impact wrench on them and then torque and double-torque to spec after any tire changes since I work in a large retail tire shop; it's just second nature. My guess is because I tried removing the wheels shortly after coming off the track, the heat from the brakes may have expanded the metal causing issues.


I have camber bolts and rear LCA's currently; unfortunately I can only get about -1 degree in the front with just bolts so plates up front need to come next.

Turbowned: at stock height with camberbolts in both holes (eg. SPC 81305+Whiteline KCA416) you should be able to get ~ -2.3. Lowered ~ -2.5. For more one needs slotted struts or extra camber at topmounts too (camberplates or offset topmounts, or offset lca bushings), as optimum track front camber imho might be some -3 to -3.5, depending on tires, ideally dialed with help of pyrometer.

Broken studs are very common on the 86. The most common failure mode is galling of the threads initiated by a thread defect, which then welds the nut to the stud. APR studs and aftermarket lugs are the popular fix.

If you bump the wheel against your studs too hard, you can damage the threads on your studs enough to start them galling. Power tools and heat exacerbate the situation. If you can't easily spin the lugs with your fingers, you will likely soon have problems, unless you get new lugnut and clean the stud threads w/ a thread die or 60deg file.

I have dealt a lot with galling in my day job. Using dissimilar materials or coatings are the most common way to address it. More info here:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galling

I had the same problem with my WRX - stripped/broke at least one stud every track day. The nuts are garbage and the part numbers for the nuts and studs are the same on the BRZ. When I got mine, the first mod I made was the ARP studs and aftermarket steel nuts. Torqued to spec every single time, btw.

Late reply here, but I’m really surprised your car seems oversteer prone with -1.5 front camber and nothing else. Mine is set to -1.7 and isn’t like that in the least in lift throttle situations. Also, one of the things I work hardest on is getting to full throttle as early as possible and I don’t sense I’m anywhere near throttle induced oversteer regardless of corner speed or grip level. I plan to add camber plates and if it still isn’t perceptible looser, a heavier rear sway bar.