IRP short shifter rattle fix
 

Very simple fix but may need regular replacement.
1. Remove the shifter trim and boot.
2. Locate this part, which is the “cable stop” for the reverse lock out and apply insulation. I used felt covered vinyl cut to size.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psytzyucgr.jpg

3. Stuff the cavity of the center console. Add up to what you feel is enough and still able to return the shifter trim and boot.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psi3m5gjw1.jpg

My first attempt shifted the rattle to 5k rpm. After adding a little more foam I achieved significant reduction. Very minimal rattle to none at all. I also installed the free anti rattle kit but that alone was of little or no help for me.

Disclaimer: not guaranteeing anything and proceed at your own risk

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...pswa5kjghv.jpg

IRP RATTLE FIX
 

[ame="http://youtu.be/PSp4URdI7gY"]https://youtu.be/PSp4URdI7gY[/ame]

I don’t have the Individual Racing Parts shifter, but have always been interested in it. The issue with rattling was definitely a negative, so I appreciate your post and video. Overall, what are your thoughts on the product and would you recommend it?

I've had the IPR shifter for almost a year and I don't regret getting it. Design is simple and functional. Build quality is top notch and this is very tangible with ever shift. The shifter lifts the car to another level and I can't imagine going back to the stock shifter for our platform. When it was new, it felt strange using such a tall shifter but it made reaching the shifter easier/faster. Gear engagement, without exaggeration, is bolt action. A friend equated it to a gated shifter.

When it was new the rattle was not an issue. The rattle came out after about 3 months and was present at 3000 to 4000 rpm. NVH definitely increased; road noise, drive shaft and the rattle because installing the IRP required removing all of the insulation of the stock shifter leaving an (almost) open hole in the cabin.

From stand still, 1st and 2nd gear can be difficult to engage but I think it will be solved after some adjustment (pic: part marked red).

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psb4ggvmyc.jpg

The shifter can get warm with regular driving and more so when car is parked under the sun. It does cool down quickly and has never been too hot to use.

Will I recommend it ? Definitely

The only thing I regret is getting it right away because the newer one with the reverse lock out button would probably match my current interior better. As is, I'm still very happy.

How hot does it get where you live? Here it commonly goes above 100F in the summer, and our summers are long

It's almost perpetual summer here and 90-100F is the afternoon temp range. We can hit around 104 but not often.

good to know

If i had this shifter, and the rattle was coming from shaking of the entire assembly then I would probably drill some holes and add some lateral springs.

Yes that might help but I have observed that these 3 parts are the ones causing the rattle. Adding sound insulation around these seem to be the solution.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psuiulqjsu.jpg

That makes sense.

I've had this shifter for about 4 months. I've got the same buzzing sound also. Today I took it apart after I saw this and found that the 4 allen screws that hold the base to the shifter had come loose. I put some lock tight on them. It seemed to make it quiet it down a bit. But I drove it without the center console in and held onto things as it was making the sound and mine is definitely coming from the button. But even holding the button does not make it go away.

Try to add insulation, like what I have

Any update on this topic everyone? I love my shifter and I can never go back but this rattling issue, after doing everything that everyone suggested including insulation, still there above 4k rpm, at least 30% of it...

I’m very interested in one also, but not if it rattles.